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I would suggest the following:

1. Ensure the right/correct oil is used. Personally, I use Honda GN4, but there are others available which meet wet clutch needs.

2. Be sure to put the oil filter in correcly

3. I would check/inspect other items while doing maintenance:

a) fluids (front and rear differentials) as well as radiator level
b) lubricate brake cables
c) inspect all CVT boots
d) inspect/clean the air filter
 

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Not unless you're hearing the valves. Not really much to check. They're either in or out of adjustment. I just hit 100 miles and I've heard no valve rattle. They will let you know when they want a little attention.
Keep in mind that this is PREVENTIVE maintenance he is asking about. By the time the valves become noisy they are doing damage and have been for quite some time!

Check and adjust the valves markzrt1. If you aren't experienced or have all of the tools pay a dealer mechanic to check them. There is a maintenance schedule in your manual... but those are minimum recommendations in ideal conditions. You can do better that that....
 

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When the valves are not clearanced properly each may be found to be lashed too wide, or lashed too tightly. You'll never hear a tight valve! And by the time you hear a loosely lashed valve, parts are getting hammered out to provide you with enough sound that you can hear it. Either condition is preventable. Thats what maintenance is all about.
 

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I believe it's obvious that a maintnce schedule is important. Some follow that guide and some don't. This goes with everything. However, companies know and realize that not many people perform the actual maintenance themselves. That in return is money in the pocket for the dealer if the maintenance is performed at the dealer which more than likely it is. I can assure you that I'm very keen on all maintenance and what I do is within spec and done correct. I can also say that within 100 miles, there is probably not enough heat cycles to even come close to worrying about valves. However if anyone sleeps better then by all means, check them out. I take that a 16 model with 100 miles probably hasn't seen a hard life
 

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The dealer says (as well as the manual) to check and adjust your valves at 100 miles. Not every 100 miles, just the first 100. The intervals get longer after that. I bought a 2017 rancher late last year, hit the 100 mark early spring and did the valve adjustment myself. I say adjustment, not check, because 2 of the valves were tight. Never made any noise or gave me any indication that there was an issue. I'd follow the guidelines set by the manufacturer. A little maintenance now sure beats head/valve replacement later. Its a pretty easy procedure so why not?

I believe this was stated earlier but I'll repeat it since its important. If your hearing valve noise, damage is already being done. Don't wait till they start making noise to check/adjust them.
Just my 2 cents.
 

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I'll add that performing the initial scheduled maintenance (100 miles in this instance) valve adjustment is the most important one that you'll likely ever perform on the machine. Why? Because of the initial break-in period increased rate of wear that occurs on every moving part in the motor. Betting your down payment & monthly payment investments on the factory assembly is a terrible strategy for long service life as well, IMO.
 

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Solid advice from retro...


The dealer did a full first service on my Bike for 250 Canadian... paid it... Keeps your one year warranty intact..

The dealer usually give you a deal on the first valve adjustment... Because like retro said, the first adjustment is the most important one...

My valves were out the second time they were inspected (By me) a year later.. just a couple thou though... But i got them back in spec..

Intake is .006

Exhaust .009

Double check that... But I think thats it...
 

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I always set them cold. Usually because its hard to get to most of the adjusters with the bike assembled. I know they do tighten up a bit when they heat up, but its not enough difference to matter. Lash will decrease roughly .005, dependent on temp, valve material, size of valve, etc... once the engine is warm. Again, not enough of a difference to matter.
 
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