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Clutch Questions and Funny Noise

10299 Views 22 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Fourtrax
Hey everyone, I have two questions/problems I'm looking for help with. I have an 88 FourTrax 300 2wd that I've had for a little over a year. Bike runs great, always starts never had a lick of trouble until lately.

First problem is, I think the clutch is slipping but I haven't been able to figure out how the clutch system all works. My problem is not so much on take off but at higher speeds or when pulling a heavy load the rpms raise but I don't seem to gain any speed like it used to. I have adjusted the clutch with the screw on the side of the engine according to the service manual I have but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I did not notice this problem until after I pulled a drag harrow around for a while last summer so I think I probably glazed the clutch. However, what I don't understand is.. Are the two clutches? a centrifugal for take off and another one for shifting? I'm not sure which one would be in need of service.

Second Problem is a funny noise that the engine has made ever since I've owned it but never could figure out what it is. The noise sounds like "pinging" in a car engine combined with a rattle. It sounds like its coming from the top end of the engine and only happens when you drive at a constant throttle with a light to moderate load. Under WOT I don't notice it and at idle I can't hear it. My thought was cam chain? but I have no clue.

Anyway, sorry for the long post but, thanks in advance for any help.
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first off..that pinging nosie you hear..is your valves..you need to adjust them..and to answer your question on the two clutches..yes..one is for power take off..the other is for transmission..most honda 300's i've worked on..i rebuild the centrifugal clutch..but..seeing the age of your bike..your going to be in that side anyway..you may as well replace all of the clutch disk and clutch arm pads on both of them...kill two birds with one stone so to speak...you can try to just replace the tranny clutch disk..but..if it were me..i'd do both of them sinse the cover will be off..those gaskets aren't exspensive..but..no need in taking the chance in tearing it up twice..if you can get all your clutch problems fixed at one time :)..oh.and yer right about the nosie could be your timming chain..you can replace it if you want..but..a easy fast fix..if you don't want to tear into to it..is to take your timming chain slack adjuster out..get a piece of flat metal..wrap it around the end of the tensioner..make sure it will fit into the slack adjuster hole..then..before you try to slide it back in..crimp..or what ever you can do.to make sure it stays on the end..after you do all that..bolt it back on..yu'll need to take the center bolt out of the slack adjuster to take the slack out of it..takes a small screw driver to fit in..turn it as your putting the slack adjuster back in..this is to be able to get the bolts started..once you get it bolted up..start it up..and see if the pinging noise stops < this is if you haven't adjusted the valves first >..try all of this..see how it does...oh..make sure you get that metal crimped on good on the end of that slack adjuster..you don't want it to fall off into the engine :)..if you decide to just put a new timming chain in..and need any advice..just ask :)
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your correct sub..the screw that he mentioned..does in fact adjust the free play in the tranny clutch disk.and yes..he probally needs new weight arms on the centrifugal clutch also.
helmut..if yer speaking of putting a dime in between the brake shoe lining..and pivot armm..yeah..lol..but..i've always used a flat piece of metal..cut to fit in and around the pivot arm.., < this trick is when your brake shoes are still useable > and yer too cheap to buy new ones..lol
fourtrax..if your gonna replace the clutch disk..and cintrifugal clutch arms...i do think it this would be a good time to replace your timming chain..and to answer your question about how hard is it to get the clutch disk and arms off..not hard at all..just make sure you have a shop manual to go by..otherwise..you may not get it back together right...lol..hardest part about the new clutch disk is..is stacking them back in the right way..if you get them out of order..your up the creek..without a paddle !..lol..as far as you setting the valves..make damn sure you got the piston on top dead center on the compression stroke !!!!..i can't stress this enough...i've seen alot of ppl put the piston on top dead center..but on ex stroke !...from here on out..it's all a matter of lining all your punch marks..lines..which ever is on the cam sprocket..after all that..put it all back together..and you should be good to go...if you get stuck on something..just ask :)
lol..agreed..use at own risk !!!...i only do them if i'm broke..lol..other than that..i recomend that everyone use oem parts !..now me..i'll use what i can to get by..until i fix it right..lol..as stated people..use at own risk !
bikebandit is a great place to get parts..not only that..but to check out your bike to see all it's parts on fich !..as far as the front brake sight glass..if you want to replace it if it leaks.take a dime..and jb weld it in..works very good !..< only if it leaks >..other than that..if it's not broken..don't touch it ..if it is broken..it needed replacing anyway !..lol
how true helmut..lol...when it comes to honda 4 wheelers..it's allllllll about dimes..nickles..quarters..lmao..sooner or later the duct tape comes into play !..lol.
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