[mac102004]

300 diff will last a long time if you use quality components to rebuild it and keep the mud and water out of it. Plus they are getting harder to find now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[_Wilson_]

Question, which has a larger diameter axle shaft and bearings ? 300, 350d or trx 250 ? (Curious)

 

[fishfiles]

the 300 has the biggest diameter axle shaft than the 250/350 , the reason I think it needs to be bigger is because it is unsupported on the ends , the 300 has a bigger outer diameter bearing but it is much narrower in width and uses only one bearing as compared to a wider bearing and double stacked bearings on the 250 and 350 , which both take the same exact bearings and have the small "diameter" axle shaft ------------------------------------- I don't have the exact measurements in front of me but would guess from seeing it many times the 300 bearing is about 3/4 inch wide or less and the 2 250/350 bearings together are about 3 inches wide and are at the end of axle tubes so the axle is supported on the ends

 

[DrRighteous]

Guys, I really appreciate all the input on this.
I've weighed the benefits and the costs and decided..................FULL resto on the TRX300.
All needs parts are available and relatively in expensive. I've got the skillz and the tools, just need a proper work space.

I'm going build a special table to get this thing off the ground to make the work easier. Will build it out of 2x6 boards and a sheet of 1/2 plywood. It will be easy enough get ATVs on it because it will only be 2.5 or 3' high.
It was originally red but I like the green. Going to shoot the tank with a nice forest green gloss enamel.
Will shoot the racks, frame, etc a nice gloss black.
Now the only thing I didn't see a source was for reproduction OEM decals for it. Mainly the "HONDA FOURTRAX" decal for the sides of the fuel tank.
Anyone got a source for that kind of thing?

 

[shadetree]

Guys, I really appreciate all the input on this.
I've weighed the benefits and the costs and decided..................FULL resto on the TRX300.
All needs parts are available and relatively in expensive. I've got the skillz and the tools, just need a proper work space.

I'm going build a special table to get this thing off the ground to make the work easier. Will build it out of 2x6 boards and a sheet of 1/2 plywood. It will be easy enough get ATVs on it because it will only be 2.5 or 3' high.
It was originally red but I like the green. Going to shoot the tank with a nice forest green gloss enamel.
Will shoot the racks, frame, etc a nice gloss black.
Now the only thing I didn't see a source was for reproduction OEM decals for it. Mainly the "HONDA FOURTRAX" decal for the sides of the fuel tank.
Anyone got a source for that kind of thing?

look on ebay for the decals for the tank, most will be after market reproduction decals, or you may even luck out, and find a NOS set ?.

 

[DrRighteous]

HI Guys,
Been a couple months and have been slammed busy with typical new homeowner issues. I've not had much time to work on the TRX300. Just did some basic electrical troubleshooting. Battery was shot of course, and I found the start solenoid was bad. Got replacements for those but not installed yet. I finally got the project table done. (pix attached)
It measures 47" x 71" x 31" I built it to work with my height (6'4") so that is why it is 31" high. The W and L was easy to come up with. I just measured the dimensions of the TRX300.
All the materials except the sheet of plywood and the wood screws I had left over from other projects so the money invested was minimal. I'm probably going put some high build poly on it just for easy clean up. But this is a shop table not furniture, nothing too fancy.

 

[DrRighteous]

I was able to get a little work done on the 4Trax this weekend. I loaded it up on the work table and removed the plastic cladding.
3 words. Beat up, rusty.
This ATV came from Florida and anything near the beach can get pretty rusty.
The plastic cladding is in OK shape, but lots of cracks that need to be fixed. The inner fender pieces are destroyed, will have to be replaced.
Some of the wiring is a cobbled together mess, but it is fixable. But over all being as old as it is, would have to it could be worse.
The fuel tank appears to be pretty gummed up so I have not tried to start it yet. I'm going to fix the wiring, put the new battery and solenoid on it and see if the starts will turn it over. Will pull the plug and squirt some Marvels MM into the plug oil in case the rings might be sticking.
Will see what happens.

 

[fishfiles]

the fuel tank can be lined , many threads and post on it , don't run the engine off a funky tank , you will just clog the carb up ---------- I use a hospital IV stand with a plastic fuel bottle , valve and hose to run the engine with the tank off the bike ------------ a good thing to do before you do anything would be a compression test , it will tell you where you are going and if you want to go there

 

[misterclean59]

the fuel tank can be lined , many threads and post on it , don't run the engine off a funky tank , you will just clog the carb up ---------- I use a hospital IV stand with a plastic fuel bottle , valve and hose to run the engine with the tank off the bike ------------ a good thing to do before you do anything would be a compression test , it will tell you where you are going and if you want to go there

I would remove the top end anyway for an inspection and rebuild. After all the work of restoring this classic it would run 20 more years if rebuilt. Good luck and keep us informed!

 

[DrRighteous]

the fuel tank can be lined , many threads and post on it , don't run the engine off a funky tank , you will just clog the carb up ---------- I use a hospital IV stand with a plastic fuel bottle , valve and hose to run the engine with the tank off the bike ------------ a good thing to do before you do anything would be a compression test , it will tell you where you are going and if you want to go there

I would remove the top end anyway for an inspection and rebuild. After all the work of restoring this classic it would run 20 more years if rebuilt. Good luck and keep us informed!

I pulled the tank for a close inspection. There was about 2 pints of nasty gasoline in it.
But over all the tank is in nice shape. No dents, no rusts externally. There may be some rust scale inside,but will get it cleaned up.
I pulled the valve at the bottom and emptied all the rancid gas. Replaced the valve and filled it up with a strong detergent cleaner/water mix. Letting it sit for a few days.
This should dissolve the gum and goo. I will run a small magnet retriever wand down into the crevices of the tank to pick up any scale.

In the mean time I picked up another goodie. I needed a small tractor to clean up and clear around my property. I found a killer deal on a little 4x4 diesel, had to grab it. Runs and works like new but has a few dents here and there and some some minor rust on the cowl. It will be dang nice when it is fixed and painted. :wink

 

[fishfiles]

Good deal with the tank , personally if there was any rust in the tank I would line it myself or get it lined at a shop , at least put a inline filter on the gas line , one piece of scale is all it will take to stick the float and cause an overflow problem and could fill the crankcase with gas --------

I like your tractor , looks good , only thing that would scare me is the A-C decal , I know when I work on equipment every time I see that decal it is a disaster getting parts , I think it was Fiat that took them over in the 80's and it became Fiat Allis or such , so that must be from the 70's

Like you choice of trucks , I got 2 Dodges

 

[DrRighteous]

Good deal with the tank , personally if there was any rust in the tank I would line it myself or get it lined at a shop , at least put a inline filter on the gas line , one piece of scale is all it will take to stick the float and cause an overflow problem and could fill the crankcase with gas --------

I like your tractor , looks good , only thing that would scare me is the A-C decal , I know when I work on equipment every time I see that decal it is a disaster getting parts , I think it was Fiat that took them over in the 80's and it became Fiat Allis or such , so that must be from the 70's

Like you choice of trucks , I got 2 Dodges

They the tank appears to be in good enough shape shouldn't need to get it lined. Gas has a certain smell when it is full of water. This gas was just stale. From peering down the filler neck with a flash light, didn't see any rust, but I could hear something rattling around inside. I'm just assuming it is scale but heck, could be a diamond ring for all I know.
Did some homework on the tractor before I bought it. It is actually a HINO, made in Japan. This was one of the better Japanese tractor manufacturers of the time.
Yeah, that Ram truck is my baby. That being the case you would think I would wash it occasionally. LOL! But also I have a 85 Ramcharger, a '99 Durango and a '72 Plymouth Satellite (in storage). I'm planning on building a pretty good size shop building before I bring it home. :grin

 

[mac102004]

Did someone say tractor?

So A-C in the 70's merged or formed a partnership with Fiat for it's construction machinery, their ag division was unaffected by this and continued on as simply Allis Chalmers right up until the mid 80's, when the company was sold to the same company that owned Deutz-Fahr, they ditched the orange paint and re-named the tractors Deutz-Allis. Then in the early 1990's Allis was sold off and AGCO was formed (Allis Gleaner Corportaion) AGCO brought back the orange paint and sold AGCO Allis tractors up until 2001, when they ditched the Allis name and just called the models AGCO, the orange paint would disappear completely a few years later when AGCO stopped selling their AGCO tractors and focused on their other brands, which include Massey, Fendt, Challenger, and Valtra. As far as getting parts for the A-C farm equipment it shouldn't be super difficult, any AGCO dealer will be able to get them, regardless of what brand they sell. We have a AGCO White, another now defunct brand AGCO owns, we just buy parts from our Massey dealer as if we were ordering for any Massey we have.

As far as that little 5020, they are similar to the Massey 210, aside from the hood and paint obviosly. There was a couple companies bringing in these tractors in from Japan at the time. Simplicity had their version too, although I beilve A-C owned simplicity at that time. These little tractors are tough, fairly primitive, but tough. I have a buddy with a 2wd 205 Massey which would be a little smaller than your 5020, that thing looks like it's been through a war or two but they use it for cleaning out their cow barn to this day. I was looking at buying a 210-4 which is identical to yours but it had some issues I'm not sure if I want to deal with. Parts for these things are next to non-existant. The only chance you have basically as finding some that are being parted out, there is some stuff available but I still haven't decided if it's worth buying or not. The guy wants $2500 cad for it, and it has a loader on it. It's not going anywhere in a hurry so I'll just keep thinking about it I guess.
Hope you have good luck with your A-C, try not to break anything lol

 

[fishfiles]

go ahead Mac you know them tractors ---

 

[DrRighteous]

Did someone say tractor?

So A-C in the 70's merged or formed a partnership with Fiat for it's construction machinery, their ag division was unaffected by this and continued on as simply Allis Chalmers right up until the mid 80's, when the company was sold to the same company that owned Deutz-Fahr, they ditched the orange paint and re-named the tractors Deutz-Allis. Then in the early 1990's Allis was sold off and AGCO was formed (Allis Gleaner Corporation) AGCO brought back the orange paint and sold AGCO Allis tractors up until 2001, when they ditched the Allis name and just called the models AGCO, the orange paint would disappear completely a few years later when AGCO stopped selling their AGCO tractors and focused on their other brands, which include Massey, Fendt, Challenger, and Valtra. As far as getting parts for the A-C farm equipment it shouldn't be super difficult, any AGCO dealer will be able to get them, regardless of what brand they sell. We have a AGCO White, another now defunct brand AGCO owns, we just buy parts from our Massey dealer as if we were ordering for any Massey we have.

As far as that little 5020, they are similar to the Massey 210, aside from the hood and paint obviously. There was a couple companies bringing in these tractors in from Japan at the time. Simplicity had their version too, although I believe A-C owned simplicity at that time. These little tractors are tough, fairly primitive, but tough. I have a buddy with a 2wd 205 Massey which would be a little smaller than your 5020, that thing looks like it's been through a war or two but they use it for cleaning out their cow barn to this day. I was looking at buying a 210-4 which is identical to yours but it had some issues I'm not sure if I want to deal with. Parts for these things are next to non-existent. The only chance you have basically as finding some that are being parted out, there is some stuff available but I still haven't decided if it's worth buying or not. The guy wants $2500 cad for it, and it has a loader on it. It's not going anywhere in a hurry so I'll just keep thinking about it I guess.
Hope you have good luck with your A-C, try not to break anything lol

Well, I paid $3500 for it and it is in great shape over all considering it's age. The only real issue I've found is a slow axle seal leak in the rear.
The seller told me right before I called he talked to a dealer that wanted it. He was going to sell it to the dealer but he knew the dealer was just looking to line his pockets. I told him over the phone I'm clearing and cleaning the woods up on the property we just bought I wasn't of the pioneer stock that would have done it all by hand; wanted a small tractor.
That gave him a chuckle, and a good deal for me.


Ok, I'm done bragging about my tractor buy. Will get back to the Honda next. :wink

 

[DrRighteous]

I ordered a carb kit last week so I planned to have the carb built and reinstalled this weekend. I ended up breaking the end of the choke cable off in the carb trying to remove it. I put the carb on the bench and removed the covers. I've never seen a carb so gummed up and caked with varnish. I started removing jets, and looking at everything closely and realized the carb was junk. I failed to get the broken off end of the choke cable out now matter how I tried. I can get a replacement carb for $50 so I'm done with it. I'm good with carburetors but I'm not polishing that turd.

 

[shadetree]

I ordered a carb kit last week so I planned to have the carb built and reinstalled this weekend. I ended up breaking the end of the choke cable off in the carb trying to remove it. I put the carb on the bench and removed the covers. I've never seen a carb so gummed up and caked with varnish. I started removing jets, and looking at everything closely and realized the carb was junk. I failed to get the broken off end of the choke cable out now matter how I tried. I can get a replacement carb for $50 so I'm done with it. I'm good with carburetors but I'm not polishing that turd.

drill a 1/8 hole down the middle of the enrichment valve, run a sheet metal screw down in it, yank it out with some vise grips and some wd-40 ( or what ever you use for lube ? ), that valve will come out . don't waste your cash on a 50 dollar carb, not worth it.

 

[DrRighteous]

Tried soaking the seized choke valve with PB breaker and then tried budging it with a pointed tool to get it to move so I could extract it needle nose pliers. No dice. I didn't take any pix but the amount of varnish and trash in the carb was beyond belief. I've learned from years of rebuilding carbs (both small engine and cars), a carb has to be good condition for a rebuild to make it a good working carb again. That one was junk.
I also planned on running a compression test yesterday but to add injury to insult I tripped in the garage and tweaked my knee
Need to stay off of it for a while till the pain is tolerable. It sucks getting old.

 

[shadetree]

Tried soaking the seized choke valve with PB breaker and then tried budging it with a pointed tool to get it to move so I could extract it needle nose pliers. No dice. I didn't take any pix but the amount of varnish and trash in the carb was beyond belief. I've learned from years of rebuilding carbs (both small engine and cars), a carb has to be good condition for a rebuild to make it a good working carb again. That one was junk.
I also planned on running a compression test yesterday but to add injury to insult I tripped in the garage and tweaked my knee
Need to stay off of it for a while till the pain is tolerable. It sucks getting old.

yep, sucks getting old, I miss my 20's !..lol. get well .

 

[DrRighteous]

Well, it runs.
Here is a pix of the TRX300 in critical condition in the ICU.

Since the cladding was off I had to have the battery, solenoid etc hooked up off to the side.

New carb, starter, battery, spark plug, coil pack, choke cable ,fresh oil and filter. Once the carb primed it started and ran nice. Unfortunately it smokes quite a bit when you open the throttle. When restarting, it starts immediately. The top end of the engine is making a loud clicking/clattering noise. Sounds like it is starved for oil. I removed the oiler tube on the right side of the engine and made sure it was clear as well as the 2 bolts. I cranked it over with the coil wire pulled and confirmed it was shooting oil in the tube. All good, still the noise is the problem along with the smoke. I never did do the compression test, I couldn't find my adapter for the small size plug hole.
What else did I notice: The exhaust is shot, full of holes. What do you think? Should I count on having to rebuild the engine? :sad