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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I've recently broken the plastic splash guard which I believe to be part # 80121-HR3-A20ZA

Unfortunately, the service my 2018 Foreman 500 endures needs materials that can hold up to twigs in the woods, so I am looking to have a metal one to replace it.

Is this something that a welding shop can handle, or is there another route I should take? Should I order this part for a shop to use as a model? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hello all,

I've recently broken the plastic splash guard which I believe to be part # 80121-HR3-A20ZA

Unfortunately, the service my 2018 Foreman 500 endures needs materials that can hold up to twigs in the woods, so I am looking to have a metal one to replace it.

Is this something that a welding shop can handle, or is there another route I should take? Should I order this part for a shop to use as a model? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not the expert here but do have a thought about your problem. That splash guard was able to rip away when you hit whatever you hit. If you replace it with metal and hit something, not to mention if you back over something, I would be concerned that the metal will not break and the force might be transferred to your rear fender where it may break at the push connectors or higher up. The costs of a new fender is a lot more expensive than a splash guard. If I used metal I would be sure it was thin enough to bend fairly easily. Just my thought. I ride in a heavily wooded swampy natural area and understand your problem.
 

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You could fab a metal mudguard, but then the weaker component becomes the mudguard attachment points on the fender. So then perhaps that leads to a ripped off fender...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Perhaps it would be possible not to attach the metal guard to the fender at all? Attach the bottom portion of the guard to the step, and the upper portion to the rear rack?

I was thinking metal the thickness of the metal undercarriage accessory. I occasionally hear loud knocks of debris attempting to shove its way into the machine, so it seems to be a decent thickness.

Paths get hard to cross after hurricanes and timber cuts.
 

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Wouldn’t look pretty but you could zip tie the upper part of the fabricated heel board to the fender, shouldn’t break the fender that way. Or, you could tie a steel strap into the fender/heel board from behind the fender and attach it to the frame.
 

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Money and time is the limit.

I used a tig torch on my 1960s Lincoln stick box, bottle of argon, and tig welded myself fancy Dancy brushed 304 stainless set of custom made and reinforced splash guards, tied and wrapped and secured to the frame and such. Turned out nice.

$4 in scrap material.

I'm sure if you gave a welding shop $500 they can make a few small pieces out of a full sheet, and charge you the waste they'll keep to double fist on the next job.



Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

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Money and time is the limit.

I used a tig torch on my 1960s Lincoln stick box, bottle of argon, and tig welded myself fancy Dancy brushed 304 stainless set of custom made and reinforced splash guards, tied and wrapped and secured to the frame and such. Turned out nice.

$4 in scrap material.

How's about a pic , looking for some ideas ! --------- I would really like aluminum checker plate and have it rolled .
 

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Money and time is the limit.

I used a tig torch on my 1960s Lincoln stick box, bottle of argon, and tig welded myself fancy Dancy brushed 304 stainless set of custom made and reinforced splash guards, tied and wrapped and secured to the frame and such. Turned out nice.

$4 in scrap material.

How's about a pic , looking for some ideas ! --------- I would really like aluminum checker plate and have it rolled .
I used that diamond plate to make my saddle bag mounts for both my motorcycles, bought it at lowes 2x2 sections, was like 20 bucks give or take ?, but I did not have to roll it. its about 1/8th thick, it don't bend easy..but will bend. I guess with a rubber mallet, bench vise, and some careful smacks..you could roll it pretty good. maybe even wrap it around a large pipe ?, smack it down around that to keep it rolled even ?. one of these days I might buy me a the set up to weld aluminum, kinda high dollar stuff though..lol.
 

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Shade , I have everything I need to MIG light aluminum except the wire and I have never set it up , should put that on my bucket list ---I have played around with machines already set up , and my welds might have held but it wasn't pretty , and I am decent with steel welding ------- practice makes perfect

I didn't realize that Lowes had aluminum sheet metal -------I got the material covered , reclaimed , second chance stuff ------ the dings and scratches gives it that ridden hard patina -----
 

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Perhaps it would be possible not to attach the metal guard to the fender at all? Attach the bottom portion of the guard to the step, and the upper portion to the rear rack?

I was thinking metal the thickness of the metal undercarriage accessory. I occasionally hear loud knocks of debris attempting to shove its way into the machine, so it seems to be a decent thickness.

Paths get hard to cross after hurricanes and timber cuts.
Yeah I’ve seen Ute frames on older quads so something similar but smaller.
You have skid plates too?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I’ve seen Ute frames on older quads so something similar but smaller.
You have skid plates too?
Skid plate, A-arm guards, rear swingarm guard, bison brush guard. Also, if I had the mud guard fabricated, I might consider attaching a drip torch mount on it, or even something to hold a shovel in one position. These tools are imperative in burning which is coming up pretty soon.

Thinking of trying to find 120? degree angle brackets and sheet metal and doing this myself. Here's the torch mount: https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/ViewItem.php?item=85051&mi=15801
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I managed to have something fabricated that should suit my needs. Have a look, behold the awesomeness:

https://imgur.com/a/1bgLTgV

The plastic mud guard/step fits right over this cage like structure that screws into the frame and front and rear racks. It is totally removable and looks like a factory option.
 

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I managed to have something fabricated that should suit my needs. Have a look, behold the awesomeness:

https://imgur.com/a/1bgLTgV

The plastic mud guard/step fits right over this cage like structure that screws into the frame and front and rear racks. It is totally removable and looks like a factory option.

Looks great! Hope this works for you. It will sure add some protection for your feet. LOL
I have been friends for years with the owner of Forestry Suppliers. His catalog can entertain me for days. Hope you can add the mount you wanted.
 
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