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One of the best light oils is TSI 321. It is a polar bonding oil with some incredible properties. Another option is CorrosionX polar bonding oil. Neither of them are sprayed from a can though... they aren't consumer grade products. You'll only lube your cables ONCE in your lifetime with either of them. Use the 321 wherever a light oil is needed, you'll be amazed how many things can benefit from it. Its the last light oil you'll buy and it'll keep your money in your wallet where it belongs... rather than chasing new parts that shouldn't have worn out.

My 2 cents...
 

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You are on the right track with the cable lube tool , but that one only has one thumb screw , there is another one with two thumb screws that works better , I use Yamaha cable lube , you use it with the tool and it goes in as a liquid and turns to grease , which is better than just oiling it
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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One of the best light oils is TSI 321. It is a polar bonding oil with some incredible properties. Another option is CorrosionX polar bonding oil. Neither of them are sprayed from a can though... they aren't consumer grade products. You'll only lube your cables ONCE in your lifetime with either of them. Use the 321 wherever a light oil is needed, you'll be amazed how many things can benefit from it. Its the last light oil you'll buy and it'll keep your money in your wallet where it belongs... rather than chasing new parts that shouldn't have worn out.

My 2 cents...
Sounds interesting. Where does one find it?

I've just gotten in the habit of buying new cables, but on older models that isn't a cost effective method.

On my 500's a new rear brake cable is about $10. Figure in the time to cut back the black coating where the cable goes in, find the proper lube, lube it, and it STILL won't be as good as new, and once you cut that black coating off the cable I figure it will require more frequent work to keep it free.

So as long as they're $10 I figured I'd just replace them. On other models they aren't so cheap, and in the future I'm sure my 500 cables will go up in price, so am interested in good solutions that will keep them free.
 

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@Jeepwm69,

I bought my TSI 321 online from a fishing reel parts/repair website and saved a buck or two. If I remember right you can buy it directly from their website as well. Its expensive... but it goes a long way... just don't spill the container. LOL Same goes for CorrosionX, direct from the website or find someone retailing it cheaper. The CorrosionX is a specialty lube that is better suited for electro-mechanical stuff, like relays and switches and connectors etc. TSI specs and properties are on their site.

For oiling cables I use a needle injector (an ordinary insulin needle, get a handful for cheap or free) and take the cable off the machine and hang it up, then just put a couple drops at a time (in the sheath end where the cable goes into it) until you think enough oil is in there to seep/creep down to the other end. Wait a few hours... when you see a drop of oil coming out and wetting the other end you got it. I usually leave them hang overnight so I can wipe off any excess oil that seeps out before putting them back on the machine.

Many of the cables nowadays are plastic coated, but the inner sheath is not and will hold water and rust. In the winter those wet and rusting cables may freeze. Scary on a throttle cable..... The TSI oil prevents any rust from forming due to the oil being bonded with the metal. A protective layer exists at the surface. If you get mud inside a cable you can just flush it out with alcohol or other water soluble cleaner and re-oil the cable every year or so, when its gotta live in the slop.

You can also buy the oil with a solvent added that thins it down and makes it penetrate quicker, but I get more for my money by buying it undiluted. One bottle lasts me over ten years... and I use it on everything needing a light oil, so I use a lot of it. It makes fishing reels sing... and zing! Small electric motors such as fan motors can benefit from it too. :)
 

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Yes CajunMan , that one you posted the pic of with two thumbs screws makes a tighter seal around the cable than the one with one thumbs screw , I put that tool around the cable and push the red plastic tube on the can of Yamaha cable lube into the rubber hole in the end of the tool , squirt the liquid into the cable till it comes out the other end , the liquid turns to a solid cable grease , works real good , the can of lube last for ever
 

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@fishfiles,

What you explained looks like a hot setup for cables that get dunked all the time, eh? I think I'll try that on the rear brake cables on mine, I like it. Gotta find some synthetic lube that will let the cables return in -35 degree temps for this place though.
 

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Retro , when I get home this evening I will take a pick of the can of lube , it may have info on operating temperature specs of the grease , you would have to think that when they formulated the lube , freezing cold weather like you have and hot steamy weather like I have would have been considerations ----- I'd guess it was about $20 for the lube and the installation tool , well worth it -------- if a cable is really stuck bad , I have used WD-40 or such with the tool and flush the cable out before applying the lube
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Retro , when I get home this evening I will take a pick of the can of lube , it may have info on operating temperature specs of the grease , you would have to think that when they formulated the lube , freezing cold weather like you have and hot steamy weather like I have would have been considerations ----- I'd guess it was about $20 for the lube and the installation tool , well worth it -------- if a cable is really stuck bad , I have used WD-40 or such with the tool and flush the cable out before applying the lube
I'm in south Louisiana...so for my needs, would WD-40 only be good to clean the cables, not lube them? If so, how much does the Yamaha lube cost, and is it only sold in ATV shops or online?
 

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I was thinking about this today, so I searched my lubes cabinet and found some synthetic waterproof grease intended for marine use, that a guy in the Mercury shop gave me several years ago. I remember using it to repack the front wheel bearings in my tractor cause I'm always taking it across ditches with deep water in them. The waterproof marine grease is thinner in consistency than ordinary grease and won't mix with water or get contaminated by muddy water at all, it stays completely separated if mud and water gets in where it shouldn't. So, I'm going to use what little I got left by pumping that grease into brake cables with a small greaser pump. I don't remember the brand name anymore, but it likely came out of a tub of a Mercury branded grease. I'll find something like it I imagine. Thanks for this thread guys!
 

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CajunMan88 Quote "I'm in south Louisiana...so for my needs, would WD-40 only be good to clean the cables, not lube them? If so, how much does the Yamaha lube cost, and is it only sold in ATV shops or online? Quote

I am in Southeast Louisiana , WD-40 to me is only good for cleaning , did you know WD stands for water displacement and 40 stands for the 40th attempt to create a water displacement formula , I think I paid about $10 for the Yamalube cable grease
 

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Liquid graphite mixed with an oil carrier works well in this B.C. climate.
 

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I like that mixing up your own concoction , powered moly would be a good choice , that stuff is amazing , I read where almost all of the moly comes from Moly Mountain in Colorado and it is privately owned land and the number one buyer of moly is the government , I wish I owned a share of the mountain ---------- years ago I seen a demo of an electric motor spinning a cam against three weighted arms which they could adjust the pressure on them , they had dry powdered moly on one , Lucas and Like STP or something on the other , they cranked down hard on the arms and the moly ran smooth the other two when to smoking hot , the powered moly gets into the pours of the metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am in Southeast Louisiana , WD-40 to me is only good for cleaning , did you know WD stands for water displacement and 40 stands for the 40th attempt to create a water displacement formula , I think I paid about $10 for the Yamalube cable grease
Is it available only in ATV or bike shops/ online? Sorry for the incompetence, but I've never had to buy ATV supplies before since this is my first one.
 

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Cajun', with a trade name of Yamalube I would bet the chances of only getting it from a dealership are pretty high , I have seen some Yamalube products on e-bay but never the cable lube ---- in the past I have had some grease in a aerosol can that came out liquid and turn to white lithium grease , can't remember the name of that stuff , pretty sure there are many products out there that do the same thing ------------ are you in the west , central or east of Sportsman Paradise
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cajun', with a trade name of Yamalube I would bet the chances of only getting it from a dealership are pretty high , I have seen some Yamalube products on e-bay but never the cable lube ---- in the past I have had some grease in a aerosol can that came out liquid and turn to white lithium grease , can't remember the name of that stuff , pretty sure there are many products out there that do the same thing ------------ are you in the west , central or east of Sportsman Paradise
West, LA...
 

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Graphite is good cable lube, Ihave found most greases are wet and will attract and hold dirt


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