[Brandon D.]

Went to change the oil on an atv that hasn't been ran in a really long time after checking the starter and compression that seemed fine. The oil is so thick only a little come out and I can see down on there it is thick and pasty. Can you clean it out without taking everything apart? I'm down to frame and motor. Carb is off but I'm unfamiliar with the insides of a small engine.

 

[Goober]

I would top off with summer weight oil and cycle it around with the kick start several times. Pull the plug out to make it easier.
You might also put a speedhandle and socket on the flywheel (like you would if you were cycling engine to set valves). Maybe use and air wrench to cycle it around.
Cycle and drain, cycle and drain. Just to make sure you’re getting fresh oil up in the head.
I have heard people using seafoam to clean out the crankcase. But I haven’t needed to. Lotsa sludge can build up in the bottom and that’s where the oil pickups are

 

[Brandon D.]

I would top off with summer weight oil and cycle it around with the kick start several times. Pull the plug out to make it easier.
You might also put a speedhandle and socket on the flywheel (like you would if you were cycling engine to set valves). Maybe use and air wrench to cycle it around.
Cycle and drain, cycle and drain. Just to make sure you’re getting fresh oil up in the head.
I have heard people using seafoam to clean out the crankcase. But I haven’t needed to. Lotsa sludge can build up in the bottom and that’s where the oil pickups are

Thank you again and again. That's kind of what I had in mind but you made it more clear for me. I got in myself familiar with everything else on the ATV but inside the engines a little bit foreign to me. Haven't messed with that for over 20 years

 

[mrbb]

when oil in a motor gets that all sticky and tar like deal
it takes a LOT of work to get it out, as it will junk up in places and just STICK and stay pretty tacking collecting and holding crap in it
some things I know folks to have done
one, BEFORE draining, they warm motor up with a heat gun or like ways, to TRY and get oil thinner so it drains better and cleans out better
if you already drained or tried to, this won;t work really
SO option # 2 might be flushing motor with something like kerosene, or diesel fuel, and sloshing it about a lot, pulling motor over with pull starter(NO battery or plug in motor)
and repeating a few times

I have also known a few guys that heated NEW oil up, and then poured in HOT oil into motor and let it soak in some and then drained and THEN flushed

once they THINK it seems OK
then do a real oil change(filters being replaced a few times with above)
and the n running up to temp, let cool, and do again, and then drain and repeat till they feel good all thick nasty oil and junk is OUT
and then again, do a full oil change
its not cheap, fun, or easy to do, but, it can save you from a rebuild or worse, if a lot of crap is in there! and or blocks a line with being all gunky and thick, that breaks loose and then stops flow on you!

you drop a ice cube in hot water, it still takes time to melt, and a motor starving for oil; it doesn;t take long for things to go bad FAST

 

[Brandon D.]

when oil in a motor gets that all sticky and tar like deal
it takes a LOT of work to get it out, as it will junk up in places and just STICK and stay pretty tacking collecting and holding crap in it
some things I know folks to have done
one, BEFORE draining, they warm motor up with a heat gun or like ways, to TRY and get oil thinner so it drains better and cleans out better
if you already drained or tried to, this won;t work really
SO option # 2 might be flushing motor with something like kerosene, or diesel fuel, and sloshing it about a lot, pulling motor over with pull starter(NO battery or plug in motor)
and repeating a few times

I have also known a few guys that heated NEW oil up, and then poured in HOT oil into motor and let it soak in some and then drained and THEN flushed

once they THINK it seems OK
then do a real oil change(filters being replaced a few times with above)
and the n running up to temp, let cool, and do again, and then drain and repeat till they feel good all thick nasty oil and junk is OUT
and then again, do a full oil change
its not cheap, fun, or easy to do, but, it can save you from a rebuild or worse, if a lot of crap is in there! and or blocks a line with being all gunky and thick, that breaks loose and then stops flow on you!

you drop a ice cube in hot water, it still takes time to melt, and a motor starving for oil; it doesn;t take long for things to go bad FAST

Thank you so much. I've only been learning about ATVs for about a month and have learned about everything on the atv outside of the engine. Small engine knowledge has been about 20 years ago so I'm not familiar. I'm down to the frame only and have taken the engine off. Will be rebuilding everything and hopefully find a way to flush it out. If not I will learn to take it apart and rebuild. Thank you. I will try to flush if first.

 

[mrbb]

quite honestly IF you think your up to it, I would tear motor down, inspect all things, CLEAN RIGHT WAY, and have peace of mind that once all back together it will be good for yrs and yrs to come
you have it this far apart, why not go all in,
can save you a ton of work if you fill /flush and need a tear down soon afterwards
tons of guys on this site will help you thru the whole process if you need help or get confused,
great members still here that help and have tons of hands on knowledge willing again to share
also lots of youtube videos I am sure can help you
a service manual, if you don;t have is priceless too, worth having

 

[Brandon D.]

I think you are right. Was hoping for an easy solution and a more detailed solution on my next build. This is my first and was hoping to not get into the engine. Thanks again I appreciate it

 

[Nanook12]

You may want to pour stoddard sovent or #1 diesel through the crankcase to remove the tar. Make sure you get rid of that crap before you run that engine. If you can’t get it out with the above cleaners, you will need to tear it down.

 

[Goober]

if you want to try it, I found instructions for Seafoam use in crankcase on their website.
you might also be able to churn out some of that gunk by opening up the oil filter cover.
Just don’t rotate the engine to fast—careful with all those bearings

How to add Sea Foam Motor Treatment to crankcase oil

No Description.

seafoamsales.com

INSTRUCTIONS

• First determine the engine’s crankcase oil capacity. Most autos and light trucks have 5 or 6 quart systems. Check in your vehicle’s owner’s manual for the size of your crankcase. One 16 ounce can of Sea Foam Motor Treatment treats up to 16 quarts of oil.
• Add one ounce of Sea Foam Motor Treatment for every quart of oil in the crankcase. When ready, remove oil filler cap and pour the recommended amount of Sea Foam directly into the engine crankcase. Do not exceed one treatment per oil change interval.

 

[mrbb]

my vote says, since again, you have things torn down this far, why risk a flush, you will NEVER know if you got it out, no matter HOW many times you flush it, its still going to be a gamble
just think about how much work it will be if in the near future you have to pull it out again, split cases and rebuild THEN
what did you save?
think of the costs of all that flushing and filters and oil and ??
your not going to save anything
tear down, clean right, examine insides and replace any worn parts
in the end you will be much better off, and will have learned a lot in the process, making you better in the long run for it
and most likely even saved yourself a few bucks
as you will most likely use a lot less cleaning agents when torn down as to all that flushing!

 

[arowan]

Went to change the oil on an atv that hasn't been ran in a really long time after checking the starter and compression that seemed fine. The oil is so thick only a little come out and I can see down on there it is thick and pasty. Can you clean it out without taking everything apart? I'm down to frame and motor. Carb is off but I'm unfamiliar with the insides of a small engine.

does it have a oil pan plug if so take that and take it out and let it drain

 

[shadetree]

does it have a oil pan plug if so take that and take it out and let it drain

he didn't ask how to drain the oil ?, or course it has a drain bolt, ALL HONDA ATVS HAVE THEM !..LOL. he's asking how he can get by without tearing it apart, and cleaning it out the right way. which is what should be done just like mrb ^^^ said. don't have azz it, do it right one time, be done with it.