i just pulled my wheels and tires off for the first time in a while to change the front brakes on my '99 fourtrax 300 4x4. the pads are worn bad but also the pistons (i dont know the proper name for them) that push the pads out and all of the hardware surrounding them are rusted pretty bad. also, when i pull the brake lever only one of the pistons on each side functions. the other two just dont move. is there anything i can do to salvage the brakes on the bike now (besides getting new pads, im gonna do that anyway). I dont want to have to buy the whole front brake assembly if i can get by without it. thanks for the help.
front brake issue
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6,604 Posts
Here is a link to a caliper rebuild kit.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/...tId=2008416&shopid=100001&pageid=12&TID=101DF
http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/...tId=2008416&shopid=100001&pageid=12&TID=101DF
update on the brake issue. I had the left knuckle off to change the bearings in it and when i reinstalled everything i bled the brakes. the brake lever is still very loose and two of the pistons on the brakes barely move and the other two do not move at all. the brake lever goes all the way to the grip without much resistance. does this still sound like i need a new brake assembly or can i adjust this play somehow.
p.s. i cannot get any of the adjustment screws on the pistons to turn. they are all rusted badly.
p.s. i cannot get any of the adjustment screws on the pistons to turn. they are all rusted badly.
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13 Posts
torch time
the two adjustable pins do not move with hydraulic pressure. they are in blind holes in the hub and are meant to be adjusted by prying through a hole on the hub with a screwdriver(seen the red or black rubber plugs in the brake drum?) so you don't have to remove the wheels to adjust. If you grab the nut part with plyers and/or vise grips, you can pull the adjusters from the holes (still seized). then put them in a vise and heat red hot once with a torch before even trying to turn the threads. after they have cooled you can spin the nut part off the thread and lube with an anti-seize before assy again. The calipers have arrows cast into them for which way to spin the adjusting nut and make sure you have the correct one in the correct side because one has a backwards thread.:icon_ nono:
the two adjustable pins do not move with hydraulic pressure. they are in blind holes in the hub and are meant to be adjusted by prying through a hole on the hub with a screwdriver(seen the red or black rubber plugs in the brake drum?) so you don't have to remove the wheels to adjust. If you grab the nut part with plyers and/or vise grips, you can pull the adjusters from the holes (still seized). then put them in a vise and heat red hot once with a torch before even trying to turn the threads. after they have cooled you can spin the nut part off the thread and lube with an anti-seize before assy again. The calipers have arrows cast into them for which way to spin the adjusting nut and make sure you have the correct one in the correct side because one has a backwards thread.:icon_ nono:
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7,526 Posts
I know they dont move with hydraulic presser. I have the same 300 I know how the breaks work. He said when you pull the brake leaver it didn't feel like it had much resistance. And that's when I said ,If the hub is not on it you will not have any resistance. That when I went on to the adjustments. And I know what the red plug is for.
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