[pkhansen13]

2003 TRX500 will start and run ok, and randomly dies and will not start electrically as the battery is drained. I can get it to start with the rope, but will die as soon as I put it in drive. Any idea where to begin?? Thanks in advance

 

[JohnnySolo]

Sounds like you got an old battery that's getting weak. How old is this battery? If it's not the battery then it's possible solenoid is going out, just not showing signs yet. But let's discuss battery first.

About dieing randomly. Check your air filter and see if it's black or yellow. If it's anything besides yellow, take it off rinse it off with dish soap and warm water. If you haven't cleaned the carburetor in a while, that's your problem. Take carb off and give it a good cleaning and get a carb rebuild kit.

Welcome to the forums!

 

[pkhansen13]

Battery is not that old, maybe a year. Have always had problems electrically (lights on and or running the winch kills it)
Was thinking carburetor as letting off the throttle quickly causes the issue.
Thank you for the help

 

[pkhansen13]

Air filter was replaced within the last month

 

[fishfiles]

Some thoughts of what I might try , a year on a battery isn't out of normal , especially if you have a problem or if the battery was a cheapie , I would charge the battery over night on a low voltage charger , like 1-2 volts , start the bike , put a multi-meter on the battery and see how dc voltage is being put back into the battery , should be around 13- 14-14.5 , if it passed that test , I'd disconnect the positive cable and put the meters' negative lead on the post of the battery and the positive lead to the cables , should read nothing or very minimal , if it has a draw you would see it , if you do have a draw , you could disconnect plugs one at a time till you find the circuit that it is on ----- you may also have a carb/fuel problem and be fighting two problems and trying to relate the two to one cause

 

[JohnnySolo]

Your quad shouldn't be dieing when you turn winch on. I would check what fish said to do. A quick thing you could do is take the battery to AutoZone and let them charge it for free and if it's old and doesn't hold charge they can tell you then.

 

[Goober]

Battery is not that old, maybe a year. Have always had problems electrically (lights on and or running the winch kills it)
Was thinking carburetor as letting off the throttle quickly causes the issue.
Thank you for the help

I don’t think the two are related. Your carb may need to be cleaned if you’ve never done it before. Use some Seafoam in your tank or Berryman Chemtool – this cleaner may mobilize some junk in your carb and cause it to run worse. That’s happened to me, check my links below for the service manual and buy an OEM or Shindy rebuild kit. Start a new thread in this cuz we love carb rebuilds

The winch and lights killing seems like a loose wire connector. Because the winch in typically an aftermarket install (do u know who installed?) try to follow the winch wires back to the two power sources. The winch power wires hook to the battery; the winch control wires are usually run to the accessory or headlight circuit. The control circuit and power circuits are linked by the contactor–this is a relay with four posts. So, multiple points for possible loose connections, abraded wires and possible low battery.

Please let us know: Did you buy a cheap battery? Do you keep your quad on a battery tender? Are the winch connections mounted on the battery first with the quad power connections on top?

Let us know how you’re doing.

 

[JohnnySolo]

What type battery is it (brand, voltage, amperage)

 

[c1v1c966554]

IMO, it sounds like a bad battery. Ive seen a battery read 12.8v fully charged, and not have any current output under load. I condemned a starter on a generator once, is how i found that out.

With a bad battery, your alt will struggle to keep its head above water..ie:13+volts. using a winch thats pulling massive current draw will pull the already struggling voltage down enough to shut the bike off. That said, your not doing your charging system any favors running with a bad battery.

Get it load tested at local parts store.

As stated above, use a multi meter in series with one of the battery terminals to see amp draw. Bike off! Be aware with bike on, most Common multi meter only have a 10A shunt resistor and it will ruin your meter.

 

[b52bombardier1]

IMO, it sounds like a bad battery. Ive seen a battery read 12.8v fully charged, and not have any current output under load. I condemned a starter on a generator once, is how i found that out.

With a bad battery, your alt will struggle to keep its head above water..ie:13+volts. using a winch thats pulling massive current draw will pull the already struggling voltage down enough to shut the bike off. That said, your not doing your charging system any favors running with a bad battery.

Get it load tested at local parts store.

As stated above, use a multi meter in series with one of the battery terminals to see amp draw. Bike off! Be aware with bike on, most Common multi meter only have a 10A shunt resistor and it will ruin your meter.

I'd like the above post way more than once but I only get one vote.

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

[pkhansen13]

Thanks for the ideas, guys! I will get a rebuild kit ordered and that way I know I'm starting fresh(ish)

The battery is an Everstart. I keep it on a low voltage tender all the time as that is the only way I get anything out of the electric start. Holding the charge seems to be the issue. I'll look into replacing that as well.
I'll update when I get some things replaced

 

[pkhansen13]

Dying quad! Updated

Pulled the carburetor off and replaced parts that came with my rebuild kit. Put everything back on and once I turned the gas on, it ran out of the overflow hose. What did I do wrong??

 

[Goober]

Overflows constantly?
My thot is your float valve is not seating; the rubber tip is damaged mis-shapen or too hard.

Try cleaning the brass seat with a swab and carb cleaner –careful if you damage the seat, you will not be able to replace it.

What carb rebuild kit did you buy? Shindy kits are pretty reliable. Consider buying an OEM float valve they are pricey. If it still leaks after that, buy an OEM float.

 

[jdp]

Im with everybody here, but I'd recommend after you clean the carb, use GOOD EHTANOL FREE Fuel if you can find it or if you only have the rock gut stuff, put Seafoam or a good stabilizer in it and keep that tank full.

 

[JohnnySolo]

Is it like pouring at a fast pace from the draining hole? If so be sure the flathead screw at the bottom of float bowl is screwed in all the way.

If it's coming from in between the float bowl and carb A)be sure every screw is tightened down all the way DON'T PUSH IT! Otherwise you'll strip it
B)check the gasket in between and be sure it's not broken

If all that checks out then next thing to do is take the float, pin holding float and the valve out. Get some metal polish and LOTS of cotton swabs and a drill. Clean that brass seat the best you can bc if you can't get it to stop flooding after this step. . . Time to get a new carburetor, unless you can find a way to get just that main body part. Either way that's a price I wouldn't want to have to do.
Hope it works out, keep us updated

 

[shadetree]

Is it like pouring at a fast pace from the draining hole? If so be sure the flathead screw at the bottom of float bowl is screwed in all the way.

If it's coming from in between the float bowl and carb A)be sure every screw is tightened down all the way DON'T PUSH IT! Otherwise you'll strip it
B)check the gasket in between and be sure it's not broken

If all that checks out then next thing to do is take the float, pin holding float and the valve out. Get some metal polish and LOTS of cotton swabs and a drill. Clean that brass seat the best you can bc if you can't get it to stop flooding after this step. . . Time to get a new carburetor, unless you can find a way to get just that main body part. Either way that's a price I wouldn't want to have to do.
Hope it works out, keep us updated

you would be surprised how many atv owners over look the drain bowl screw !!!..lol.

 

[JohnnySolo]

Is it like pouring at a fast pace from the draining hole? If so be sure the flathead screw at the bottom of float bowl is screwed in all the way.

If it's coming from in between the float bowl and carb A)be sure every screw is tightened down all the way DON'T PUSH IT! Otherwise you'll strip it
B)check the gasket in between and be sure it's not broken

If all that checks out then next thing to do is take the float, pin holding float and the valve out. Get some metal polish and LOTS of cotton swabs and a drill. Clean that brass seat the best you can bc if you can't get it to stop flooding after this step. . . Time to get a new carburetor, unless you can find a way to get just that main body part. Either way that's a price I wouldn't want to have to do.
Hope it works out, keep us updated

you would be surprised how many atv owners over look the drain bowl screw !!!..lol.

Oh I know it? we all miss the basics sometimes. Some more than others *cough* [guilty]

 

[pkhansen13]

1st time ever doing anything like this so saying I'm green is quite the understatement! I have pulled the carb back off and going back through and tightening all I can. The leak was constant and out the drain tube from the bottom of the float bowl.

 

[retro]

Goober nailed it for ya me thinks... Right here.

 

[JohnnySolo]

1st time ever doing anything like this so saying I'm green is quite the understatement! I have pulled the carb back off and going back through and tightening all I can. The leak was constant and out the drain tube from the bottom of the float bowl.

Sounds like that screw is either at fault or isn't in all the way!! Take float bowl off. Tighten that sucker in as far as you can, without stripping it. To be sure it is in all the way try holding it from a distance and see if you can see light through it. Or try run a wire through it.