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On my 2001 TRX350 manual shift I think I have a carburetor problem. Out driving around with a full take of gas and suddenly I am empty. I refilled once I got home and noticed the problem was that gas was pouring out the carburetor. I think that is the overflow tube coming out the bottom. I am new to ATV maintenance. A few google searches and it was suggested that getting a new Carburetor is well worth the expense over getting a carburetor kit. I don't like the idea of taking all that stuff out and finding out I did not really fix the problem. So is it worth getting a carburetor kit and take the thing apart or do I get a new Carburetor and solve my problem long term. Any help at all would be appreciated.
 

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On my 2001 TRX350 manual shift I think I have a carburetor problem. Out driving around with a full take of gas and suddenly I am empty. I refilled once I got home and noticed the problem was that gas was pouring out the carburetor. I think that is the overflow tube coming out the bottom. I am new to ATV maintenance. A few google searches and it was suggested that getting a new Carburetor is well worth the expense over getting a carburetor kit. I don't like the idea of taking all that stuff out and finding out I did not really fix the problem. So is it worth getting a carburetor kit and take the thing apart or do I get a new Carburetor and solve my problem long term. Any help at all would be appreciated.
I'm not the expert here but I can tell you what they will say. Also, I took their advice for my 1997 TRX250 and 2014 TRX420 Rancher.

Yes, your carb is a problem. It may just need a thorough cleaning to fix the problem and that's where you should start.

If the cleaning does not work I recommend rebuilding the carb using a Shindy rebuild kit. You can buy cheaper kits but most are of Chinese origin and you will be wasting your money. You get what you pay for! If I am capable of rebuilding a carb anyone can do it! I wasn't even sure which part was the carb when I started. SO, go for it! It's not as difficult as it seems. There are plenty of great posts and stickies here that will help you.

A new OEM carb is expensive but if money is not an issue then go for it. Do not purchase a cheap non-OEM carb. It might work for a while but then will likely fail. Anyone who tells you it's cheaper to buy a new carb rather than rebuilt it is talking about using a cheap replacement.

Also, check your throttle cable to be sure it's not sticking or binding.

Do things right the first time so you can enjoy your TRX350 for a long time to come! Please keep us posted. It's no fun when people fly by the forum for advice and disappear. Your followup may help someone else in the future, so , again, keep us posted!

Others will be along to offer other advice to help you.
 

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You do not need a new carb, but your current carb is 18?years old. Time to rebuild it.

Get a Shindy rebuild kit
Replace the primer plunger
Replace the starter valve if it has one

Most importantly get the service manual and start doing those maintenance items

Or take it in and have the Honda techs do it
 

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I read where you are remote , I now from my line of work that things need to get up and running , time is money , rebuilding the carb can be as easy as opening it and cleaning it with a can of carb spray without even getting a kit , then it might take removing and installing it several times with a kit , if you can afford a new OEM carb and want to get it right the first time I would go that way and get it over with -----be sure to clean the tank and petcock , it only takes a flake of rust or dirt to stick that float and have it over flowing again
 

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Not sure of the price on a rebuild kit, but I would suggest checking online for a replacement carb. I got a replacement carb for my 2006 Rancher from Amazon for about $40, but that was 2 years ago. It's still working great and was an easy swap. I've been using ethanol free gas since then and have not had any issues.
 

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Your float needle valve is leaking. Common on 350 carbs. If it's running ok I'd just try to fix the leak.

Pull the carb, take the bowl off the bottom (4 screws), and slide the pivot pin out on the float, allowing you to lift the float up. You'll see a brass insert in the carb and a needle that goes up into that insert (seat) with a rubber tip that sits in the tabs on the float.

If the needle tip is reallly hard, order a Shindy carb kit which will have a new needle in it. Take a Qtip with some polishing compound (even toothpaste will work), stick it in a drill and on slow speed polish the inside of that brass insert that the needle goes into. If your needle doesn't look horrible, scuff the rubber tip with some 000 steel wool.

When the float goes up, it pushes that rubber tip into the seat, which stops gas flow. If the float gets a hole in it, or if that rubber tip doesn't seal against the seat, gas continues to flow and comes out of the overflow (don't block the overflow or the gas goes into your crankcase!)

If that fails, buy a new OEM carb. Don't risk a china carb.
 

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the 2000 trx450 had a leak, till i had my short vision glass on, an used a magnifying glass, an seen some, hard water type buildup, where the needle seats. a good cleaning, will take care of old age parts. yours is over due. wish that would work for me, a rebuild. plenty of advice on how-to rebuild carburetor here. the hard water buildup, i think, was caused by using ethanol gas, on mine.
if you buy made in china, ya got least a 5-10% chance, it might work, for a while, if at all. can ya get non-ethanol gas over that way?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks like I might get a new carburetor. I will just have to wait for. This is all very good information, I am a pretty handy guy with most things but mechanic stuff is not my strong suit. I may get a new carburetor and a kit and clean out the old and have it as a spare in the future.
 

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Great info! I just got a 96 300 and mine is doing the same thing. Its been sitting for a while (years) and had a full tank of gas. I drained it by taking the tank off, cleaned the screen and put some fresh non-ethanol gas in it. Started up after a few cranks but would only stay idling at 1/2 choke. Finally got it to idle and run good with no choke by throttling it up and down. Tires are shot so I can't ride it. When I shut it off fuel started leaking from the overflow hose! Thanks to this post, sounds like I dislodged a piece of gunk and its stuck in there. I'll go the rebuild route as I have no need for ATV and this is a project for me.

I will say though the reviews of the cheap $40.00 carbs on Amazon are pretty good. Seem to work well for people. Maybe they don't last though. How much is a OEM?
 

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a good carb is way more than $40.oo bucks. you buy that, then start flushing money, down the toilet. your better off, with a kit. you might find some used oem carbs that are worth buying. then your still looking into a rebuild, or a new one.
a good OEM is worth rebuilding.
i forgot to say, if it sounds to good to be true, then kiss your money goodby.
many online reviews, are bogus.. ..
 

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Good point. I looked up the carb for mine...was over $200.00. $40 for a reproduction and over $200 for a OEM??? That repo must be very cheaply made. I'm all about saving money like everyone else but that price difference would raise some alarms!!
 

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China carbs are pretty hit and miss. Often they show up with more problems than the old carb you took off, but sometimes you get a decent one too. It’s a roll of the dice really. New OEM carb for that year is $260 but if you look at a carb for the 2006 model it’s only $155, I don’t see why that one wouldn’t work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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oaky... now I am trying to figure out what kit to buy. I have a 2001 trx350 fm. When I go to buy a carburetor kit they have the question. TRX350 fm 2 and TRX350 fm 2A, what's the difference? Anybody know?
Please do all of the following—these are all “must-dos”

Look in the service manual it lists the carb part numbers and how to find yours.

Validate the part number for the carb you have; it’s stamped on the left side of the carb right above the bowl

Use my Rocky Mtn link below to cross-reference your machine and parts—RM lists model type and includes VINs. This will help you answer your question

Read the carb sticky and the service manual on how to rebuild a carb.

It’s not at all complicated but you have to follow instructions. I bought a printed service manual so I could read it easily

Until I became member here had never before rebuilt a carb. Since then i have rebuilt 8; 5 i got off fleabay—all junkers for less than $60. On a 1-10 scale with oil change being 1, this is like a 3–doesn’t require special tools but has several part
 

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Keep in mind, the fuel system is old and likely has debris within the tank as well as the gas line. So, I would recommend whether you go rebuild or OEM new, I would take the time to clean the tank completely and replace the fuel line as well as air filter system. Best of luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Took a while for this to get resolved, done today. As I was getting into taking out the carburetor a few things started to ring alarm bells. In other words, didn't match up to the pictures on what I should be seeing. Turns out the guy I bought it from did some creative "fixing" and a few short cuts. I took it in to a dealer and let them straighten it all out which they did for a reasonable price. At least now I know it is done right with all the little things the previous owner did to it being corrected. Personally I would never have figured it out.
Thanks for all the advice all the same... might not seem like it but it did get me to where I needed to be even if I did not do it myself.
 
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