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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was riding at a buddies farm the other day and slipped down a mud hill into a fairly deep creek. Water level came damn near up to the seat, or at least enough to where the rear end began to float. Engine wasn't shut off for about 15 seconds or so. Yeah, I'm an idiot. Anyway, I'm positive water got mixed in with the oil. Once I got it started after yanking it out of the creek there was a pretty decent amount of water shooting from the exhaust. There was also water in the air filter which I had to remove and dry out.

After I dried it out I starter her up and she appeared (and sounded) to operate as normal so we rode for another hour or so. My buddy told me it was good to ride it to "cook" the water out of the oil. He may or may not be just as much of an idiot as I am.

Check out the video I just took. You can hear the ticking. What's a "best case scenario" as far as cost and simplicity to fix? What's the second best case, and what's the kick in the sack scenario?
 

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Well i hate to ruin your weekend. But you did the only thing you shouldnt do after getting water in your oil. And that is continue to ride it. The video dosnt sound like its ticking that bad but your in for an overhaul for sure. The smoking is because water dosnt lubricate well and your cylinder will be more than likely washed of any crosshatching. The big issue is the unknown. Creek water is never clean water and all the grit in that water just sandblasted everything inside the engine. All the bearings, the rod bearing, the cam, rockers. Everything. Your best bet at this point is to pull apart and start measuring everything and visualy inspecting for abnormal wear. You can try to flush with diesel fuel but when you continued to ride to "burn off the water" is honestly in my opinion the worse mistake then sinking the quad in the first place. Im keeping my fingers crossed there isnt alot of damage but i fear your in for alot of work and money.
 
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I just watched the video.....

Some people may disagree with me but.. this is what I would do, and think.....


First off, I'd dump the oil, run diesel fuel through the motor to clean it out and get all the water out...

After your good... Id say the smoke is caused by the oil rings being compromised. You said in video you have good compression.. did you test it? Either way in my opinion, you will need new rings...

For the noise... I'd inspect the cam, valve clearance & chain. You may now need new valve seals as well...


Swamping a motor won't necessarly trash it. But it will require some serious attention.... Running it with milky oil can trash a motor though....
 

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Yea, you just ground down the inside of your engine into a gray, pasty, metallic pulp . . .

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks a ton for the input guys. {insert 4-letter word}

- Should I go ahead and pull the engine from the frame or just start with the top end?
- If I took it to a shop and told them to do what Wheeler suggested, what would you say that costs? City prices
- Is it of any value that I found zero shrapnel in the oil? Or maybe they are just so fine that they mixed with the oil and that's why's it's black
- How hard is it, and how long does it take to unmount the engine? Might try to pull it to save some money at the mechanics shop
- I did not check the compression. Feels and drives like it always did though.
 

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Even ballparking what a shop would charge is tough. Every shop charges different. Any shop worth a crap is going to advise against doing what you would be telling them to do. I wouldnt be surprised if most of them wouldnt do it at all. That route is based 100% on luck. Have i heard many stories of people flushing the engine and rebuilding topends and having it work? Yes. Have i ever gambled my hard earned money or someone elses on trying that method? No. My luck generally sucks so i would bet my money it wouldnt work before trying that kind of fix IMO. Its your quad and your decision so do what you want. I just hope it dosnt come back to haunt you. If you go that route.
 

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here is my theory , follow Wheelers dump , flush ( a few times ) and refill ---------- the smoke may be from the fact that water getting in the crankcase raised the oil level in the engine , the excess high level caused it to puke out some oil into the exhaust , after flushing and refilling , then run it a while and give it a chance to burn any oil in the exhaust out , it may clear up
 

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my .02's worth. no amount of flushing is going to save that motor if it got grit in it ?. sorry, not buying it. this is a 50/50 shot, if not worse odd's ?. I would not risk it. it were me ?, i'd be tearing that motor out, and apart for a correct way of fixing this mess, but hey, I don't have deep pockets ?..sooooo...lol.
 
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Scottbarski,
I purchased a 2013 Rancher that wasn't treated very nice and after I got it home started to hear and see things that I didn't like ended up taking it in and having the dealership listen to it (I'm not a mechanic myself) and they determined that the noise I was hearing was in the top end and they were hoping that it was nothing in the crank. They tore into it and ended up replacing the Piston, Rings, and Rod and just lightly honing the cylinder. I prepped the machine as best I could by taking off as much as possible to save myself that labor anyway. When it was all said and done was just over $700 but I have a great running machine now with no clatter. The guy that owned it before me just didn't do the regular maintenance. I hope you can figure it out and that it doesn't cost too much, if you plan on keeping the machine it is probably worth the $$$. From all that I've read the 300 is quite the machine. FF
 

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NOW one thing I will point out or question
you said oil was BLACK, NOT milky right?
so if that's the case, then doesn;'t sound like water got into the motor??
as water tends to change the color of it rather quick, all the more so if you ran it for a while(didn't watch video here , so?)

SO< if that's the case
you might not have gotten water or CRAP into your motor VIA water bringing it in

BUT if your having motor issue's NOW< and wasn't water caused,
maybe ALL you need is a top end rebuild

BUT as many here I THINK will agree, once your opening up.removing a motor, there is NO better time to open it all up and inspect all things and replace as needed

why NOT while your in there
better to do so NOW< than re do top end, drive a while and HAVE to go back in for something else

tearing it all down, will also be the BEST way to KNOW you didn't get anything in there and IF you did a chance to clean it all out

do it right, do it once.
is better than just hoping ,
no??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As always, thanks a ton for all the replies. One last ditch idea. Would it hurt to just dump some seafoam in the oil and gas tank and let it idle for 10 or 15 minutes? I started it up again this morning and the ticking seems to be coming less apparent. However I'm still getting a ton of smoke from the exhaust. Outside of that, the engine runs and responds as normal. I also don't think much if any sand or dirt could have gotten in. Let's just assume it didn't. Assuming that, and knowing the ticking has definitely reduced, is there any chance the damage if semi-superficial. Could the smoke be from oil in the exhaust. 95% sure any water that got in came through the air filter. Anybody have any major objections to running seafoam for a bit to see if that helps? Could water coming in through the air filter he damaged the rings and that's why I'm getting the smoke?

All that being said I totally agree with what everyone else said. The right thing to do is to tear everything apart and go through each piece and inspect for damage. I'm simply looking for a last-ditch possibility that somehow someway the symptoms wete superficial. Unlikely I know, but still worth a shot??
 

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You can't trash a 300 engine they are indestructible lol. Minor rebuild and you'll be back to 100% in no time. Follow Wheeler's advice.

This is good advice right here!

300's are bomb proof!
 
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i have a small camera on a flexi rod that I use to check bores and internal issues etc, I'm sure you'd be able to assess the degree of damage by using one rather than stripping it down.
 
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i have a small camera on a flexi rod that I use to check bores and internal issues etc, I'm sure you'd be able to assess the degree of damage by using one rather than stripping it down.


Not a bad idea but it would be tough to see much more than the top of the piston and cylinder wall. Tearing the top end off a 300 is pretty easy anyway, wouldn't cost a guy much more than a couple gaskets and an afternoon if it's your first time doing it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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i have a small camera on a flexi rod that I use to check bores and internal issues etc, I'm sure you'd be able to assess the degree of damage by using one rather than stripping it down.


Not a bad idea but it would be tough to see much more than the top of the piston and cylinder wall. Tearing the top end off a 300 is pretty easy anyway, wouldn't cost a guy much more than a couple gaskets and an afternoon if it's your first time doing it.


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I agree, for a definite verdict of possible damage a strip down would be the best option. Just had to mention my new camera/tool didn't I haha..
 

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i have a small camera on a flexi rod that I use to check bores and internal issues etc, I'm sure you'd be able to assess the degree of damage by using one rather than stripping it down.






Not a bad idea but it would be tough to see much more than the top of the piston and cylinder wall. Tearing the top end off a 300 is pretty easy anyway, wouldn't cost a guy much more than a couple gaskets and an afternoon if it's your first time doing it.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I agree, for a definite verdict of possible damage a strip down would be the best option. Just had to mention my new camera/tool didn't I haha..


Lol I see they sell them to connect to your cell phone for dirt cheap and they aren't too bad either, might have to get one myself.


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