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getting an ATV running that's been sitting a LONG time

32777 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  alloutdoors
OK so you have or found an ATV that has been sitting a LONG time, months or yr's
and want to get it running
these are MY basic suggestions for atv's that LOOK like they RAN when parked! and were NOT sitting in the weather for yrs
one's that were in weather or look BAD
there are some more things to do, BUT for a basic list, here is MY suggestions
folks feel free to add more or have better one's than me!



the basic IMO are this
first drain the fuel tank, and clean the tank out, make sure the screen in tank is clean
next move down to the peacock valve
and MAKE sure that is clean and working correctly
make sure fuel flows thru it good and easy, on run and reserve
NEXT JUST REPLACE THE FUEL LINE to carb
it can be dirty and blocked or???
its cheap and easy to JUST replace

NEXT< get a carb rebuild kit, odds are after sitting for yrs or?? things went back from being dry or bad fuel

NOW clean carb GOOD, NOT just spray carb cleaner on it and say OK
that's NOT a cleaned carb!

replace all parts with one's from kit,
NEXT<
replace the air filter or CLEAN and re oil
I say REPLACE as most foam filters go back after yrs of sitting and as such, a new oen is a better idea , as NOW you pl;an to be using atv ? money well spent here

NEXT replace the spark plug
NOW drain the motor oil, and replace the oil filter
refill with CORRECT OIL and to CORRECT level, learn how to check oil level correctly
NOT all have to have dip stick screwed in, and NOT all just rest on top
READ HOW YOUR"S is supposed to be checked, and fill to correct level

NEXT< move to the front and rear diff's (if its 4x4) and change the fluids there
AT this point ITS a GREAT idea to inspect wheel bearings, and look for signs of ANY axle bearing or diff bearings or?? for leaks,(AKA, build up of oil about them)
and correct them as needed here!
a worn bearing can lead to bigger repairs, SO< correct before that happens

NEXT will be a battery, your's MIGHT be able to be saved, BUT odds are low, a battery left sitting Long can discharge past the point of NO return

TAKE BATTERY to an auto parts store and have it TESTED under a LOAD, they do this for FREE, and will tell you IF battery is GOOD , or BAD!
charge or replace as needed based on the Battery TEST !!

NOW< after you DO ALL this
get FRESH fuel and fill tank
check all fuses
check electric connection, make sure there not all corroded

MAKE sure kill switch is in RUN, and
THEN try starting it!
IF you take the time to do all the above
you will save yourself maybe a LOT of time wasted on fixing as NEW issue's happen

there all pretty simple and cheap to do
NO reason to NOT do them

IF after doping these, issue's are there, COME back and ask, folks here will help more, but KNOWING the above was done, saves a LOT of time for all!



NOW If atv again looks like its been beat or left in rain or weather for YRS
you will want to check inside of motor to make sure piston is moving freely and NOT rusted to hell

pull plug and look inside see what you se

you can for sure add a little oil and IF it has a manual kick/pull start SLOWLY kick/pull and turn motor SLOWLY and again LOOK for signs of rust build up
IF its rusty, IT means time to split cases and go deeper, before doing MORE damage than needed!



also make sure exhaust isn;'t plugged up from mice or???

SO< anyone else have any to add here??
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yeah, would like to add, when changing the oil filter ?, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT INSTALL THE OIL FILTER IN BACKWARDS !!!!!.
SO< anyone else have any to add here??
Agree with all. The only tweak is I would likely treat any machine (inside or outside) sitting for a long time to some penetration oil or deep sea foam in the cylinder head as a precaution. The amount of time I would let a mixture sit on the piston would equal my impression of the entire machine, rough life longer vs. what appears to be a well keep....
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I think that is a great idea, I would also maybe suggest going a hair farther and for the first time pulling it over to do so after letting it soak and then with the plug out, just to see if she's free or not and listen for any bad sounds LOL

on the flip side, if your going to be storing for a long time, adding some oil to the plug hole is never a bad idea either and a few pulls on pull starter (plug out) to lube things up before sitting
and I DON"T recommend using any oils that dry , like WD-40, use something better!
I think that is a great idea, I would also maybe suggest going a hair farther and for the first time pulling it over to do so after letting it soak and then with the plug out, just to see if she's free or not and listen for any bad sounds LOL

on the flip side, if your going to be storing for a long time, adding some oil to the plug hole is never a bad idea either and a few pulls on pull starter (plug out) to lube things up before sitting
and I DON"T recommend using any oils that dry , like WD-40, use something better!
Agree and would do my best to get some penetration oil or sea foam in the valve train area as well....
When my H-D is put away for the winter ..... both plugs are pulled, plug wires grounded, motor oil squirted into the combustion chamber, clean rags held over both open plug holes, and hit the starter. It will spin fast as there is no compression.
Gap/clean sparkplugs, install to correct torque ....... 4 months later, fire it up.
When my H-D is put away for the winter ..... both plugs are pulled, plug wires grounded, motor oil squirted into the combustion chamber, clean rags held over both open plug holes, and hit the starter. It will spin fast as there is no compression.
Gap/clean sparkplugs, install to correct torque ....... 4 months later, fire it up.
Precisely how I do my generator, boat, etc., when I know it will be parked for 3 plus months.
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