[whammo77]

Was messing around on Facebook Marketplace and found a 1984 Honda TRX200 for $150. The guy had said it runs but couldn't keep it running. I went and looked at it, and for $150 couldn't pass it up. It would start, but not idle. Got it home, messed with the throttle adjustment screw and now it idles fine. Looks like everything on the bike works fine, though it could use some new brake pads. Rode it around a little while and all of the gears seem to be fine.

I'm going to go get all new fluids, plug, etc. Was just wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks I should know about these bikes. I'll prolly spend the next month going through it all and making sure everything is as it should be. I already downloaded a service manual for it.

Would definitely appreciate any knowledge about the TRX200 that people care to share.

Thanks!

 

[retro]

Congrats on the smokin' deal you got!

I'd go through the motor first, adjust the valves and check the compression release, check the cam chain & tensioner, refresh the soft parts in the carb, etc. Then I'd tear it down for bearing repackings & seal replacements where necessary. Check the Kingpins & tie rod ends before taking it apart. Every moving part may need your attention... its just a matter of how much time you want to put into it.

Welcome to the forums!

 

[b52bombardier1]

Don't use regular automotive engine oil here. It must be oil that is "JASO MA" rated for wet clutch engines. Any car oil that has a circular logo on the jug stating "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" likely has a friction modifier in it that will be too slippery for our clutch packs.

I use Shell Rotella T or T6 because it is widely available and relatively inexpensive. There are others and the JASO MA certification will be in the tiny print on the back of the jug.

Rick

 

[cmanningjr]

Nice score!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Goober]

Looks pretty good! I think your rear tires are swapped around the treads backward?

 

[whammo77]

Don't use regular automotive engine oil here. It must be oil that is "JASO MA" rated for wet clutch engines. Any car oil that has a circular logo on the jug stating "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" likely has a friction modifier in it that will be too slippery for our clutch packs.

I use Shell Rotella T or T6 because it is widely available and relatively inexpensive. There are others and the JASO MA certification will be in the tiny print on the back of the jug.

Rick

That's just the kind of info I was looking for. I appreciate you letting me know. I would have used regular oil had you not said that. Much appreciated!

 

[whammo77]

Congrats on the smokin' deal you got!

I'd go through the motor first, adjust the valves and check the compression release, check the cam chain & tensioner, refresh the soft parts in the carb, etc. Then I'd tear it down for bearing repackings & seal replacements where necessary. Check the Kingpins & tie rod ends before taking it apart. Every moving part may need your attention... its just a matter of how much time you want to put into it.

Welcome to the forums!

I am going to take all the plastics off, and work my way through the bike back to front or vice versa.... even down to taking out the spark arrestor and cleaning it. I've rebuilt a lot of 2 stroke engines, but haven't tinkered all that much with 4 strokes. So I may need a little guidance on this thing.

A few things I have noticed thus far (I've only briefly skimmed the manual for this thing, so some of my answers may be in there):

Tail lights work, but do not show you are braking. So they are illuminated full time. Could be a stuck switch? Dunno.

There is a hose coming up off of the case just behind the jug..... It's not connected to anything. I'm thinking it may be a crankcase pressure relief. It doesn't attach to anything. Should it? It seems to be putting off pressure constantly. I'm thinking maybe it shouldn't? Dunno? I've rebuilt numerous FL250's and they have the same pressure relief in the same place.... (going off of memory)..... it seems like it was attached to the filter box.... either way, I don't remember ever having constant pressure from them.

The compression release doesn't show any noticeable difference when up or down. I think up is supposed to be the release and down is normal. I have a 1980 Yamaha XT 500 with a compression release. You can DEFINITELY tell when the release is in use and when it is not. I could not tell a difference with this bike when using the pull-start and trying the release in either position.

Sounds like it has an exhaust leak... I'll have to look a little closer and see what's up with that.

Brakes a very weak.... I'm guessing the pads have never been changed, or haven't been changed in a long time.

Turning the key to the off position doesn't kill the bike. You have to use the thumb kill switch to kill it.

Back over-wheel plastics are cracked... would like to find a new set. Prolly have to settle for used if I can find them on Ebay.

I did seem like there was just a smidge of slip in the transmission, but b52bombardier1's remark about what oil to use and not use may account for that.

Skimming through the manual, I didn't see any oil filter listed, just an oil screen. So I'll definitely CAREFULLY be taking that out and cleaning it.

So yeah, I'll definitely be taking my time, reading the manual thoroughly, and take things apart, clean them, lube them, etc etc. Lord only knows the last time this thing was properly serviced.

No doubt it has some bugs to work out, but for $150, I can deal with it. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and with the help of youtube, the manual, and people such as on this board, no doubt I'll be able to muddle through. :wink:

I actually just bought a brand new Rancher. But for the price, I thought this would be a fun little project for the price.

And thanks for the welcome!!

 

[whammo77]

Looks pretty good! I think your rear tires are swapped around the treads backward?

Good observation. Having been around tractors all my life, that was one of the things I noticed right off the bat. I gotta take the rear wheels off anyway to work on this thing, so I'll swap 'em around when I get to that point.

 

[mrbb]

one thing I"D make sure of, is, LOOK at the VIV, make sure it wasn't altered or damaged
some times super deals like this, can be stolen items!
and if its stolen, any money you sink into it, if discovered you will loose
these days sadly you have to watch yourself more than ever! and all the more so on Craigslist!

 

[SamUK]

Now that's a bargain! Good job @whammo77

 

[WIRedRider]

Those bikes were tanks. Good find.

I don't believe the tail light had brake indication. The next model TRX250A didn't.

The clutch might need adjustment to eliminate the slip. Download the service manual. It's an easy adjustment.

Sent from my LGUS992 using Tapatalk

 

[whammo77]

one thing I"D make sure of, is, LOOK at the VIV, make sure it wasn't altered or damaged
some times super deals like this, can be stolen items!
and if its stolen, any money you sink into it, if discovered you will loose
these days sadly you have to watch yourself more than ever! and all the more so on Craigslist!

I'm very careful with Craigslist buys. But actually, I picked this up on Facebook. Checked the person's profile and it's been there a while and they look legit. Very good advice tho!

 

[Goober]

Great questions
Most likely there is no brake light system like my 86 the taillights are powered by the light switch

Your muffler is full of holes at the back of the can idk how you would patch it.

Good job on adopting it; no doubt you will be able to pick up parts here and there

 

[whammo77]

Don't use regular automotive engine oil here. It must be oil that is "JASO MA" rated for wet clutch engines. Any car oil that has a circular logo on the jug stating "Energy Conserving" or "Resource Conserving" likely has a friction modifier in it that will be too slippery for our clutch packs.

I use Shell Rotella T or T6 because it is widely available and relatively inexpensive. There are others and the JASO MA certification will be in the tiny print on the back of the jug.

Rick

Well, they didn't have the Rotella, but the did have Lucas for Motorcycles 10w-40 and it had the letters you stated plus right across the front is states "Formulated for wet clutches". So, should be good to go on that one... :smile

 

[whammo77]

I downloaded the service manual off of this site for the TRX200. To be fair, it's great for showing you how to rip stuff apart and put it back together, but unless I am missing something, it's not very good for showing you how to make adjustments to the valves, clutch, etc etc. Hmmmmmm..... :huh:

 

[Goober]

Page 3-5? Doesn't look too bad

 

[retro]

I'm not familiar with the TRX200 motor, but on most of the others that have a manual decompression lever, those usually need to be adjusted when you adjust the valves. The FSM should cover that... you may have to skip around through sections to find everything though. It will be a fun project regardless!

 

[SamUK]

Great questions
Most likely there is no brake light system like my 86 the taillights are powered by the light switch

Your muffler is full of holes at the back of the can idk how you would patch it.

Good job on adopting it; no doubt you will be able to pick up parts here and there

I think this ^^^ is correct, brake light systems weren't introduced until much later on. The 250a is a very similar machine and they also have no brake light system, just tail light that works on the headlamp circuit.

 

[b52bombardier1]

Somebody handy with a MIG welder can usually repair our older exhaust systems that we can no longer purchase as new or good, used parts. I use 20 gauge, non galvanized steel for the larger rusty areas and try to keep the arc temperatures down to prevent melting of the good metal. This thickness / gauge of the metal is easy to roll form into semi-tubular patches.

Finding a good welder locally to you that can do the work probably won't be difficult or expensive. Finding non galvanized 20 gauge material in small patch-sized pieces is tougher because they don't want to stock something that will sit on the shelf and rust. Or they will want to sell you an entire 4 x 8 foot sheet. Zinc galvanized metal is easy to find but the zinc weakens the weld and the arc smoke is toxic. I find my patch material on Ebay for five bucks a small sheet and usually buy 3-4 sheets at a time. And then promptly prime them to prevent rust when they get here. Don't buy stainless steel because it is tougher to weld to a dis-similar metal such as your exhaust pipe. Cold rolled automotive patch panel steel is what you want.

Steel Sheet Metal, Cold Rolled 20 gauge 0.036" thick X 8"X12" AUTO BODY REPAIR | eBay

Rick

 

[whammo77]

I think the leak is actually at a joint, but cannot tell. I'll know soon enough though.

I actually used to own a sheet metal shop, so I'm pretty handy with all things metal, and am pretty good with all welding types. Speaking of which, most duct fab shops will usually have some black iron around like you're speaking of, and you can usually go in there and get some cutoffs. It just depends on the shop. Mine was a larger shop, so we always had some black iron around (along with lots of galvanized, aluminum and some stainless) and we had bins of cutoff pieces. I always had people coming around looking for small patches so I kept that stuff around. Some of your smaller shops will be more focused on just fabbing galvanized or maybe just stainless etc etc, and may not have any black iron around. Likewise, they may not have the extra room to keep smaller cutoffs around and may be unwilling to cut in to larger sheets without charging and arm and a leg. The smaller shops around here aren't as diverse and don't have the machinery for working the other metal types and gauges. So it's hit and miss. But that's always good info for people to know. Just takes a few phone calls to figure out who in town tends to have what you need.