[Arcticcat340]

As many of you might know I bought an 86 Fourtrax 250 with an aftermarket carb installed and an original carb that came in the parts bucket. I just finished rebuilding the original and installed it and it fired right up. I believe the choke plunger is to tight in the bore/sleeve it slides in on the carb. I'm not to sure how to tell but when I turn the choke on and off at the handlebars I'm seeing the cable move which I'm thinking because the plunger is to tight. Can anyone give me some insight on this??

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[Goober]

Do you notice a difference in operation on vs off? If so it’s prolly ok

You can remove the starter valve cap and rest the valve in the cup. I’ve used needle nosed pliers to pop it in and out to check operation

 

[SamUK]

Trx250a carbs can be a pain in the butt at times, I had a similar issue, I polished the bore where the choke plunger sits. I used a light abrasive metal polish and a cotton bud, worked for me.

 

[Arcticcat340]

Do you notice a difference in operation on vs off? If so it’s prolly ok

You can remove the starter valve cap and rest the valve in the cup. I’ve used needle nosed pliers to pop it in and out to check operation

No difference whether choke is on or off. I'll have to unhook it and then test it by hand with needle nose

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[Arcticcat340]

Trx250a carbs can be a pain in the butt at times, I had a similar issue, I polished the bore where the choke plunger sits. I used a light abrasive metal polish and a cotton bud, worked for me.

I'll keep this in mind after I try manual testing it with needle nose to see if I can't see a difference

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[Goober]

Excess slack in cable sounds like valve not reseating Check for bent needle and bad o-ring.

Sounds like it starts ok? Then idles roughly when warm? Or no?

If it doesn’t like to start when cold the starter valve might not be opening (oring); if idles rough when warm the starter valve isn’t reseating

 

[Arcticcat340]

Excess slack in cable sounds like valve not reseating Check for bent needle and bad o-ring.

Sounds like it starts ok? Then idles roughly when warm? Or no?

If it doesn’t like to start when cold the starter valve might not be opening (oring); if idles rough when warm the starter valve isn’t reseating

The plunger and oring are both new. I also got a new cable off eBay. I'll have to mess around with it. I just rebuilt the original carb and put it on. Its running rich but I'm not sure if its the choke or just factory settings

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[fishfiles]

with the plunger out of the carb , you should be able to see it move when you work the lever , if you have to use needle nose pliers , I would think the cable is sticking , frozen or at the minimal just screwed up

 

[Arcticcat340]

with the plunger out of the carb , you should be able to see it move when you work the lever , if you have to use needle nose pliers , I would think the cable is sticking , frozen or at the minimal just screwed up

It moves freely when not installed in the carb. How easily should it slide in the carb? If I push it in I have to use needle nose pliers to get it out

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[Goober]

Should not have to more than a light tug—double check the part number or try using the old plunger

 

[fishfiles]

you can try to buff the bore the plunger slides in with some very fine emery paper of even toothpaste and a cotton Q-Tip swab , don't know if the plunger kit is till available for the 250 , they are pricey for a 300 , about $30 , but if you are going to play you got to pay --- shame you are in Michigan as I have a few carbs to fit that bike

 

[Arcticcat340]

you can try to buff the bore the plunger slides in with some very fine emery paper of even toothpaste and a cotton Q-Tip swab , don't know if the plunger kit is till available for the 250 , they are pricey for a 300 , about $30 , but if you are going to play you got to pay --- shame you are in Michigan as I have a few carbs to fit that bike

How much you think it'd be to ship to Michigan. So far I think my only issue is just this choke

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[Arcticcat340]

you can try to buff the bore the plunger slides in with some very fine emery paper of even toothpaste and a cotton Q-Tip swab , don't know if the plunger kit is till available for the 250 , they are pricey for a 300 , about $30 , but if you are going to play you got to pay --- shame you are in Michigan as I have a few carbs to fit that bike

I bought a new plunger kit for it. After messing with it last night I found out it can be pushed in more with significant force. I took it off and pushed on it with a screw driver and did go in farther slightly. To me that seems like its gonna take a bit of buffing to get it slide with only a little force. I'm not sure even if it was all the way down after pushing on it

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[retro]

Is it an OEM Honda plunger kit with a Honda part number on the package? It should slide in and out easily.

 

[Arcticcat340]

Is it an OEM Honda plunger kit with a Honda part number on the package? It should slide in and out easily.

It was this kit as I didn't have any of the original parts to the choke
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201959376530

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[Goober]

You need to buy OEM; the OEM starter valve will cost you $50. You’re paying for performance and reliability
You’ll ruin the carb trying to make the aftermarket crap fit

 

[retro]

Unfortunately, now you must buy the choke parts you need, again. I would scrounge for used OEM choke parts, or another used OEM carb complete. If you put any china carb kit parts in your carb (other than rubber O-rings & gaskets), you'll have to take those parts back out and put the OEM parts back in it too. You were robbed by liars and thieves, I hope you can at least get your money (item not as described complaint) back.

 

[Arcticcat340]

Unfortunately, now you must buy the choke parts you need, again. I would scrounge for used OEM choke parts, or another used OEM carb complete. If you put any china carb kit parts in your carb (other than rubber O-rings & gaskets), you'll have to take those parts back out and put the OEM parts back in it too. You were robbed by liars and thieves, I hope you can at least get your money (item not as described complaint) back.

I bought a shindy rebuild kit as previously recommended. Is that something I don't want either?

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[fishfiles]

I think Iwould take some very fine emery paper , say 600 grit , roll it like a cigarette , stick it into the bore for the plunger and twist and turn it around to clean it up , then if it is still sticky , some tooth paste on a Q-Tip swab , then some carb cleaner and compressed air to clear the port

 

[Okie]

I have a selection of bore brushes of different types and sizes, nylon, copper and stainless steel that I use to clean carb bores and other things. I usually start with the nylon type for soft metals like carb bores. can use tooth paste or even ATF fluid if it's just white powder crud that needs removed or polished.

Some of these bore brushes are for cleaning gun bores. the Nylon types have a hex shank are from flea bay and can be connected to a battery operated screwdriver. (and always spin or turn them same direction)

Do not get aggressive with your cleaning process and distort the bore. Also be careful when re-installing the plastic cap holding the choke to the carb, they cross thread easily.