Clutch Questions and Funny Noise

10302 Views 22 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Fourtrax, Feb 20, 2010

Fourtrax

Discussion Starter · Feb 19, 2010

Hey everyone, I have two questions/problems I'm looking for help with. I have an 88 FourTrax 300 2wd that I've had for a little over a year. Bike runs great, always starts never had a lick of trouble until lately.

First problem is, I think the clutch is slipping but I haven't been able to figure out how the clutch system all works. My problem is not so much on take off but at higher speeds or when pulling a heavy load the rpms raise but I don't seem to gain any speed like it used to. I have adjusted the clutch with the screw on the side of the engine according to the service manual I have but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I did not notice this problem until after I pulled a drag harrow around for a while last summer so I think I probably glazed the clutch. However, what I don't understand is.. Are the two clutches? a centrifugal for take off and another one for shifting? I'm not sure which one would be in need of service.

Second Problem is a funny noise that the engine has made ever since I've owned it but never could figure out what it is. The noise sounds like "pinging" in a car engine combined with a rattle. It sounds like its coming from the top end of the engine and only happens when you drive at a constant throttle with a light to moderate load. Under WOT I don't notice it and at idle I can't hear it. My thought was cam chain? but I have no clue.

Anyway, sorry for the long post but, thanks in advance for any help.

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Helmut

· #9 · Feb 19, 2010

As far as the slipping clutch, the guys are right about the adjuster. It don't really adjust for slippage. It only adjusts the clutch free play. If it's already slipping, all you can do is replace the clutch discs. Remember to soak them in new engine oil first, before replacing them. Speaking of oil. What kind do you use? If you use an oil that has friction modifiers, it will make your clutches start slipping. Use ATV oil designed for wet clutches.

If you are going to try the timing chain adjuster trick that shadetree mentioned, an old 10mm socket just fits on the end of the adjuster. You have to tap it on with a hammer, but it fits good and tight and shouldn't fall off. I have done this many times when I didn't feel like replacing the timing chain. It will take the noise out of the engine, caused by the loose chain. I thought I was the only one that knew about that trick.

Shadetree, do you know about the 10 cent front brake trick? If not, let me know and I will fill you in on it. LOL.

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Helmut

· #11 · Feb 19, 2010

Fourtrax said:
I've been using Rotella T 15-40 (non synthetic) in it which from the information I read was safe for wet clutches and contains no friction modifiers. It also had the SJ and JASO certifications.

Here is SOME of the information I read about it before I started using it last year.

Welcome to the Shell Rotella Forum: Rotella Oil for Motorcycles

I've never used that kind of oil in ATVs, but it sounds like it should be OK.

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Helmut

· #14 · Feb 19, 2010 (Edited)

shadetree said:
helmut..if yer speaking of putting a dime in between the brake shoe lining..and pivot armm..yeah..lol..but..i've always used a flat piece of metal..cut to fit in and around the pivot arm.., < this trick is when your brake shoes are still useable > and yer too cheap to buy new ones..lol

Close, but not exactly what I'm talking about. I'm talking about putting the dime in the end of the master cylinder where the lever contacts the plunger. It fits in there perfect. This is handy when you're having a hard time getting a full pedal on the front brakes. Sometimes you can bleed and bleed and not get a good full pedal or lever. Sometimes even with new brake shoes, it's hard to get a full pedal. Just stick a dime or two back in there and you will get a full pedal a lot quicker. I know it's not the right way to do it, and neither is putting something on the end of the timing chain tensioner. These are just tricks you can use to you get around to doing it right. By the way, I'm just mentioning these tricks, I'm not recommending them to anyone. I can't be responsible if something goes bad. Use these tricks at your own risk. It's almost what you said shadetree, but the way I do it is a lot easier. I call this, the 10 or 20 cent brake job. It just depends on how many dimes you use. LOL.

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Helmut

· #18 · Feb 19, 2010

Those '88 models, like yours, is the best running and fastest ones they made. The '88 models had a bigger cam. '89 and up had a milder cam and are slower than the '88 models. I just sold one, not too long ago.

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Helmut

· #20 · Feb 19, 2010

shadetree said:
bikebandit is a great place to get parts..not only that..but to check out your bike to see all it's parts on fich !..as far as the front brake sight glass..if you want to replace it if it leaks.take a dime..and jb weld it in..works very good !..< only if it leaks >..other than that..if it's not broken..don't touch it ..if it is broken..it needed replacing anyway !..lol

LOL. The old dime hits the scene again. I'm starting to believe the dime is more useful than duct tape. LOL.

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Helmut

· #21 · Feb 19, 2010

Yeah, if it's not leaking yet, don't mess with it. We should start a thread to see how many places you can put a dime in a master cylinder. ROFLMAO

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