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Discussion Starter #1
my exhaust pipe broke an inch before the muffler yesterday , so in the process of removing it from the 95 TRX300 mangaed to break off both studs that hold the exhaust flange ----there is about 1/2 -5/8 sticking out , tight quarters , any ideas of how to get them out without pulling the jug off the bike
 

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my exhaust pipe broke an inch before the muffler yesterday , so in the process of removing it from the 95 TRX300 mangaed to break off both studs that hold the exhaust flange ----there is about 1/2 -5/8 sticking out , tight quarters , any ideas of how to get them out without pulling the jug off the bike
yep, if you got enough room to run two nuts down the stud threads ?, run one down, then the other, tighten them together, use the bottom nut to unscrew the remaining broken stud out of the head. I do it all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I tried to start a nut and the threads are gone ---thought about drilling the threads out the nut and welding it to the piece of stud , the bottom one I know I could do , the top one I can't see it ------- I thought they were coming out , I was working it slow back and forth while spraying it with Aerokroil and thought they were turning , guess they were just twisting -------- worst case , if I have to pull the jug off , I have another jug that has been bored and fitted with a piston and rings , gasket set and a ready to go with valves stem seals already installed head , that was for another project bike engine ------ the bike was running great
 

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Hey Fish,

Take a look at this YouTube video on Electric Discharge Tap Removal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbeKxFBZrF8

It is the neatest thing for getting broken bolts and even hard metal broken taps out of a threaded hole. I had to get this done here in Shreveport for my grandson's 250ex when it got rebuilt - $75 a hole. Huge timesaver for those impossible to reach broken bolts.

Not sure that link will work. You can search for it on YouTube under the title of " Broken Tap Removal by Metal Disintegration Machine".

Rick
 

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I tried to start a nut and the threads are gone ---thought about drilling the threads out the nut and welding it to the piece of stud , the bottom one I know I could do , the top one I can't see it ------- I thought they were coming out , I was working it slow back and forth while spraying it with Aerokroil and thought they were turning , guess they were just twisting -------- worst case , if I have to pull the jug off , I have another jug that has been bored and fitted with a piston and rings , gasket set and a ready to go with valves stem seals already installed head , that was for another project bike engine ------ the bike was running great
tack a nut to the broken stud, then try unscrewing it. if you have a propane torch ?, heat the area up some, and as you are unscrewing the broken stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Rick , I have seen that video before , cool technology , but it is not going to help me , no way that could be done on the bike , and if I took it off then the $75 per hole would out weigh buying a new jug --------------I'd like to think I can drill them out if the jug was off , which is what I am trying to avoid

Rick , your a plane guy right , I went to an estate sale this weekend and the guy who died was into remote control air planes , and he had 6 really nice ones , one was a 4 engined (nitro powered ) bomber , it was huge , it was the one with the tail wing that went up vertical on the two ends of the wing , she wanted 400 for it , got a pic in my phone

I think I am going to give the welding a nut on the studs a try , if that don't work out , I am going to change the jug to a fresh bored one , I ordered a Caltrix muffler with pipe for $145 and free shipping , Partzilla has a price of $629 -------had a few mufflers around here and all don't look so good --------- found that the muffler on the bike wasn't Honda OEM , it was a slip on and clamped , and was the reason it broke , there was no bracket for the third bolt on the bottom of the muffler
 

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Hey Fish....I have used PB Blaster professionally for many years.....my opinion it is better than aerokroil. Also try to drill a small hole thru the aluminum 90 degrees into and thru the broken stud. This will allow the penetrating oil to get in the threads. All the other methods of double nutting or welding would be my first choice as well. Tapping with a hammer while turning clockwise then counterclockwise is recommended. I have seen rusted iron and galvanized pipes unthread by whacking the fitting with a ball hammer while turning.......works like magic! Hope you get it out bud....I hate it when crap like this happens to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks , MrClean for the moral support , I was off today as I have come down with a cold from the wife but didn't feel good enough to mess with it , buddy came over this evening and we looked at it , I think I have a shot at the bottom one by welding a nut to the stud , but the top one is going to be rough ------- I hope if I have to disassemble it that the head will come off without disturbing the bottom jug gasket -----you are right about hitting with a hammer freeing it up
 

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Hey Fish,

Take a look at this YouTube video on Electric Discharge Tap Removal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbeKxFBZrF8

It is the neatest thing for getting broken bolts and even hard metal broken taps out of a threaded hole. I had to get this done here in Shreveport for my grandson's 250ex when it got rebuilt - $75 a hole. Huge timesaver for those impossible to reach broken bolts.

Not sure that link will work. You can search for it on YouTube under the title of " Broken Tap Removal by Metal Disintegration Machine".

Rick
Wow!!! Did not know that such a method existed, great fall back plan. Thanks for enlighting me.
 

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ATF and Acetone works best, but Kroil is hard to beat.

Welding a nut on would be best, but if you can't get to one of them without taking the jug off, go ahead and take it off. Be easier to get to both with it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ATF and Acetone works best, but Kroil is hard to beat.

Welding a nut on would be best, but if you can't get to one of them without taking the jug off, go ahead and take it off. Be easier to get to both with it off.
I got home early and don't feel like messing with it or anything for that matter , I know I am going to regret it Saturday

ATF and acetone , I have heard it so many times how good it works and never tried it , going to have to give it a try -------- so many swear by PB Blaster , I have gone threw many cans of it , being I work on heavy equipment and it is cheap , Kroil is very expensive these days , when PB is on sale I can get 4 cans @ $4 each to one Kroil @ $16 , PB works but Kroil is the best in my book , just don't get the new blend called Sili-Kroil as I find it is not as good
 

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Only problem with the ATF Acetone is it eats most plastic bottles so mix a little at a time and don't leave it sitting in a plastic bottle around anything you like. When the Acetone eats the bottle it tends to make a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am glad you mentioned eating plastic , I recently put aluminum cleaner in a 409 bottle and it ate the bottle and made a mess
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, what a lot of work this turned out to be , tried welding a nut to the stud on the bike and it didn't work , they were frozen in there bad , took the head off , cut the studs flush , drilled them out , very hard studs used cobalt bits , ran a tap in them , also had to drill and tap one valve cover bolt that broke off in the head , took out the valves and lapped them and installed new valve guide seals ,cleaned the head and I ran out of gas on that for now , cylinder walls look great , but since I am down this far into it , think I will put a fresh bored jug , piston and rings from G+H that I have , cam chain is till tight so I am not going to mess with it , lucky I found some TRX250 exhaust studs and nuts that should work out , just waiting on the exhaust to arrive
 

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Just keep acetone in glass containers, also will evaporate quickly if left open. Knew a bio-chem major who used it to clean his (non glass) sun glasses years ago- was hard for him to live that one down. Lol still.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
after sleeping on it , I am not going to swop out the jug , and after checking the tracking number on my new exhaust , I won't be getting it till Tuesday , thinking of running the pipe as a straight pipe with an extension welded to it , I rode it about 20 minutes going home last weekend after breaking the muffler off and it sounds wicked
 

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fish, I don't know if you ever tried it ?. but I have used a propane torch to heat the head right there at broken studs, and with vise grips on it, I have been lucky to get them out. next time, weld a nut on the stud, heat the crap outta it right there where the stud goes in the head, and quickly try removing it then. I bet it will come out then !. you gotta get the broken stud almost cherry red ?, but it will come out !. least it has for me in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got the engine back together , and just had to started it up with no muffler to see if it would run , what a wicked sound , sounds like a hit and miss motor , but it was a good sound to hear it run , new muffler suppose to show up tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I need those floorboards!

I was lucky on those floor boards , I bought a blown rear end 300 parts bike for $200 and they were on it --------- I really like them , you can stand up and ride and also when you need you need to put all your weight to one side it makes a nice step
 
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