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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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you may be posting in the wrong spot; just saying;
 

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Honestly for alot cheaper you could send the cylinder to snure interlocking in ohio and have him install gt thunder hd studs aswell. He has done many of my builds and he has the legal rights to make and sell gt thunder studs. That would be my suggestion. Cant be more then 20-25 bucks in shipping total.
 

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Would I need to send the piston too? I know a long time ago you said a good machinist will need the piston to make the bore exact.
Technically yes if your building a competition engine, pistons are matched to bores. With today’s technology though and for an ATV a lot may not bother.
 

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Studs are 60. He charges i think 50 to install. I wouldnt think anymore then 80 bucks labor to bore and hone. Do send the piston he will want it. Jeff is a great guy to work with. Ask moose. His 426 has studs installed by jeff. Call him for his exact prices though. Im just going off memory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Webcam is probably what I’ll go with because I’ve heard hotcam isn’t extremely good. If I were to get a hotcam it’d be the stage 2 but webcam just has a bunch of numbers that don’t mean anything to me haha. I was just wondering which one would suit a 416 the best.
 

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Web 450/451 would be the only one web makes that dosnt go over .350 lift and require shortened valve guides. I would suggest high rev springs though with any cam you choose. And they all suggest hard faced rocker arms. Sucks you cant find a magnum stage 2 anymore because they dont require hard faced rockers as they are made of the same material stock cams are made of. All other aftermarket cams are hardened so they make you harden your arms to match. The numbers for the 450/451 are identical to the magnum stage 2.
 

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Actually there is a magnum on ebay. For 109.00 or best offer. They only have one so if you jump on it quick thats by far your best bet! Will save all the hardened rocker arms crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’d really like to pick that up but I’m not quite ready. So anything over .350 has to have shortened valve guides? And where would I get the hardened rockers?
 

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Webcams sells the hardened rocker arms. Yes anything over .350 lift requires shorter guides. And i know what you mean. Im pricing out getting my frame gusseted and powdercoated. Im in the same boat. Not even close to ready yet lol. That will be a winter project.
 

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Any engine machine shop will be able to do it. Snure could do it for sure. I think it does cost alot more then it seems like it should though. To me it seems easy but from what i understand it really isnt that easy. My engine guy measured mine with .350 lift and said it just misses by a hair. Anything more will crush the valve seals and start leaking and smoking very quick. He also told me without high rev springs the amount of float would make them hit the seal from time to time but more than likely be fine. I didnt like that idea so i do the high rev springs to make sure it dosnt hit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah I’m definitely gonna have to remember the word budget lol. Shoot mine is so stock I still have the stock tires LOL it’s only a 2013 but for stock tires they’re pretty darn good. What’s a good budget clutch in your opinion?
 

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EBC dirt racer is what i have in mine. Its around 100 bucks. I also did the 20% stiffer springs which were around 60. Yeah budget is how built mine also. Although the more i have been getting into racing the more that budget deal has kinda blown and i just work alot more hours now to afford it. Ill be dropping another grand this winter in frame gusset and PC. And a lonestar +1 1/4 swingarm. Just dont tell my wife haha.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I’d love to strip mine down and get it powder coated. I hate the stock look. Hideous I tell you! Haha. I saw on here that another guy was having the weird grinding noise I’m having and somebody was wondering if he bent a valve or something like that because he took the head off I believe and he said the sound went away. How exactly would that happen? Jump off timing and just bend it maybe ?
 

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If he bent a valve it wouldnt start for crap and wouldnt run much if it all. Valves are bent a couple ways. One is jumping time. 2 would be if the valve drops. Aside from that your not gunna bend a valve. Unless the crank lower bearing explodes. You will find the culprit when you take the topend down for the rebuild. It will be very obveous. That kind of noise is a noise of friction so something will have wear on it. Could be cam, rocker arms, timing chain. Any of them will show it.
 
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