it's not oem ?, but for what all you get ?, it's a solid buy in my book if your hurting for cash ?, I've used them in the past, they are pretty good !. comes with everything you need to rebuild the rear differential, and you get the tool !. their shipping is fast too !.Excellent. That beats the price I'm seeing for just the ring and pinion from parts vendors.try this on for size, works good for after market, I've used them in the past, they are pretty good, and have the tool you need to remove the pinion gear . NEW Honda TRX300 300 Fourtrax Rear Differential Ring Pinion Gear Plus Kit 88-00 | eBay .
That includes the seals, bearings and tool.
the blue gloves when cman first joined the site here, he's afraid of grease under his finger nails I guess ?..lmfao. as for the yellow ?..I fear yellow..can't stand the color..lol. oh, and thanks for the kind words bro .Blue gloves ? And yellow plastic ? I wont even ask......
Yeah good point Cman , check out shades skill!
look on ebay for the decals for the tank, most will be after market reproduction decals, or you may even luck out, and find a NOS set ?.Guys, I really appreciate all the input on this.
I've weighed the benefits and the costs and decided..................FULL resto on the TRX300.
All needs parts are available and relatively in expensive. I've got the skillz and the tools, just need a proper work space.
I'm going build a special table to get this thing off the ground to make the work easier. Will build it out of 2x6 boards and a sheet of 1/2 plywood. It will be easy enough get ATVs on it because it will only be 2.5 or 3' high.
It was originally red but I like the green. Going to shoot the tank with a nice forest green gloss enamel.
Will shoot the racks, frame, etc a nice gloss black.
Now the only thing I didn't see a source was for reproduction OEM decals for it. Mainly the "HONDA FOURTRAX" decal for the sides of the fuel tank.
Anyone got a source for that kind of thing?
drill a 1/8 hole down the middle of the enrichment valve, run a sheet metal screw down in it, yank it out with some vise grips and some wd-40 ( or what ever you use for lube ? ), that valve will come out . don't waste your cash on a 50 dollar carb, not worth it.I ordered a carb kit last week so I planned to have the carb built and reinstalled this weekend. I ended up breaking the end of the choke cable off in the carb trying to remove it. I put the carb on the bench and removed the covers. I've never seen a carb so gummed up and caked with varnish. I started removing jets, and looking at everything closely and realized the carb was junk. I failed to get the broken off end of the choke cable out now matter how I tried. I can get a replacement carb for $50 so I'm done with it. I'm good with carburetors but I'm not polishing that turd.
yep, sucks getting old, I miss my 20's !..lol. get well .Tried soaking the seized choke valve with PB breaker and then tried budging it with a pointed tool to get it to move so I could extract it needle nose pliers. No dice. I didn't take any pix but the amount of varnish and trash in the carb was beyond belief. I've learned from years of rebuilding carbs (both small engine and cars), a carb has to be good condition for a rebuild to make it a good working carb again. That one was junk.
I also planned on running a compression test yesterday but to add injury to insult I tripped in the garage and tweaked my knee
Need to stay off of it for a while till the pain is tolerable. It sucks getting old.