[01SSRedA4]

I never intended on doing a swingarm swap on a bike who only had 500 miles on it. But, plans change. Here's the bike the day I brought it home:


I took it to a nasty ditch around the corner from the house. It let me down miserably.




I then added a Highlifter Signature Series 2 inch bracket lift.



And EPI clutch kit:



Then, I added 28 inch tires.




Then went and played:

 

[01SSRedA4]

Within about 50 miles, I was getting a bad popping coming from the swingarm area upon initial drivetrain loading. After reading up I realized the tires, clutch kit, and lift were probably all causing a ton of strain on the u joint. So after some reading I decided a 450 swingarm swap was what i needed. Plus the 28s were rubbing the plastic, and one day I'd like to have 30s on the bike so this would give me some additional clearance later. So I ordered parts based on what I read online. I bought a 450 Swingarm (used off ebay $50, part# 52100-HN0-670), 450 driveshaft ($50 new OEM Honda), 450 foot brake cable ($15 new OEM Honda), All Ballz SwingArm bearing kit (Part# 28-1056 02-04 tapered style bearings) and I bought a Moose Racing U joint for extra strength (part# 1205-0201). Here's the goods:







Close up comparison, Moose on top, OEM Honda 500 on the bottom: But, let's be clear here, Moose does not claim this joint is good for any greater working angle then a stock joint, it just "should" be stronger.



Let's examine these joints a little closer. Moose overall width dimension: 2.112

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[01SSRedA4]

Stock Honda piece is 2.021


Bearing cap O.D. on the Moose unit: 0.746



Bearing cap on the OEM unit: 0.667.



500 swingarm on the left, 450 arm on the right. I did a quick sand blast and repaint to it as some of the powdercoating has some rust.



500 DS up top and the 450 below.



500 swingarm 9.75 inches



450 swingarm 12.25, so exactly 2.5 inches longer



Honda 500 DS 6.25 long, 450 DS is 8.75, so about 2.5 inches longer here also...meaning drive clearances should stay the same.

 

[01SSRedA4]

Back of the 500:



The swingarm must be cut and re-welded to do this swap correctly IMO. I snapped a pic of the cuts I made. The first bend with be the bring the passenger side of the arm closer to the centerline of the bike and the cut towards the bolt holes will be to straighten the arm back up so it will align with your bolt holes on your axle tubes.



Installation is the reverse of removal. And, a highlifter 2 inch lift will still work and put you back to basically the original height but with a much more favorable u joint working angle. I made no changes to their lift EXCEPT remaking the outer brackets because one was found to be broken (after 100 miles). I will be contacting them about this failure as it in unacceptable in my opinion.



I did originally file the OEM plastics some because the 28s were rubbing slightly, now, 30s will fit with room to spare:






Looks like your back is gonna get slightly dirtier.



Bad news is the foot brake cable for the 450 is exactly the same length as the 500 meaning it did not fit. :dry: The hand brake cable had no trouble reaching. Questions, comments........

 

[RILEYHUNTER1]

That is a sweet ride! Any problems going through the deep stuff with the solid rear axle?

 

[RILEYHUNTER1]

That is a Nice ride, did you have to do any mods to the tranny itself? And with the bigger wheels does the engine bog when going through the deep stuff. I'm in the process of tinkering with my 2011 Rubicon I just rolled 200' down a steep hill in Ohio, Broke my left leg and ankle and 2 ribs. I bent everything back on my rubi except my frame so I'm tinkering with it to play in the mud.

 

[01SSRedA4]

Most holes here are rutted up by IRS bikes so yeah any SRA bike is gonna have trouble following. From my experience a 2 inch lift and going to 27-30s helps a ton but you can still get hung up if you aren't careful. I've made it through stuff pretty easy and see a bike come through with 25/26s and no lift and have to work to death to get over the rut. As far as the power the clutch kit helped a ton with the bigger tires. In deep stuff you still need to be in 1st for 4wd and you can pull 2nd in 2wd from my experience.

 

[01SSRedA4]

Here's my semi-twin riding bike:

 

[jcooperpcola]

Looks good. Are you having issues with your 28s and the front mudflap? My EDLs catch it alot.

 

[01SSRedA4]

They catch the support bar only if turned all the way with the suspension compressed.

 

[ben613]

Question....How will 30's fit in the front??? The 28's look tight.

 

[jcooperpcola]

My 28s hit the same then. My problem is the little flap under the floorboard. In deep water it gets caught in the tire. 30s will fit with a HL fender kit. If I was going to keep my Foreman, me and Deeper were going to custom mod forward a arms. Also keep an eye on your upper a arm mounts. Mine are starting to wollar out from the EDLs.

 

[01SSRedA4]

For 30s you would definitely need to extensively modify the front footwell support brackets. I would choose not to remove them as other people ride my bike and I wouldn't want to have to remind everyone every time to only step on the peg.

 

[01SSRedA4]

Wanted to update this thread. Don't buy the garbage Moose u joint. Here's why: and I've only put about 150 miles on it.