With all that said. How hard is it, and what do I need to do to remove the shafts and replace them. I’d rather not remove the whole knuckles from my machine. I’d prefer to just take the shafts out of the knuckles I bought and replace them on my bike [then sell the extra parts of course].
For the purpose of documentation in case it helps others, here are 2 different procedures I found that might [or might not] apply, and they also might be to replace the joints or boots, but it will be similar. If anyone else has something to add, please do.
Version 1
1) Remove the wheel
2) Take the brake calliber off - if you have disc brakes (two cap screws)
3) Disconnect the tie-rod (there is a cotter pin there too)
4) Remove the large nut holding the wheel housing onto the axle (there is a cotter pin there too)
5) Dicconnect the upper and lower ball joints and slide the wheel housing off the CV stem
* At this point the axle is free on the outside. - Don't let it just dangle as damage to the inner CV could result. (Per AC instructions)
6) Cut the bands on the inner boot and slide the boot back.
7) There is a large 'C' ring on inner CV joint that need to be removed - start it with a small screwdriver and grab it with needle nose pliars.
8) Slide the inner CV joint out of the housing
9) Remove the small 'C' clip from the axle
10) Slide the inner CV joint off the axle.
11) Cut the bands off the outer boot.
12) Slide both boots off the axle.
13) Install new boot and reverse the above steps.
Version 2
1. Jack your vehicle off the ground and secure it from rolling
2. Remove the wheel
3. Remove the axle nut (large nut on the outside of the hub)
4. Remove the lower control arm bolt or ball joint from the hub assembly
5. The hub will be able to swing out away allowing the outer cv joint to be slipped out through the back. This may require a tap on the threaded end of the outer cv joint. Put the axle nut back on half way so that you can tap on it without damaging the threads.
6. The inner u-joint will be the only thing holding it axle in place. That can be removed by knocking out the roll pin which holds it to the front differential. If you have an inner cv joint these are held in by a “c” clip, just pry it away from the differential and it will pop out. Now you should be able to pull it off the stub shaft.
7. Once the axle is out of the vehicle. Hold the cv axle by the shaft close to the inner cv or u-joint and hit the outer cv joint off of the shaft with a hammer (I use a 5 lb sledge. (wear glasses, grease may fly!) It usually comes off with one or two good blows with the hammer. However, If it doesn't come off put the axle in a vise and try again. If it still doesn't come off use your hammer to break the cage and remove the ball bearings. This will expose the race. You'll need to press the race off of the shaft. You can use a punch and hammer to punch the shaft back through the race. Other wise you'll need to use a press. Or cut it off with a cutoff saw. Cut the race in the direction of the splines on the shaft. That way it won't affect your new joint going onto the splines.
8. Now that the joint is removed cut away the old boot and clamps and clean the shaft with parts cleaner or Brake clean.
9. Put on the new boot and slide it toward the inner out of the way.
ADDED: And, then there is this of course,
from the 'Bearing How to' posted on this site. Steps 1 - 9 posted below.
Version 3, probably the way to go:
1:Thoroughly clean the machine, making sure to remove all debris around the wheel hubs, axles, a-frames, and shocks.
2:Raise the machine up, and brace it with jack stands or other solid and stable objects.
3:Remove the wheels.
4:Remove the cotter pin.
5:Remove the castle nut (sometimes this requires an impact wrench)
6:Remove the brake hub.
7:Remove the lower shock bolt from the a-arm and swing upwards out of your workspace.
8:Remove the two lower a-arm bolts holding it to the frame.
9:Swing the lower a-arm away from the machine and physically pull the axle shaft out of the steering knuckle.
