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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am replacing my steering stem bearing. I got a replacement from boss bearing and the instructions say that it is grease with the exact amount of grease and not to remove the seals and add any grease. What do you guys think? Flush the grease and add more? What type of grease?

Also, what type of grease is everyone using in general for:

Wheel bearings
Cv axles
Swing arm

Lots of different grease out there and I want to make sure I am using something compatible and long lasting with good protection

8,309 Posts
my guess is there telling you this, due to some folks peel seals back and damage them in the process, and then when bearings fail shortly, they complain to company
so they not say don't do that!

ME personally, when I get new bearings, I CHECK< found and seen and heard of way too many being almost dry from factory!
if I can get seal off safely, I take it off and FILL with grease
there SPEC of HOW Much grease is in them, I doubt is for the LONGEST life, there in business to sell more!
its your call, if you can get cover/seal off to CHECK and make sure there IS grease in there and enough to YOUR liking's, I say DO it, better safe than sorry

BUT if you damage it, remember its on YOU!

Premium Member
5,072 Posts
I use Mobil waterproof grease in pretty much everything now except for axles (CV's). It last way longer and of course repels any moisture or water.
As for bearings, I don't mess about anymore with OEM or brand name variants, there all junk or over priced. Measure the old and buy brand name from a bearing manufacturer direct.
I've changed every wheel bearing, steering stem bearing and steering arm ball joints for the cost of 3 OEM wheel bearings! Honda UK do charge a fortune though so this may not be the case in the USA.

Edit: To name a few, NTN, SKF & Timken are all quality bearing manufacturers.

Premium Member
5,960 Posts
^^^^ What those guys said!^^^^

I got my own routine down... First, I NEVER try to get by with a china made bearing. If I get tricked into buying them, I either toss them back at the dealer or throw them all in the trash. Buy the brand name and buy the proper RPM/load rated bearings... no tricks or china scamming that way.

I remove seals and repack every bearing before I use it, whether it is a new or used bearing. I use synthetic grease to repack after washing out all of the Yak Fat they put in them. You can use whatever grease you think is appropriate.

If you take rubber seals off from them, do so by pulling the seal out of the groove on the outside diameter of the seal, NOT the inside diameter.... the inner part of the rubber seals have a delicate lip on them that WILL be damaged/ruined if you mess with them. Poke a narrow flat blade screwdriver (micro screwdriver sets usually have one or two with the perfect sized blade) into the top edge of the rubber seal groove in the bearing and gently get it started out... then slide the blade around that outer diameter until the seal pops off. You can do it without bending the seal, but if you do bend one on occasion simply flatten it back down using your fingers.

After cleaning with solvent and blowing them dry, I pack them completely full with grease, then with the bearing held between a thumb and finger, rotate the bearing so that my thumb and finger skims out the excess grease to allow for some expansion space. It doesn't require much air space... so don't empty out the bearing fussing over how much should be in it. Then put the rubber seals back on by using your thumb to gradually rotate/press it back down around the outer diameter ONLY, until its snapped in all the way around. You'll never touch the delicate inner diameter lipped part of the seal using this method. Chances that you'll damage the seals are very near zero...

If bearings have non-removable steel shielded seal on them, I drill a tiny hole in each side (180 degrees apart from the other) and force fresh grease in using an injector needle and grease gun, alternating holes and rotating the bearing until all the Yak Fat is out and my own grease is coming out pure. Then hit one of the holes with a bit of air pressure to give it some small amount of expansion space, then alcohol wash the shields and seal those drilled holes up with 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive or JB-Weld epoxy, depending on where its going to be reinstalled at.

I can literally go from getting a few weeks/months/years of useful life out of a potential high quality bearing, to getting a few decades out of them after a good cleaning/repacking. Anyone can... just a choice.
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