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Please guys I've been working on these for too long... it's the stupid little $#it that holds me up every time. Well, on the 84, I was riding it around and somehow accidentally hit the positive side of the battery against the frame making it spark pretty good. I'm not sure how long this went on before I noticed. Well ever since then the neutral light stays on even when all switches are off and key is out. It doesn't stay on if you put it in gear though. Someone told me that it must not be grounded & I've tried to figure out the wiring diagram but I'm so beyond terrible with those. I'm a very visual person so if I basically don't have a picture or have the actual object in front of me I'm lost.
On the 87, all I have left is the freaking oil drain bolt. I was only able to get it out after a couple hours of fighting with it well I tried to screw it back in after draining the oil and it went go. It just keeps spinning. It's in it right now but just hanging somehow... I'm doing my best and nobody here where I am will help me even though I've begged them to & they are mechanics and do this kind of stuff all the time. I'm still a month late on rent and these 4 atv's are my only way to get the money to pay it, I'm just really needing help with this.

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chances are on the '84 ?, you shorted some wires some where on the harness ?. as for the '87 ?, your oil drain bolt hole threads are stripped out. you will need to trace down your wire harness on the '84, and for the '87, well..this is a tuff call, but !!!!, the best way to fix the oil drain bolt hole is to tap the threads out to a larger bolt. this can be done with a drill bit, and tap-die set, or a time-cert can be used. either way you do this, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT GET SHAVINGS INTO THE LOWER ENIGNE !.
 
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if ya was close to me ?, i'd tell ya to load it up, bring it by, and I could see about fixing them, but I am really busy with real life things right now, so it would be a bit before I could look at them.
 

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Shadetree- Do you have to have a drill or impact to do that? I only have a few hand tools.

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i have lots of drill bits, as well as a tap&die set, when you restore atvs like i do ?, you must have the right tools..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Shadetree- Do you have to have a drill or impact to do that? I only have a few hand tools.

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i have lots of drill bits, as well as a tap&die set, when you restore atvs like i do ?, you must have the right tools..lol.
I meant does what you were saying I needed to do require a drill or impact. Haha,my bad I should have worded that better. Someone finally helped and got the bolt out. Go figure. I guess throwing my brand new sockets and ratchet around and saying I was just going to move away to the other side of fort worth didn't sound too good to them. Ok.. so now the dreaded wire problem... I did take out the wires for the 10 amp fuse when I changed the solenoid out because one of the guys here said it was aftermarket. Even though it says something about a 10 amp fuse in the repair manual. I was just so tired & confused at that point that I took it out like he said.
I have much to learn....

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As you have learned there are consequences when someone cuts up a wiring harness. Its destructive... destroys value and reliability and leads to destroyed electrical components. It sounds like you are missing some battery hold down hardware as well, or you have the wrong battery in it?

The harnesses (& fuse assembly) should be replaced and the battery problem fixed right. I would check the ignition switch as the manual shows as well, in case high battery current fried the contacts in the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As you have learned there are consequences when someone cuts up a wiring harness. Its destructive... destroys value and reliability and leads to destroyed electrical components. It sounds like you are missing some battery hold down hardware as well, or you have the wrong battery in it?

The harnesses (& fuse assembly) should be replaced and the battery problem fixed right. I would check the ignition switch as the manual shows as well, in case high battery current fried the contacts in the switch.
I didn't cut them both 84's which came from totally different people and places had the same things connecting the fuses. I'm attaching a pic. I just left one off because I was told it was just for the led spotlight they had on it. There is extra because one is from the parts 84.. the second pic is the good 84 where the 10 amp was connected right around the 15 amp main fuse. Connected by the little blue box looking things in the first pic. (Never seen those before)


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Those small blue things are scotchlocks. They are total garbage... for cobble job destructive splicing only. You did right by removing them. Toss 'em in the trash where they belong and repair/seal the wires they were pinched onto.

Check the ignition switch per the manual next. But make sure the rest of the harness & plugs are not cobbled up anywhere.
 
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