I never use air ratchet to break a bolt loose. Make sure to use a 6pt socket and a breaker handle. Pull, don't push, on the handle and very gradually build torque. Sometimes you can use penetrating oil and heat but I like to make sure the engine is dead cold.
if you stripped the hex head I would think the bolt is seized up in the threads , unless you just didn't have a good socket and proper angle to start , sometimes I will use a dulled chisel and hammer and get the bolt to turn a bit then hammer a smaller socket or extraction tool -------- spline sockets sometimes work for me , I will hammer a smaller size onto the stripped hex head , I also use stripped bolt extractors , they are like a female ez-out , both are common tools , Sears or Napa has them ----- I wouldn't be afraid to weld a nut on top , think I might use a size smaller nut by drilling a hole thru the threads and get a tight fit before welding by hammering it on , after welding I would try to much to turn it once , don't break the nut off yet , I would try it one time and if it didn't move I 'd wait till it cooled off , welding the bolt will heat and swelling it , I'd spray Kroil or such on it while it cools as it might draw some into the threads , the heat transfer from the hot bolt to the threads may also heat break the bond , steel bolt and aluminum threads is a recipe for seizures --------
I'm actually pretty sure I just didn't get the socket on good enough, I can turn the nut a little in the tightening direction, the hex sits right under the gram not allowing for a good fitThey make tools for removing stripped bolts. The fact that its stuck is the issue. Well the nut on it you're just going to strip that off too. If it's a flange bolt put a socket over and wrap the snot out of it with a hammer then try and remove it. If it's a standard bolt with washers get a brass punch and whack the top of the head of the bolt. You're trying to shock it and break it free. Good luck
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