look on ebay for the decals for the tank, most will be after market reproduction decals, or you may even luck out, and find a NOS set ?.Guys, I really appreciate all the input on this.
I've weighed the benefits and the costs and decided..................FULL resto on the TRX300.
All needs parts are available and relatively in expensive. I've got the skillz and the tools, just need a proper work space.
I'm going build a special table to get this thing off the ground to make the work easier. Will build it out of 2x6 boards and a sheet of 1/2 plywood. It will be easy enough get ATVs on it because it will only be 2.5 or 3' high.
It was originally red but I like the green. Going to shoot the tank with a nice forest green gloss enamel.
Will shoot the racks, frame, etc a nice gloss black.
Now the only thing I didn't see a source was for reproduction OEM decals for it. Mainly the "HONDA FOURTRAX" decal for the sides of the fuel tank.
Anyone got a source for that kind of thing?
I would remove the top end anyway for an inspection and rebuild. After all the work of restoring this classic it would run 20 more years if rebuilt. Good luck and keep us informed!the fuel tank can be lined , many threads and post on it , don't run the engine off a funky tank , you will just clog the carb up ---------- I use a hospital IV stand with a plastic fuel bottle , valve and hose to run the engine with the tank off the bike ------------ a good thing to do before you do anything would be a compression test , it will tell you where you are going and if you want to go there
I pulled the tank for a close inspection. There was about 2 pints of nasty gasoline in it.I would remove the top end anyway for an inspection and rebuild. After all the work of restoring this classic it would run 20 more years if rebuilt. Good luck and keep us informed!the fuel tank can be lined , many threads and post on it , don't run the engine off a funky tank , you will just clog the carb up ---------- I use a hospital IV stand with a plastic fuel bottle , valve and hose to run the engine with the tank off the bike ------------ a good thing to do before you do anything would be a compression test , it will tell you where you are going and if you want to go there
They the tank appears to be in good enough shape shouldn't need to get it lined. Gas has a certain smell when it is full of water. This gas was just stale. From peering down the filler neck with a flash light, didn't see any rust, but I could hear something rattling around inside. I'm just assuming it is scale but heck, could be a diamond ring for all I know.Good deal with the tank , personally if there was any rust in the tank I would line it myself or get it lined at a shop , at least put a inline filter on the gas line , one piece of scale is all it will take to stick the float and cause an overflow problem and could fill the crankcase with gas --------
I like your tractor , looks good , only thing that would scare me is the A-C decal , I know when I work on equipment every time I see that decal it is a disaster getting parts , I think it was Fiat that took them over in the 80's and it became Fiat Allis or such , so that must be from the 70's
Like you choice of trucks , I got 2 Dodges
Well, I paid $3500 for it and it is in great shape over all considering it's age. The only real issue I've found is a slow axle seal leak in the rear.Did someone say tractor?
So A-C in the 70's merged or formed a partnership with Fiat for it's construction machinery, their ag division was unaffected by this and continued on as simply Allis Chalmers right up until the mid 80's, when the company was sold to the same company that owned Deutz-Fahr, they ditched the orange paint and re-named the tractors Deutz-Allis. Then in the early 1990's Allis was sold off and AGCO was formed (Allis Gleaner Corporation) AGCO brought back the orange paint and sold AGCO Allis tractors up until 2001, when they ditched the Allis name and just called the models AGCO, the orange paint would disappear completely a few years later when AGCO stopped selling their AGCO tractors and focused on their other brands, which include Massey, Fendt, Challenger, and Valtra. As far as getting parts for the A-C farm equipment it shouldn't be super difficult, any AGCO dealer will be able to get them, regardless of what brand they sell. We have a AGCO White, another now defunct brand AGCO owns, we just buy parts from our Massey dealer as if we were ordering for any Massey we have.
As far as that little 5020, they are similar to the Massey 210, aside from the hood and paint obviously. There was a couple companies bringing in these tractors in from Japan at the time. Simplicity had their version too, although I believe A-C owned simplicity at that time. These little tractors are tough, fairly primitive, but tough. I have a buddy with a 2wd 205 Massey which would be a little smaller than your 5020, that thing looks like it's been through a war or two but they use it for cleaning out their cow barn to this day. I was looking at buying a 210-4 which is identical to yours but it had some issues I'm not sure if I want to deal with. Parts for these things are next to non-existent. The only chance you have basically as finding some that are being parted out, there is some stuff available but I still haven't decided if it's worth buying or not. The guy wants $2500 cad for it, and it has a loader on it. It's not going anywhere in a hurry so I'll just keep thinking about it I guess.
Hope you have good luck with your A-C, try not to break anything lol
drill a 1/8 hole down the middle of the enrichment valve, run a sheet metal screw down in it, yank it out with some vise grips and some wd-40 ( or what ever you use for lube ? ), that valve will come out . don't waste your cash on a 50 dollar carb, not worth it.I ordered a carb kit last week so I planned to have the carb built and reinstalled this weekend. I ended up breaking the end of the choke cable off in the carb trying to remove it. I put the carb on the bench and removed the covers. I've never seen a carb so gummed up and caked with varnish. I started removing jets, and looking at everything closely and realized the carb was junk. I failed to get the broken off end of the choke cable out now matter how I tried. I can get a replacement carb for $50 so I'm done with it. I'm good with carburetors but I'm not polishing that turd.
yep, sucks getting old, I miss my 20's !..lol. get well .Tried soaking the seized choke valve with PB breaker and then tried budging it with a pointed tool to get it to move so I could extract it needle nose pliers. No dice. I didn't take any pix but the amount of varnish and trash in the carb was beyond belief. I've learned from years of rebuilding carbs (both small engine and cars), a carb has to be good condition for a rebuild to make it a good working carb again. That one was junk.
I also planned on running a compression test yesterday but to add injury to insult I tripped in the garage and tweaked my knee
Need to stay off of it for a while till the pain is tolerable. It sucks getting old.