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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In advance, thanks for your time and suggestions ---- great forum:

TRX-350D (87'). Very low hours. Has been sitting for a couple of years. We replaced filter (was filled with mush) ,plug,gas. Started right up and then died. Bypassed tank and fed gas directly to cab, ran well. Soooo, thought we should replace the tank ($250+...whew! :wacko:). Suggestions?? Should we replace pump also (does seem to work-but,23years old)...bypass...whole fuel system to the cab????
Otherwise, the old beast is in very good shape. Only used deer hunting and occassionaly around the yard.......

Hunting season is upon us....

Regards,
jack49
 

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In advance, thanks for your time and suggestions ---- great forum:

TRX-350D (87'). Very low hours. Has been sitting for a couple of years. We replaced filter (was filled with mush) ,plug,gas. Started right up and then died. Bypassed tank and fed gas directly to cab, ran well. Soooo, thought we should replace the tank ($250+...whew! :wacko:). Suggestions?? Should we replace pump also (does seem to work-but,23years old)...bypass...whole fuel system to the cab????
Otherwise, the old beast is in very good shape. Only used deer hunting and occassionaly around the yard.......

Hunting season is upon us....

Regards,
jack49
hate to spoil your fun..butttttttt..lol..the gas tank is under the seat on these bikes..unless you mount a gas tank somewhere up high..i'd stick with the one you have...if the pump is still working..use it..if not..go to advanced auto parts..tell them you need a 12dc low pressure round fuel pump..it's about 4 psi..perfect replacement ( i use it once at one time )..take the tank out..remove the drain bolt from the very bottom..go to wally world..buy a box of bb's..pour them into the tank..shake the crap outta it..this will remove most of the rust thats in it...( make sure you put the drain bolt back in before you pour the bb's in and shake it ! )..if it's been sitting for 2 yrs..you need to over hual the carb with a new carb rebuild kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In the Process of 'fixing' the Gas Tank--Whew !

Shadetree,
to clarify,,, we disconnected the ATV gas tank and ran gas directly into the cab,,,,ran great. So, that told us there are issues "upstream''. Cleaned out the tank, as you suggested, with beads and gum breakdown solution. Cab done. Replaced filter. Replaced hoses. Followed with acid --clear out surface rust wash. This released frozen float,,,but, also cleared out 'stuff' to expose seam leak. Now, we will coat the inside with 'epoxy' type of coating..... Hope this all works. Perhaps I should have just bought the new tank..... I really like this old machine...built like a tank. Small but plenty of power for woods .
Tanks (pun intended) again for your help. Much appreciated.

Regards,
jack

* 87'350TRX; 01'Kubota L2900GST; 08' Kubota Z331-60P; 80"Miata; 06'PorscheCS-997; 36'FordDeluxe; 02'LincolnLS; 08'MilanPremier; 91'JD 420.
 

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Shadetree,
to clarify,,, we disconnected the ATV gas tank and ran gas directly into the cab,,,,ran great. So, that told us there are issues "upstream''. Cleaned out the tank, as you suggested, with beads and gum breakdown solution. Cab done. Replaced filter. Replaced hoses. Followed with acid --clear out surface rust wash. This released frozen float,,,but, also cleared out 'stuff' to expose seam leak. Now, we will coat the inside with 'epoxy' type of coating..... Hope this all works. Perhaps I should have just bought the new tank..... I really like this old machine...built like a tank. Small but plenty of power for woods .
Tanks (pun intended) again for your help. Much appreciated.

Regards,
jack

* 87'350TRX; 01'Kubota L2900GST; 08' Kubota Z331-60P; 80"Miata; 06'PorscheCS-997; 36'FordDeluxe; 02'LincolnLS; 08'MilanPremier; 91'JD 420.
i don't think anyone can get a new oem tank..they may have discontiuded it ?/.not sure..but it won't be cheap if you can still get one !..lol.
 

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i don't think anyone can get a new oem tank..they may have discontiuded it ?/.not sure..but it won't be cheap if you can still get one !..lol.
Yep, the fuel tanks have been discontinued, unless you can find an aftermarket company that makes them and I doubt it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
350 TRX ---- saga

S and H,
Thanks for comments. Too bad there are no OEM products...ala,,bladder type of design. Son found tank for $ 250.,,, Will try my clean,acid,rinse,and seal program with present tank. I might have to invent my own tank ......ie: two gallon plastic with sealer washers and tubes...etc. We will see. Don't like the idea of uncontrolled gas on anything.

Are most/many of the parts for this 87' 350Foretrax discontinued??

thanks again to you and the Forum..
jack49
 

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S and H,
Thanks for comments. Too bad there are no OEM products...ala,,bladder type of design. Son found tank for $ 250.,,, Will try my clean,acid,rinse,and seal program with present tank. I might have to invent my own tank ......ie: two gallon plastic with sealer washers and tubes...etc. We will see. Don't like the idea of uncontrolled gas on anything.

Are most/many of the parts for this 87' 350Foretrax discontinued??

thanks again to you and the Forum..
jack49
your welcome..and yes..most parts are no longer being made..some mind you..can still be got..others..like the tanks..one-way bearings..wiring harness..most all of the elec parts are not being made..the fuel pump..nope..don't make them anymore..not oem anyway..your best bet on the gas tank..they make a epoxy resin based stuff..kinda like rubber when it's mixed..sets up like plastic after it hardens..use that.. DO NOT USE ANYMORE ACID WASH..THE TANK IS TOO OLD TO HOLD UP TO THIS !..the acid will cause more damage !!.use the epoxy rubber liner stuff..i don't know where you get it..but..thats your best bet. if you know anyone that can weld with brass..have them brass weld it..i've seen it done...then follow up with the rubber liner stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rebuild of 350 TRX--- update

Thanks for the inputs:
* tomorrow a welder will weld the gas tank seams. Seems like a better approach than the sealant method. We will see. Tank is in very good shape now that the crude is cleaned out.
* replace all hoses, cab rebuilt. May eliminate the float mechanism and cover hole.
* ordered a pump . went in fine ,but , this new version does not have a breather tube???? Guy said it was the same. Any thoughts?
* decided not to replace shocks.... after 20 years, they still seem to have a seal..
* I am impressed on how well the frame/paint/fittings are after 20+ years. A very well built machine.
Don't know the total picture, but, there ought to be a better parts source market for all of these old ATV's. Clearly, the prices charged (for the parts that are still available) are very high (ie: gas filter at $25.). Of course, the parts not available (ie: gas tanks) are a whole new problem. Or, adaptation kits for certain parts of the system (ie: repower engine kits (Honda/B&S/Kawasaki) that one can buy for very old John Deere garden tractors) could solve some issue for multiple machines..... albeit not the original product and/or look.
Thanks for your advice--- should know this weekend if all of this has worked. Deer hunting is the week of Thanksgiving in Wisconsin...
Regards,
jack49 :icon_ banana:
 

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Thanks for the inputs:
* tomorrow a welder will weld the gas tank seams. Seems like a better approach than the sealant method. We will see. Tank is in very good shape now that the crude is cleaned out.
* replace all hoses, cab rebuilt. May eliminate the float mechanism and cover hole.
* ordered a pump . went in fine ,but , this new version does not have a breather tube???? Guy said it was the same. Any thoughts?
* decided not to replace shocks.... after 20 years, they still seem to have a seal..
* I am impressed on how well the frame/paint/fittings are after 20+ years. A very well built machine.
Don't know the total picture, but, there ought to be a better parts source market for all of these old ATV's. Clearly, the prices charged (for the parts that are still available) are very high (ie: gas filter at $25.). Of course, the parts not available (ie: gas tanks) are a whole new problem. Or, adaptation kits for certain parts of the system (ie: repower engine kits (Honda/B&S/Kawasaki) that one can buy for very old John Deere garden tractors) could solve some issue for multiple machines..... albeit not the original product and/or look.
Thanks for your advice--- should know this weekend if all of this has worked. Deer hunting is the week of Thanksgiving in Wisconsin...
Regards,
jack49 :icon_ banana:
you can't eliminate the float..or it will flood the engine through the intake valve..not a very smart move..you got to leave that in there..unless you want to change your oil all the time you go to ride it ??..lol.
 

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Thanks for the inputs:
* tomorrow a welder will weld the gas tank seams. Seems like a better approach than the sealant method. We will see. Tank is in very good shape now that the crude is cleaned out.
* replace all hoses, cab rebuilt. May eliminate the float mechanism and cover hole.
* ordered a pump . went in fine ,but , this new version does not have a breather tube???? Guy said it was the same. Any thoughts?
* decided not to replace shocks.... after 20 years, they still seem to have a seal..
* I am impressed on how well the frame/paint/fittings are after 20+ years. A very well built machine.
Don't know the total picture, but, there ought to be a better parts source market for all of these old ATV's. Clearly, the prices charged (for the parts that are still available) are very high (ie: gas filter at $25.). Of course, the parts not available (ie: gas tanks) are a whole new problem. Or, adaptation kits for certain parts of the system (ie: repower engine kits (Honda/B&S/Kawasaki) that one can buy for very old John Deere garden tractors) could solve some issue for multiple machines..... albeit not the original product and/or look.
Thanks for your advice--- should know this weekend if all of this has worked. Deer hunting is the week of Thanksgiving in Wisconsin...
Regards,
jack49 :icon_ banana:
you can't eliminate the float..or it will flood the engine through the intake valve..not a very smart move..you got to leave that in there..unless you want to change your oil all the time you go to ride it ??..lol.
He might be talking about the float assembly in the tank, that works the fuel gauge.
 

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Thanks for the inputs:
* tomorrow a welder will weld the gas tank seams. Seems like a better approach than the sealant method. We will see. Tank is in very good shape now that the crude is cleaned out.
* replace all hoses, cab rebuilt. May eliminate the float mechanism and cover hole.
* ordered a pump . went in fine ,but , this new version does not have a breather tube???? Guy said it was the same. Any thoughts?
* decided not to replace shocks.... after 20 years, they still seem to have a seal..
* I am impressed on how well the frame/paint/fittings are after 20+ years. A very well built machine.
Don't know the total picture, but, there ought to be a better parts source market for all of these old ATV's. Clearly, the prices charged (for the parts that are still available) are very high (ie: gas filter at $25.). Of course, the parts not available (ie: gas tanks) are a whole new problem. Or, adaptation kits for certain parts of the system (ie: repower engine kits (Honda/B&S/Kawasaki) that one can buy for very old John Deere garden tractors) could solve some issue for multiple machines..... albeit not the original product and/or look.
Thanks for your advice--- should know this weekend if all of this has worked. Deer hunting is the week of Thanksgiving in Wisconsin...
Regards,
jack49 :icon_ banana:
you can't eliminate the float..or it will flood the engine through the intake valve..not a very smart move..you got to leave that in there..unless you want to change your oil all the time you go to ride it ??..lol.
He might be talking about the float assembly in the tank, that works the fuel gauge.
ah..ok..that he can do..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the attention to my ATV issue (s). Sorry I was not clear on the float. Indeed, it is the gas tank float. Left it in place but disconnected the wires. Finally, put the whole "pile'' of parts back together . Runs like a champ. Used it to pull a lawn areator for almost two hours-- without issues. I use only non oxygenated gas and some gas stablizer. The new gas sucks for any/all engines.
The weld idea was the best--- did not use the sealant/goo method. Also, put one of those battery maintenance chargers built into the battery/wiring . All I have to do is to plug the charger up via the quick connect. I use these on my sports cars, the 36 Ford and my electric boat. I am convinced I get 50% ,or more ,life out of the batteries... Especially, for engines/batteries not used routinely. Never seem to buy ,or have, battery problems....... (have 16 batteries in various vehicles/boat). Thinking about one of those magnet engine heaters for the below zero weather days..... Thoughts??
I am ready for deer hunting. Thanks to the Forum.
Regards,
jack49 :lifting:
 

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Thanks for the attention to my ATV issue (s). Sorry I was not clear on the float. Indeed, it is the gas tank float. Left it in place but disconnected the wires. Finally, put the whole "pile'' of parts back together . Runs like a champ. Used it to pull a lawn areator for almost two hours-- without issues. I use only non oxygenated gas and some gas stablizer. The new gas sucks for any/all engines.
The weld idea was the best--- did not use the sealant/goo method. Also, put one of those battery maintenance chargers built into the battery/wiring . All I have to do is to plug the charger up via the quick connect. I use these on my sports cars, the 36 Ford and my electric boat. I am convinced I get 50% ,or more ,life out of the batteries... Especially, for engines/batteries not used routinely. Never seem to buy ,or have, battery problems....... (have 16 batteries in various vehicles/boat). Thinking about one of those magnet engine heaters for the below zero weather days..... Thoughts??
I am ready for deer hunting. Thanks to the Forum.
Regards,
jack49 :lifting:
glad you got it fixed !!..great atv..owned 3 of them counting the one i have now.
 

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Hey Jack49, how bout a picture? I love reading these forums on repairs/maintenance to learn from the best !!!! Would love to see how it turned out. Any tips to pass onto beginners in the world of ATV maintenance would be greatly appreciated. Just bought a 2011 Foreman 500 manual shift a few months ago and I'm trying to keep it running smoooooooooth... So far the best tip I was given is to run the bike for a few minutes a week. That should keep battery ok and keep the carb from gumming up. Doing what you guys do seems almost impossible to me!!! Keep up the good work.
 
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