[badger]

I have just purchased a one owner 2005, honda TRX 350FM, FOURTRAX from my neighbour. Firstly i'm an old fart with very little quad experience. The bike is in mint condition, just beautifull. It runs and drives really well.

PROBLEM. I have a lot of difficulty moving up through the gears, back off the throtle and lift the pedal but it just wont engage, have to really slow down. Just had tyres fitted and the guy in the shop had no problem, previous owner did'nt have a problem but his wife and daughter do. Is it just a knack or, as ive been told a typical honda thing with this model. I'd appreciate any advise on how to fix the problem

Thanks
John

 

[69quadracer]

Welcome to the forums! don't knoe much about the 350 fourtrax but someone will be along soon that does

 

[tomgodd]

Welcome to the Family!
IMO all clutchless shift models are a little difficult to shift. They seem to need alittle more force to shift.

 

[Helmut]

Welcome to the forums. I would try adjusting the clutch free play and see if that helps.

 

[Helmut]

Welcome to the Family!
IMO all clutchless shift models are a little difficult to shift. They seem to need alittle more force to shift.

I have gotten use to shifting them and don't really pay any attention, but they probably are slightly harder to shift because the shifter not only changes the gear, but it also disengages the clutches at the same time.

 

[mud99]

Looks like some good advice. Welcome to the forums.

 

[badger]

Thanks for the help, unfortunately I think perhaps the friction discs maybe worn

1. I loosened the lock nut, and turned the adjuster screw counter clockwise. This is the same direction the lock nut comes undone, turning toward the oil dip stick. Problem was the adjuster screw was already turned as far as it would go. I turned it clock wise and the was no resistance at all, just continued to screw in, so I rest it at the furthersest anti clock wise position.

2. I guess all this means there is no further adjustment? the bike has 1,2000 thats 7,500 miles. Do cluthches wear out in that time?

Any further suggestions appreciated

Thanks
John

 

[Helmut]

Problem was the adjuster screw was already turned as far as it would go. I turned it clock wise and the was no resistance at all, just continued to screw in, so I rest it at the furthersest anti clock wise position.

You won't really feel any resistance when turning it clockwise. Just turn it counterclockwise until you start to feel resistance. When you feel resistance, turn it clockwise for 1/4 turn and stop and tighten the locknut. Hold the adjuster screw to keep it from turning when you tighten down the locknut.

the bike has 1,2000 thats 7,500 miles. Do cluthches wear out in that time?

They could be worn out, but the mileage won't really determine how long the clutches last, it mostly depends on riding habits and how the ATV is treated. Also, if you don't use oil designed for wet clutches, the clutch will start slipping.

I think perhaps the friction discs maybe worn

If the fiction discs are worn, the clutch will be slipping. When the clutch is slipping, the engine revs higher than normal and the ATV will be moving slower than it should in relation to the engine speed. Have you noticed this?

 

[badger]

The feel of resistance is actually a dead stop, the screw will not turn any further. That is where it was locked at, maybe it backed out to far. I will set again at the quarter turn.

For a 2005 bike here off a farm that is low mileage, they average much more than that. Absolutely no slipping, serviced from new by honda dealer. And one very carefull owner. It just seems that the change lever does not want to select the gear, then I try again and it slips in. Wondering if this might be a bit of new chum syndrom, I need to get out and ride it a bit more.

Thanks for all the advise
John

 

[Helmut]

The feel of resistance is actually a dead stop, the screw will not turn any further. That is where it was locked at, maybe it backed out to far. I will set again at the quarter turn.

When the clutch free play is set right, you should be able to put the ATV in gear, while it's running. Next, hold the gear shifter all the way up and while holding it there, rev the engine and it should act like it's in neutral, but when you turn loose of the shifter it should go into gear. In other words, when you hold up on the shifter, it should be just like pulling in the clutch lever on a manual clutch ATV.

Absolutely no slipping, serviced from new by honda dealer. And one very carefull owner.

If it's not slipping, there's nothing wrong with the friction discs.

I don't know if this is your problem or not, but usually when I first buy an ATV, the foot shifter will be set too high for me and it seems like it's harder to shift that way. I like to shift by just moving my ankle, but if the shifter is set too high, you have to actually raise your whole foot up. I always take the shifter off and move it down one spline and that makes it the height that I like where I can just pivot my ankle and shift. That might not be your problem, but it makes it a lot easier for me to shift by doing that.

 

[badger]

Yes I get the feeling that the lever feels to be set to high, but it looks like if I move it down a notch it will be to low, will try anyway.

So I start my bike selct 1st gear and hold the lever up and rev the engine and the bike should act like in neutral, lower the lever and away we go, I shall try.

The worst of spending all the money you have spare on on a bike is when confronted with something like this I have nothing spare to spend with a mechanic. The darn bike runs like a dream and here I can't get it change properly, mostly 2nd and particularly 3td gear. The old owner says it was like that from day one, but he does'nt have the trouble I do

thanks
John

 

[Helmut]

Yes I get the feeling that the lever feels to be set to high, but it looks like if I move it down a notch it will be to low, will try anyway.

That's the first thing I do to every ATV that I get is to move the shifter down one spline. Be careful when you tighten the bolt that holds the shifter on as they are soft bolts and will twist off easily.

So I start my bike selct 1st gear and hold the lever up and rev the engine and the bike should act like in neutral, lower the lever and away we go, I shall try.

Yes, that's correct. If it doesn't do that, the clutch free play adjustment is set wrong.

 

[badger]

Helmut
I must be driving you nuts my friend.

Ok, I started the bike selected first gear, kept upward presure on the shifter ( as if going into 2nd) and applied revs. Nearly shot through the back wall of the shed LOL. I guess fry play aint set right.

Back to the, loosened lock nut, turned screw anti clockwise. It comes to a dead stop, not just resistance. Screwed back in 1/4 turn, held the screw whilst I locked nut. Re test back as above, still the same, not like neutral just powers away.

Thanks
John

 

[Helmut]

I must be driving you nuts my friend.

Not at all.

Ok, I started the bike selected first gear, kept upward presure on the shifter ( as if going into 2nd) and applied revs. Nearly shot through the back wall of the shed LOL. I guess fry play aint set right.

No, it's not set right.

Back to the, loosened lock nut, turned screw anti clockwise. It comes to a dead stop, not just resistance. Screwed back in 1/4 turn, held the screw whilst I locked nut. Re test back as above, still the same, not like neutral just powers away.

Try just turning the adjusting screw on in, clockwise, a little at a time and see if you can get it to the point where it's not trying to pull while the shift lever is held up. You just want to barely get it to the point where it quits pulling with the shifter held up. You don't want to turn it any further than that point or it could cause your clutch to start slipping.

 

[badger]

Well I adjusted the screw from full anti clockwise to all the way in clockwise. Made not a bit of difference the bike just kept pulling away. I am wondering if there is something missing from the internal part of the adjuster, I feel no presure at all on the screw once I have loosened the lock nut. Also tried lowering the shfter but it makes it low.

Thanks
John

 

[Helmut]

Well I adjusted the screw from full anti clockwise to all the way in clockwise. Made not a bit of difference the bike just kept pulling away. I am wondering if there is something missing from the internal part of the adjuster, I feel no presure at all on the screw once I have loosened the lock nut. Also tried lowering the shfter but it makes it low.

Thanks
John

I would say that something is wrong or missing on the inside of the engine. When you screw that adjusting screw all the way in, it should disengage the clutches. Evidently the clutches aren't disengaging and that would explain why it is hard to shift gears. It's like shifting a manual clutch ATV without pulling the clutch in.

 

[Helmut]

I would say the piece with the red arrow pointing to it, in the picture below, is missing or the piece with the yellow arrow pointing to it isn't on in time. It has to be timed on the shaft that it sits on. My guess is that the piece with the red arrow pointing to it, is missing though, because that is the piece that the adjusting screw pushes against to disengage the clutch.

 

[Helmut]

Here is a closer look at the piece that I think is probably missing. Ball retainer and spring.

 

[Helmut]

Here is the adjusting plate on the inside of the cover that the adjusting screw, screws into. You can see the 3 dimples that the balls in the ball retainer sit in. The adjusting bolt just tightens in and puts pressure on the ball retainer, which in turn, puts pressure on the lifter plate and bearing in the front of the clutch to disengage the clutch. When the shifter is pulled up, those balls in the ball retainer, ride up out of the dimples and that further pushes in on the clutch allowing the clutch to disengage. When the shifter is released, the balls return to the dimples and the clutch engages again.

 

[badger]

Thanks again, I will try and get a mechanic out to look at it, looks like a big job and I don't have a manual.

I'll let you know how things finish up

thanks
John