[Hockeyman59]

I have a Honda RANCHER 2004 trx. I started out by just wanting to replace the front brake pads..well..2 days later I went ahead and bought a new master cylinder, and each of the front brake cylinders (2 for each front wheel)...I didn’t buy the rebuild kits cause it was almost the same price as the fully assembled part.. so after putting the new master cylinder on, and all 4 of the front cylinders, I started to bleed the lines.. I filled the master with fluid, pumped the handle several times, opened the bleeder valve on the wheel and let the bubbles come out. Did this many times on each front wheel until I saw no air bubbles coming out. The problem is there is no pressure on the front brakes unless I pump the lever about 10 times then the brakes work, I let go of the lever and again no pressure. I went back to bleed again, no air bubbles! No leaks that I can see on any of the lines. What did I miss? I am confused because all the parts are brand new OEM. Anyone have any ideas or tips? I’m stumped. I don’t think I have a clog in any of the lines or else I wouldn’t be getting fluid to come out the bleeder valve right?

 

[Goober]

You have bubbles trapped in the hose just beyond the master cylinder

Position the Mc so those bubbles can escape from that hose bend up thru the Mc. Jiggle the lever and you’ll see them bubbling up.

 

[shadetree]

did you adjust the brake shoes out in the drums BEFORE you started to bleed brakes ?. if you did not ?, then this is one of your problems, as well as air in the brake lines.

 

[shadetree]

start here -------------> https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/brakes-suspension/15549-how-bleed-your-brakes.html . ( really wish you folks would read the sticky's ).

 

[retro]

These comments are included in the sticky but I'll explain again anyway...

Since there are two adjusters inside each brake drum, the best way to adjust those brakes is to tighten each adjuster out all the way so the shoes completely lock the drum up. Then turn that same adjuster back just 3 -4 clicks, which allows you to turn the brake drum so you can adjust the opposite adjuster up tight. Back that 2nd adjuster off 3-4 clicks like you did with the 1st once the drum is locked up.

The drum should now rotate with effort and you'll feel the brake shoes dragging... thats perfect.

Repeat the process on the other brake drum.

Then bleed any residual air from the master cylinder and out through the brake bleeders.

They can be a bugger to bleed sometimes... let us know if you have any questions.

Welcome to the forums!

 

[hodge5]

Adding to what's been said, be patient. Chances are, you do not have bad parts. Make sure the shoes are properly adjusted, then continue to methodically bleed the system.
A side note, not directly pertaining to your current condition- I would suggest replacing the brake lines with braided hoses, while you're working on the system. I had replaced the brake shoes on my 300FW (same brake setup as your Rancher). While they worked, the brakes were weak and spongy. I eventually purchased and installed the disc brake conversion- to find that the application of the front brakes were still spongy. Watching the original brake lines while applying the brake, I could see the hoses slightly swell. I was losing brake pressure through the hose swell. I replaced them with braided lines, and the application was rock hard. I am sure, that if I had replaced the hoses and stuck with the factory drums and shoes, I would have been satisfied with the factory braking (I don't regret the disc brakes, but my central issues was the hoses, not the drum brakes). Point is, it's worth the trouble and money to put braided lines on- you get all of the brake pressure to the cylinders.

 

[fishfiles]

I replaced them with braided lines, and the application was rock hard.

Hodge , I am about to have to redo my front brake hoses cause they are not going to long enough , plan on using my original Banjo fittings and replace the hose and crimp it hopefully as I have quite a few different size sleeve crimpers and crimps ,
so how did you go about the hoses , prefabbed lengths or made custom out of a length of hose and what hose did you use ???? Thanks for any reply !!! ----------



I always will pinch the hose right at the master with pinch pliers , pull the lever 1 to 1 1/2 times the first time , 1 time after that and if it is tight and will hold then I know the master cylinder is good and the problem is air in the line or brake adjustment ----- I really don't have front drums on anything no more , for what you spend on wheel cylinders , shoes , springs and seals , you can go disc conversion

 

[Hockeyman59]

Thank you all for your help. The part that I was missing was turning the adjusters all the way back out and a few clicks in again. I must have missed that part in my internet search somewhere. ;-)

I do appreciate everyone's help and guidance on this. They are working like a champ now.

I do have one question, should they lock completely up to where I cannot forcefully turn them by hand? I mean, they do lock and they are pretty tight, but if I really try to spin the tire I can move them. One side of me says no, but the other side of me thinks about what they really are, just friction and it would turn a bit if enough pressure was put on them.

*I am sorry I did not check the sticky section, it was late at night and i was frustrated and didn't think to look there. Sorry about that.

 

[shadetree]

Thank you all for your help. The part that I was missing was turning the adjusters all the way back out and a few clicks in again. I must have missed that part in my internet search somewhere. ;-)

I do appreciate everyone's help and guidance on this. They are working like a champ now.

I do have one question, should they lock completely up to where I cannot forcefully turn them by hand? I mean, they do lock and they are pretty tight, but if I really try to spin the tire I can move them. One side of me says no, but the other side of me thinks about what they really are, just friction and it would turn a bit if enough pressure was put on them.

*I am sorry I did not check the sticky section, it was late at night and i was frustrated and didn't think to look there. Sorry about that.

np about not reading . as for locking up ?, you can lock them up from not spinning by hand ?, but when driving ?, you will never lock up drum brakes !. ( least i've never been able too ? ).

 

[Hockeyman59]

ah ok. just making sure they were adjusted correctly. They seem to stop the bike from going forward which is what i am pretty much aiming for .. lol. I obviously have never worked on brakes before (can you tell? haha!)... i am good at taking things apart, putting things back together correctly is the part I lack.

Thanks again!

 

[shadetree]

ah ok. just making sure they were adjusted correctly. They seem to stop the bike from going forward which is what i am pretty much aiming for .. lol. I obviously have never worked on brakes before (can you tell? haha!)... i am good at taking things apart, putting things back together correctly is the part I lack.

Thanks again!

yw . practice ..practice !..lol. over 25 years of working on this stuff, takes practice !!..lol.

 

[retro]

They might need to be readjusted right away since the shoes are new. The manual says to adjust each adjuster all the way tight, then back it out 3 clicks. I'd do that right now... then adjust them again after the new shoes wear enough to conform to the drums (break-in).

If the lever feels spongy, or if it pulls all of the way back (up against the handlebar grip) then you'll have to bleed air from the system again. While the front brakes may never be powerful enough to lock up and slide the front wheels, the lever should be solid and stop before it reaches the grip when you yank on it.

 

[LedFTed]

when ya get time, let us know how it turns out. seems like your on the right track.