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Discussion Starter #1
1989 fourtrax 350
Hey guys so I am removing my head to inspect and replace timing chain, but one of the bolts is completely stuck, air ratchet won't even take it off, any help or tips would be great!
 

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Can you post a pic/or part number, of said bolt for us ?
 

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I never use air ratchet to break a bolt loose. Make sure to use a 6pt socket and a breaker handle. Pull, don't push, on the handle and very gradually build torque. Sometimes you can use penetrating oil and heat but I like to make sure the engine is dead cold.
 

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x2 on the heat and penetrating oil, like Kroil. Sometimes you can tighten first to break loose

Rob
 

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breaker bar, ive torn down more then I can count, occasionally you get a stubborn one like yours where the impact wont break it.

your gonna have to find a way to keep the engine stationary if you have the engine removed from the frame.
 

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I never use air ratchet to break a bolt loose. Make sure to use a 6pt socket and a breaker handle. Pull, don't push, on the handle and very gradually build torque. Sometimes you can use penetrating oil and heat but I like to make sure the engine is dead cold.

I would normally use one earthier but for whatever reason I couldn't brake this one loose
 

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And there's always "EDM Electric Discharge Machining" to remove the bolt if it breaks. See You Tube. Fascinating to watch.

I needed it for a head bolt on my grandson's 250ex and cost 75 bucks for the removal.

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #10
So the bolt is now stripped been working on it all day, what dose everyone think of welding a nut on the stripped one and putting a wrench on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'd like to correct myself as I guess it is not a head bolt that is stripped but the cover to the head that is stripped it is the one in the picture just to the left of the exhaust valve inspection cover
 

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Sorry I didn't understand what u described but what do they call that a cylinder head cover or rocker box cover?
I can't weld Mitch but I can drill. this one would be tough to get a drill or dremel on there. So good job sofar be cool; what resources do you have. Machine shop nearby?
Ok maybe you can weld a stem on there
 

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Unless you are experienced welding small, tight & fast... and comfortable welding right up against cast aluminum, I'd recommend you reconsider. If you are experienced, you already found the perfect sized, thick, hardened washer and are standing there thinking it through... manufacturing courage. :)
 

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Unfortunately I live in the middle of no where, no machine shop around, my last two options are to put a nut on and weld it ( I'm an okay welder) or cut the head of the bolt off and try an get some penetrating lubricant around the threads after I get the cover off, and sorry I'm not familiar with the names of the parts, I am no mechanic but I do have a lot of tools and stubbornness to keep trying lol,
 

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if you stripped the hex head I would think the bolt is seized up in the threads , unless you just didn't have a good socket and proper angle to start , sometimes I will use a dulled chisel and hammer and get the bolt to turn a bit then hammer a smaller socket or extraction tool -------- spline sockets sometimes work for me , I will hammer a smaller size onto the stripped hex head , I also use stripped bolt extractors , they are like a female ez-out , both are common tools , Sears or Napa has them ----- I wouldn't be afraid to weld a nut on top , think I might use a size smaller nut by drilling a hole thru the threads and get a tight fit before welding by hammering it on , after welding I would try to much to turn it once , don't break the nut off yet , I would try it one time and if it didn't move I 'd wait till it cooled off , welding the bolt will heat and swelling it , I'd spray Kroil or such on it while it cools as it might draw some into the threads , the heat transfer from the hot bolt to the threads may also heat break the bond , steel bolt and aluminum threads is a recipe for seizures --------
 

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if you stripped the hex head I would think the bolt is seized up in the threads , unless you just didn't have a good socket and proper angle to start , sometimes I will use a dulled chisel and hammer and get the bolt to turn a bit then hammer a smaller socket or extraction tool -------- spline sockets sometimes work for me , I will hammer a smaller size onto the stripped hex head , I also use stripped bolt extractors , they are like a female ez-out , both are common tools , Sears or Napa has them ----- I wouldn't be afraid to weld a nut on top , think I might use a size smaller nut by drilling a hole thru the threads and get a tight fit before welding by hammering it on , after welding I would try to much to turn it once , don't break the nut off yet , I would try it one time and if it didn't move I 'd wait till it cooled off , welding the bolt will heat and swelling it , I'd spray Kroil or such on it while it cools as it might draw some into the threads , the heat transfer from the hot bolt to the threads may also heat break the bond , steel bolt and aluminum threads is a recipe for seizures --------

Thanks I didn't have any old nuts laying around the shed last night so I'm going to buy one this evening, I work this weekend but if I have time tonight I'm going to give it a shot see if I can fill the nut I place on there with a weld and try an loosen it up, I'm almost off to work but might spary some pb blaster on before I leave
 

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I've never used bolt extractors never heard of them til now. This Proto set looks good. We have Proto and SnapOn at work so probably good quality but more expensive than hahbor fraight

But you need 6mm and none in this set
 

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The snap-on extractors are quite good, I have had a set for some time now and they've stood the test of time. A worthy purchase IMO.
Have you tried getting the aluminium warm around the bolt? I'd be tempted to weld the nut in place and then gently warm the casting it sits in, alloys expand quicker than steel so you may drop lucky. Just remember, (you'll know if you TIG weld) alloys melt almost without notice, don't get things to hot!
 
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They make tools for removing stripped bolts. The fact that its stuck is the issue. Well the nut on it you're just going to strip that off too. If it's a flange bolt put a socket over and wrap the snot out of it with a hammer then try and remove it. If it's a standard bolt with washers get a brass punch and whack the top of the head of the bolt. You're trying to shock it and break it free. Good luck

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

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They make tools for removing stripped bolts. The fact that its stuck is the issue. Well the nut on it you're just going to strip that off too. If it's a flange bolt put a socket over and wrap the snot out of it with a hammer then try and remove it. If it's a standard bolt with washers get a brass punch and whack the top of the head of the bolt. You're trying to shock it and break it free. Good luck

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I'm actually pretty sure I just didn't get the socket on good enough, I can turn the nut a little in the tightening direction, the hex sits right under the gram not allowing for a good fit
 
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