as you all know i have a problem that now im really stumped about.engine had a vibration from idle and got worse the more the engine reved and had had a noise that came in prolly about 1500 rpm and 3rd gear is when it got really loud and just gets worse. weve now got the engine completely torn apart and have not found the first thing wrong all bearings look good timing chain tights and guides look good tranny looks fine.anyone have any other thoughts to me it seems like an internal problem bc the engine vibrated from the time it started but im at a loss?
Engine torn apart and still chasing the problem
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What about the tranny? Did you take it apart to?
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i agree with helmut..sounds like the crank jernals are not lined up ??..also check your counter balancer..it may not be lined up right on the crank index mark ?..it should have a index mark that lines up to your crank..if it's not..you will get a very bad vibration.
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23,587 Posts
They will, but I believe this is a Fourtrax 300, which don't have the engine mount bushings.
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Yeah, I think all of the utilities have the bushings now, but the Fourtrax 300 just bolted straight up to the frame mounts.
yea its a fourtrax 300 no bushings nowhere.far as i know its never been completely torn down and yea did take tranny apart too its all laid out in pieces on the back of my truck.ill take a look to see if anything had slid on the crankshaft but would something like that be able to slide around and get out of adjustment during use?
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not likely..the counter balancer is geared to the crank..and the journals are pressed onto the crank. you could have a bad crank bearing ( these rest at each end of the crank in the engine case )..if any of these are bad..it can cause a bad vibration...try looking at those..and look to see how your piston is in the cylinder..mic it..see if it's out of round. something isn't right here..of course..you know this..lol..from all the 300's i've worked on...i've never ran across any that vibrated like yours is doing..i do know for a fact..if the crank journals are not lined up ( which i doubt yours has moved on you )..this will make yours vibrate..and the counter balancer plays a important part in keeping the motor balanced. the is also a bearing that the counter balancer rides in..check it out also..your problem lies somewhere in the crank bearings..counter balancer/bearings..they are not right..i've never seen them get off thier index marks..but..this don't mean it can't happen.
yea i checked the balance shaft its good its still meshed up gear to gear with the gear on the crankshaft but now i will check the crank bearings thats prolly the only thing that we havent checked as we just left the piston connected to the crank.
on a side note anyone know why the rear wheels would suddenly lock up after i remove the engine? the thing would free roll before i removed the engine and i tried to move it the other day and it wont move and i just jacked it up and obviously tires wont roll. i checkd the e brake and its off just another aggravating problem lol
on a side note anyone know why the rear wheels would suddenly lock up after i remove the engine? the thing would free roll before i removed the engine and i tried to move it the other day and it wont move and i just jacked it up and obviously tires wont roll. i checkd the e brake and its off just another aggravating problem lol
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the only way to check the crank bearings..is to split the cases..pull the crank out of them..feal with your hands..if you have any play in them ( kinda side to side play )..they are bad. not sure if you checked it or not..but..did you pull up on your connecting rod ?..see if you have any play on it ?..it shouldn't move much by doing this. the rear wheels shouldn't lock up..unless your brake drum is frozen ?..other than that..the u-joint in the swing arm might have gotten twisted up in the swing arm's drive shaft tube. unhook your brake cables..try spining the wheels..if it won't turn..then your differental is locked up..take the fill cap off..see if you can see any ring gear damage on the ring gear teeth ?
i pulled the plug and looked in course you cant see much so who knows think im just going to list it as a project and see if i find someone who builds them up or something has a pretty nice body and even the inside of the engine looks nice i can still see the crosshatchin in the cylinder ive owned this thing for 6 months and its been tore up 4 lol.
i gave 2800 for it in may and since its current state anyone think 1000 is reasonable dp for new one?
i gave 2800 for it in may and since its current state anyone think 1000 is reasonable dp for new one?
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38,589 Posts
if you have the motor torn apart..i highly doubt anyone is gonna fork up 1k for the atv as it is..spec if you haven't fixed the problem..lol..now..if it was together..and ran..then yeah..you could easly get 1k..but..from the way you have it now..nope..don't see it..not running..yu'll be good to get $ 400.00 - $ 600.00 as it is...get it back together..and get it running..then yes..yu'll get your 1k easy.
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