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Are there any cooling system upgrades for an '08 420?
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Cooling system upgrades?
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7,087 Posts
You can use a high performance coolant or additive, install a fan override switch to manually control the fan, a temp gauge to monitor temps. You can relocate the rad to the rack to keep it out of the mud, and allow for easier cleaning. But, as far as aftermarket radiators or water pumps/impellers.....there is nothing bolt on it would all have to be custom fabricated.
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I do run the Honda semisynthetic right now, but will probably go full next time. Mostly I was curious about higher powered fans, or a larger radiator.
As far as coolant, I've always considered most coolant additives snake oil. I am going to flush mine soon, and am all ears on recommended coolant though.
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As far as coolant, I've always considered most coolant additives snake oil. I am going to flush mine soon, and am all ears on recommended coolant though.
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76 Posts
While I'm at it I'm going to test the fan. It used to run all the time basically if I wasn't moving, and I didn't hear it run at all today. (The quad was just resurrected today after two years of no use)
I find I odd the fan didn't run at all today. As I understand it, I should disconnect the oil temperature sensor and ground it to the engine case. If that doesn't turn the fan on, I need to look at the icm and the fan itself, correct? Any test procedures for the icm?
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I find I odd the fan didn't run at all today. As I understand it, I should disconnect the oil temperature sensor and ground it to the engine case. If that doesn't turn the fan on, I need to look at the icm and the fan itself, correct? Any test procedures for the icm?
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76 Posts
What if one were to simply make the coolant reservior on the rear larger? In theory more coolant can remove more heat, yes?
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Evans Coolant or Engine ICE. As far as additives I've used the Redline Water Wetter and Lucas stuff both with noticeable results.
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7,087 Posts
Correct. There should be some info in the service manual for test procedures.
You can also tee off this wire with a switch, the other side to ground, which will create a override for the fan letting you manually turn it on, when off it will act as OEM.
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7,087 Posts
That bottle is just a puke tank I don't know if it regularly circulates with the rest of the coolant.
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8,309 Posts
I agree with mac on the suggestions for coolant and additives
and I also agree, making the tank bigger won't do anything, as that isn't being circulated at all, its there to adjust for pressure changes and the likes more than to add any more coolant to the mix!
NOW< if you wanted to some how add a larger oil cooler? then that would sure help to make it run cooler
but since so many folks have ranchers and run all sorts of riding types and places and styles
and so few need them
I think you have other issue's going on!
if your running this atv at MAX RPM's all the time and think this is whats making it run so HOT
my advice, would be BUY a bigger atv that can handle things better, rather than trying to mod this one to meet your needs
as its only a small HP atv, under 30 hp, and the longer you run it at MAX, the faster your killing it?
WHICH brings me to this, have you done a compression test ??
once you start to get low on compression, you can have running issue;'s when things get HOT, things cool down, they can run better?
and just cause it did it since??? doesn't mean it was EVER good on compression, could have been low to start with and well??
and I also agree, making the tank bigger won't do anything, as that isn't being circulated at all, its there to adjust for pressure changes and the likes more than to add any more coolant to the mix!
NOW< if you wanted to some how add a larger oil cooler? then that would sure help to make it run cooler
but since so many folks have ranchers and run all sorts of riding types and places and styles
and so few need them
I think you have other issue's going on!
if your running this atv at MAX RPM's all the time and think this is whats making it run so HOT
my advice, would be BUY a bigger atv that can handle things better, rather than trying to mod this one to meet your needs
as its only a small HP atv, under 30 hp, and the longer you run it at MAX, the faster your killing it?
WHICH brings me to this, have you done a compression test ??
once you start to get low on compression, you can have running issue;'s when things get HOT, things cool down, they can run better?
and just cause it did it since??? doesn't mean it was EVER good on compression, could have been low to start with and well??
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76 Posts
No, actually I can drive it hard at wot all day long and have no problem. It's when I drive slow for extended periods of time, or when it idles for extended periods of time I have issues. And have since it was a year or two old. After I drive slow a while or idle a while, it'll stall out if I give it gas, but idles okay. If I can get it moving at speed again it's fine, or if I shut down a while, it's fine. I've fought this for years. I don't usually do much slow driving so it's always been something I can deal with. But I'm ready to get to the bottom of it.
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There is no reason for me to buy a bigger ATV. I don't ask anything of this one it isn't big enough for. I weigh 180 lbs and trail ride with it.
And again, it's fine at speed. If I ride it hard I can ride it all day long in any weather. It's slow technical trails or idling around and going slow doing work in the yard that brings this on.
It seems as if, for whatever reason, the cooling system is inadequate if there is low speed, so not much airflow is going on. Or, perhaps rpms affect coolant flow? What sort of water pump setup do we have? Or, perhaps there is an electrical part that gets hot and doesn't act right. That's mostly what I was wondering when I started asking questions. Like bad coils on vehicles of olde.
Also, yes, the fan works. The fan runs almost non stop when I'm moving slowly.
Also when/if I ride Creek beds with some water in them I can usually ride slow and be fine without this occurring.
It doesn't show any other compression related symptoms. It's not hard to start, not low on power, no smoke, etc. But a compression test is easy enough. I wish I would have done one while I was changing the plug now that you mention that. What's our best way to shut off fuel? Is the fuel pump easy enough to shut power off to?
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And again, it's fine at speed. If I ride it hard I can ride it all day long in any weather. It's slow technical trails or idling around and going slow doing work in the yard that brings this on.
It seems as if, for whatever reason, the cooling system is inadequate if there is low speed, so not much airflow is going on. Or, perhaps rpms affect coolant flow? What sort of water pump setup do we have? Or, perhaps there is an electrical part that gets hot and doesn't act right. That's mostly what I was wondering when I started asking questions. Like bad coils on vehicles of olde.
Also, yes, the fan works. The fan runs almost non stop when I'm moving slowly.
Also when/if I ride Creek beds with some water in them I can usually ride slow and be fine without this occurring.
It doesn't show any other compression related symptoms. It's not hard to start, not low on power, no smoke, etc. But a compression test is easy enough. I wish I would have done one while I was changing the plug now that you mention that. What's our best way to shut off fuel? Is the fuel pump easy enough to shut power off to?
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76 Posts
Mostly unrelated, I'm considering a radiator relocation. I do hit some mud from time to time. I've had to stop and hose the fins out so many times. All the kits I see have a hideous logo though.
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I've owned two 2007's and one 2014. I've ridden them every which way a person can. Riding very slowly, stopping or pulling a load is about the only time I hear the fan come on. If your's stays on perhaps the radiator is clogged. My youngest daughter went mudding and clogged the fins. I had her take it apart and clean it herself to learn a lesson. This is the only reasonable explanation I can think of unless you have an internal problem of some kind. On the subject of coolant additives, I don't think it is snake oil. These products decrease the surface tension of water so it can cool better. 100% distilled water is the best but you have corrosion and freezing to be concerned with.
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