[marlinman]

OK was looking over the manual, thanks to folks here, and saw something that made me go hmmm. Do ALL the Fourtrax 350's have a cooling fan for the oil cooler? I have never hear mine run, if it has one.

Also (sorry no picture) what is the rubber covered thing on the right side of the headlight, that looks like some sort of quick connection for a battery? I looked all over the manual and cannot see it listed.

Thanks in advance.

 

[retro]

OK was looking over the manual, thanks to folks here, and saw something that made me go hmmm. Do ALL the Fourtrax 350's have a cooling fan for the oil cooler? I have never hear mine run, if it has one.

Also (sorry no picture) what is the rubber covered thing on the right side of the headlight, that looks like some sort of quick connection for a battery? I looked all over the manual and cannot see it listed.

Thanks in advance.

Yep, they all have a cooling fan. It is automatic... it comes on according to motor oil temperature. You can test the cooling fan controller and fan by turning the key on and disconnecting the blue wire plug (86 & 87 have two wires green and blue, 88 & later have one wire) on the oil temp sensor (located under the small cover held on by two bolts at the extreme lower-right side of the motor) and momentarily ground the blue wire to the motor. While that wire is grounded the fan motor should run and the oil temp light on the dash should come on. Also while that small cover is off you can check the resistance using a multimeter, of the oil temp sensor. It should read in a range near to or at about 10k ohms at room temp. Its all covered in the manual.

One issue those all have is that the motor oil has to get really hot before that fan will kick on... Scary hot, well over 300 degrees! So, if your fan control and temp sensor check out fine but your fan never kicks on... that may be normal depending on your riding style. Its something to keep an eye on for sure! Some use a manual over-ride switch on theirs just for peace of mind... I intend to mod mine so it will be adjustable to come on sooner and I have proof tested that simple mod already.

The rubber thing on the right side of your headlight is the accessory power plug. It is fused through the Ignition switch I think... 15 amps. You can unplug the male half of that plug and take the outer boot/cover off of it very carefully... and you'll find screw terminals on each spade inside that you can attach wire to. On the outside covering of that male plug are two places to insert your wires marked + and - poke your wire holes there and push them in and screw them down.
You can hook up anything you want to that plug as long as current draw doesn't exceed 15 amps.

 

[marlinman]

Retro
Thanks, I browsed the manual but overlooked that part, obviously. Am interested in your temp sensor mod.

What sort of accessories are folks putting up there?

I also have one other question. My 98 has the headlights where the running lights are on the '86. Has anyone added headlights there or totally moved them there? If you place something on the front rack you are SOL for seeing where you are going.

 

[marlinman]

retro
I went back and looked at the manual under the cooling system and did not see anything on testing either the fan motor or the sensor. It just covered R&R.

 

[retro]

Retro
Thanks, I browsed the manual but overlooked that part, obviously. Am interested in your temp sensor mod.

I haven't implemented my adjustable temp sensor idea yet, since I'm only about half the way through my resto project. But I intend to do that when its complete. I am going to make it a plug-in affair, since I still have the old hacked up wiring harness to rob all four of the necessary plugs from. I proof-tested that idea HERE using a 100k trimmer potentiometer paralleled across the two oil temp sensor leads. Note: I'll probably order a different infinite-adjustable 100k pot than that one I tested the idea with, from mouser for the mod... one having a higher wattage capacity to insure it lasts for several decades. It will be assembled using solder and be weatherproof. I intend to put up a build thread for the mod when I get there... feel free to take the idea and run with it if ya want!

What sort of accessories are folks putting up there?

I imagine a gazillion different gadgets have wound up wired to those plugs over the years. Honda may have put them there for farmers and ranchers to use... not sure that was the full intent, but its possible. They've had spot lights, various emergency lighting, crop sprayer equipment, various pumps, additional accessories and lighting for the machine, 110v AC inverters, DC boost/buck converters ,etc. Use your imagination... got nearly 15 amps available to safely power your stuff, provided the RPMs are kept up. Some folks even put a bigger battery in their machine to extend the current draw reserve capacity depending on the need...

I'll probably use my plug to provide multi-voltage DC boost & buck converters (fully adjustable regulated voltages + adjustable current limiting) to power/charge everything I own from 3 volts DC up to 20 volts DC for my laptop. I imagine by the time I get around to adding my regulators I'll think of something else to piggy-back into it...

I also have one other question. My 98 has the headlights where the running lights are on the '86. Has anyone added headlights there or totally moved them there? If you place something on the front rack you are SOL for seeing where you are going.

Well, the Foreman (TRX350D) models from '87 up have 25 watts each accessory lights mounted in the front grill (vs. 5 watts each accessory lights on the TRX350), so you may be able to modify your existing lights with brighter Halogen (low watt) bulbs or replace those yellow lights with the clear glass Foreman ones... and add low watt Halogens to those. Maybe you'll think of something even better... bright LEDs might work if you can find some suitable. I still prefer Halogens over the LEDs on a vehicle though. Cheaper, very common and easy to find, and usually brighter, while consuming few watts. Your call...

retro
I went back and looked at the manual under the cooling system and did not see anything on testing either the fan motor or the sensor. It just covered R&R.

There is more info in Section 20 (Lights & Switches) including some basic troubleshooting steps and multimeter tests of each component. I don't remember exactly where I found the info to ground the blue wire going to the sensor... the FSM has info fragments scattered about in different sections, which makes it hard to keep track of stuff... But anyway, due to the way the fan controller works through decreasing resistance through the oil temp sensor, its logical that if you ground the sensor wire, the controller should kick on the fan and light up the oil temp warning light at the same time. The other tests covered in section 20 are all relevant too... so those should not be ignored. Before doing anything... make sure your fan motor is not seized up. It should turn freely and smoothly with your hand. If the fan motor is dragging or seizes up on an '86 - '87, the fan controller will be overloaded and can destroy itself quickly. On '88 and up models, the fan controller shuts itself down (to save itself) if the fan motor ever draws excessive current for any reason. I think the '88 and up models have the RRL CDI on them too... and its possible that the fan controller may be integral to that RRL signal line and shut the motor off if it detects a seizing fan motor. I'll study those schematics a bit closer someday and get my head straight on how that works... or whether it can't work that way.

 

[marlinman]

Well I already tested it (before your last reply) and fortunately it tested fine. The sensor showed 10.7K ohms, with temps about 80deg.

I get it now on the accessory plug. I have thought of a 12v 15 gallon sprayer, so that would work out just right. I like the spot light idea too. We live in the country and ride with friends. We have about 600 acres to ride, combining every ones land. Sometimes we are out right before and a little after dusk, so it might help to have a long range look see.

As for the headlights and available power, I might look into removing the existing one, and splitting the power from it to power twin headlights. I need to do some measurements but they look close in size to the 98 Recon we have. If they work I would have high and low beams to boot.

I have more questions, plenty more. I see the brake adjustment in the book, and have replaced both sides wheel bearings. What I cannot figure out, is how to rotate the tires/wheels to adjust the brakes. With it in full time 4wd, nothing wants to rotate. Am I missing something?

I was going to ask on setting the tension on the upper and lower ball joints (knuckle joints?) but found that, so I need to double check that.

On the brakes, I am 99.9% positive there is no longer any air in the front brake system, but I cannot get solid lever. When the RF wheel bearing overheated, the front brakes went to zip. It got hot enough there that the rubber dust cover on the wheel, started melting. I suspect it ruined the wheel cylinder seals. Am I on the right track you think?

If so I will order the kit. For now I will ride without front brakes. I can stop with engine braking and the rears, for now.

 

[marlinman]

I have another one, looking at Ebay, I see kits for the 86 and some have rings, some do not. What is the little ring for? Should I order a kit with or without?

 

[retro]

... I see the brake adjustment in the book, and have replaced both sides wheel bearings. What I cannot figure out, is how to rotate the tires/wheels to adjust the brakes. With it in full time 4wd, nothing wants to rotate. Am I missing something?

I adjusted mine on blocks with all four wheels off the ground and in neutral. With rear wheels and tires on it you can grab one of those and rotate the fronts easily. Crank the adjusters in tight then back them off 3 clicks. If you are putting new brake shoes on it they should be dragging on the drums pretty good when you get done adjusting. After you ride it a few minutes those shoes will begin to conform to the drums and drag less. This is normal...

I was going to ask on setting the tension on the upper and lower ball joints (knuckle joints?) but found that, so I need to double check that.

While you are in there may as well check them and repack with fresh grease. If you have any trouble getting the top knuckle loose (the one with the locknut on it) you can just take the lower one loose first and it may help you to get the upper loose. I had quite a struggle with mine...

On the brakes, I am 99.9% positive there is no longer any air in the front brake system, but I cannot get solid lever. When the RF wheel bearing overheated, the front brakes went to zip. It got hot enough there that the rubber dust cover on the wheel, started melting. I suspect it ruined the wheel cylinder seals. Am I on the right track you think?

If so I will order the kit. For now I will ride without front brakes. I can stop with engine braking and the rears, for now.

If those wheel cylinders had bad piston seals they would leak. You would see fluid leaking out of them, particularly when you lift the dust boots on them... brake fluid would run out. They could be worn out though... get new kits if you think you need them. Can you get OEM kits..?

Since it got hot there it might be a good idea to take each cylinder off and take them apart to have a looksee and a cleaning anyway. If the bores look OK the seals are probably OK... look for pitting in the bores and if you find some, sand the area lightly with 320-600 grit paper (whatever ya got) and scrub out the pits good (may have to pick at them to get the corrosion out) using alcohol to clean the bores. Then mix up some of the original formula slow setting JB Weld epoxy and rub a small amount into the pits with a clean finger. Let them sit 24 hours then sand the excess epoxy out until it only remains feathered around (and filling) the pits. Any deep pits will probably require a second application of JB Weld after feathering them down. You'll see that need when it happens...

Give them a quick alcohol wash (quick paper towel wipe then get out -- too much alcohol will attack the epoxy) then coat with brake fluid and reassemble. They'll work and last for decades if you change the brake fluid (bleed out old with new) every two years or so.

I have another one, looking at Ebay, I see kits for the 86 and some have rings, some do not. What is the little ring for? Should I order a kit with or without?

Each wheel cylinder kit should have a new dust boot and a new cupped seal for the piston. So only two new rubber parts are necessary for each cylinder kit. The only other parts that could be included are the two copper rings for the brake line hookup or the rubber bleeder cap..? Dunno... These kits may not be OEM..? If not OEM, be wary... cheap china knockoffs generally are useless junk.

All that aside, the biggest problem you have to overcome is getting all of the air bled back out. Its a bugger... shadetree has a bleeding sticky in the Brakes & Suspension forum that may help you unless you've read it already:
how to bleed your brakes !

Everyone struggles with those brakes, so I'm thinking about testing an idea I have out on my machine to see if it can be done easier. I'll post it up if it works simply and reliably. Gonna be a few more days before I can get some free time for it though...

Edit:
I have a good friend that lives near Salinas. You anywhere near that area? I had a ball in CA last time I was there... Rode my motorcycle out there once.

 

[retro]

Aye... I forgot about the rubber o-ring on the adjusters on each wheel cylinder. That could be the ring you are seeing in kits..?

 

[marlinman]

Well the ring looks metal for sure, so not sure what it is. I will hold off on the kits for a bit. I was thinking maybe the fluid would leak back towards the master, that kind of leak. The heat might have worn them early I suppose.

I did repack the bearings while I had them apart, figured just incase I couldn't find new one. But once they were repacked I realized they were plenty smooth, so not going to worry about replacement, at this time anyway.

OK, never thought of getting all 4 wheels off the ground. Will give that a try. I keep hoping there MIGHT be too much distance to give a solid pedal (lever?) feel, but who knows. At least I have all new brake fluid in the lines. Was kinda crusty looking.

I did read shadetrees post, but I am leery of clamping those old brake lines. I have done that before on older vehicles and cracked the brake line. Not a fun mess to fix.

I am about 120mi south of Salinas, about 8 miles north of San Luis Obispo, about 30 miles due east of Morro Bay. This is a WONDERFUL state, I just can't stand the elected morons that are running it.

I will get back out to the bike a little this afternoon. Been mowing this morning while it was still cool. If I mow the whole place it's an 8hr job, on the riding mower. Put 4hrs in this morning. Darn grass was higher than my eyeballs so I had to keep going over it.

 

[marlinman]

I live in Santa Margarita, well about 8 miles east of it actually. I live even more in the country. Towns population is about 1200. This music video is a local girl

, and is filmed mostly in town, and around the local hills. Her family owns the restaurant she is serving in, but I won't mention the name. It's not what is on the sign. I guess they didn't want it in the video, so I won't post it.

Nice country song.

 

[marlinman]

Well took it for a test run, after adjusting the front brakes. I need to loosen the LF a little ad the hub was almost hot and I never used the brakes. RF was cool which is good.

Slowly I will hopefully get all the little bugs out of this beast. So far I am getting quite an education from you folks here. Much appreciated.

 

[retro]

Been too busy to post tonight, sorry. My phone rang and it was my friend in Salinas, wouldn't ya know...


Sounds like you're making progress on it. I found some NOS OEM wheel bearings on the auction site for mine, $14 each I think, shipped. Popped those seals off and packed them all and put new dust seals on them. New steering stem bearing and seals, new bushings, sleeve and seals in the pivot with a drilled hole for greasing added, went through every part on it and cleaned, lubed and put it back together with new OEM brake shoes. I'm pleased with the front end on mine, but it was a lot of time consuming picky work that I'd like to avoid doing again for a very long time!

I been to San Luis Obispo and through Santa Margarita a few times... I hung out in Pismo Beach for quite a while with my motorcycle and had a ball in that area. Didn't want to leave, but had to head back home to make a paycheck.

I need to catch up on things... be back tomorrow sometime.