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I'm getting oil pressure to the 2nd clutch up to 110 psi but I'm not getting a reading at all for the first clutch? Any ideas or things to look for to solve issue would be appreciated. 2015 rancher Dct
Clutch issues
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Check the oil level. Even a hair low can cause problems.
What's it doing to make you check the pressure?
What's it doing to make you check the pressure?
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Oil levels good and it's the right kind. Clutches are slipping started with late engagement and a ruff sound when I accelerated from stop. Then lost 5th gear and wouldn't shift into 2,3,4 without letting off throttle. All this within 5 min. Let the bike sit while checking oil and a few sensors. Got back on it and put it into first gear only moved about 2 inches when I hit the gas. Let it sit a while longer and it went back to working but still not shifting unless I let out throttle and the shifts are ruff and noisy
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Pulled valve body off and it's got straight milk color oil in it. All the rest of the motor oil is clean. Oil has been changed probably 5 times within the last 30 hours put on the bike. Any idea what would cause this only in this one spot inside the front crankcase cover?
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Is it throwing any codes?
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It's not giving me any codes. No flashing gear indicator it shows every gear when I hit the shift button but won't actually engage until I let out the throttle.
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Hasn't been sunk since I've had it but I bought it used. I just put a 500 cylinder, secondary gear reduction, clutch stall springs on it. And it's not in any of the other oil it's just in the valve body that has the shift solenoid in it. And that oil is as white as can be but everything else isn't. I don't know if it has some type of coolant that runs through it or maybe an outside seal that could be letting water just into the valve
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I'm leaning towards something being clogged up inside the valve but I don't know where to start honestly without just buying a whole new setup new valve body and new solenoids
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Ok I was thinking a different valve body lol but did you put new gaskets on with the new cylinder? They are crush gaskets and not really reusable.
Don't give up yet Jeep will chime in soon.
I can do 420's blind folded but not automatics they're a different beast and he's familiar with em.
Don't give up yet Jeep will chime in soon.
I can do 420's blind folded but not automatics they're a different beast and he's familiar with em.
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Yea definitely put all new gaskets on. I just read that if a bike is sunk it could hide milky oil in the valve body for A LOT of oil changes. And I change the oil every time I do something new to it and 2 times with the new top end hopefully it just has trash in it.
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The more I work on this thing the more I think the guy I bought t from sunk it and tried to cover everything up. Did a decent job he just didn't know I was gonna tear it apart constantly.
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I think so too bad part is I jumped the gun and ordered centrifugal clutch shoes and drum and new disks for the other clutches lol guess it never hurts to have some spare clutch material around. Either way I'll just be happy when I can get this thing back on the trail with no issues. Gonna clean it up good tomorrow and give it a shot
Oil that is violently being mixed with air foams up & whips up into a "whipped cream" looking substance. Once air becomes mixed with oil in a closed system it is no longer a liquid and becomes compressible, which makes it heat up and those foaming/whipping conditions worsen. Oil is no longer a lubricant, nor a hydraulic fluid once air begins to mix with it.
My best guess is that air is being drawn into (or near) the oil pump, or possibly somewhere downstream from the pump where an o-ring is missing in the case/cover or a seal is bad/o-ring missing on a rotating (IE: one of the clutches?) part. After the whipped air/oil sits still for a while most of the air escapes and an air/oil mixture returns to liquid form... except where trapped in an enclosed space. Damage always occurs as a result if not detected immediately and remedied.
In your previous threads you described several other issues that all seemed to coincide with taking the cover off and modding the clutches (without using a service manual). Its possible (likely) that damage has occurred in one or more places by now, that might be very expensive to repair. Since it is now beginning to complain with awful noises, I feel that is a fair assumption.
Let us know how it goes...
My best guess is that air is being drawn into (or near) the oil pump, or possibly somewhere downstream from the pump where an o-ring is missing in the case/cover or a seal is bad/o-ring missing on a rotating (IE: one of the clutches?) part. After the whipped air/oil sits still for a while most of the air escapes and an air/oil mixture returns to liquid form... except where trapped in an enclosed space. Damage always occurs as a result if not detected immediately and remedied.
In your previous threads you described several other issues that all seemed to coincide with taking the cover off and modding the clutches (without using a service manual). Its possible (likely) that damage has occurred in one or more places by now, that might be very expensive to repair. Since it is now beginning to complain with awful noises, I feel that is a fair assumption.
Let us know how it goes...
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That would make sense but no oil anywhere near the oil pump or anywhere else under the front crankcase is milky in any kind of way it's only in the transmission valve body. None of my oil changes have been milky whatsoever. Is there anything you know of that would allow air into the valve body itself?
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Also I rechecked everything after putting the clutch springs in and nothing is out of place or missing had a washer fall out but never even turned the motor over until it was placed in the right position.
By the time you can begin to drain clean oil for inspection (or pull the dipstick after waiting for oil to return to the sump after shutdown) it will have already returned to a liquid state (motor oil has an anti-foaming additive that speeds up the separation process) so this condition (whipped creamy oil) can only be detected while the motor is running. Sometimes only by cracking open a pressure test tap plug (or using a gauge on it) can it be detected, as is common on automatic transmissions on cars and trucks.
The white oil found in the valve body is your proof. Air cannot separate from oil in an enclosed space, that is why it can be found there long after shutdown.
If that white oil in the valve body were caused by water, water would have to be present and available in the oil at all times... it would never separate. So water would obviously be visible in oil elsewhere, including your drain pan.
You can't blame this condition as being caused by a previously sunk motor either, because oil circulates through that valve body at high volumes and keeps it flushed clean... assuming there is clean oil in the motor. You've changed the oil, so rule that idea out.
So again, white oil found trapped in one enclosed hydraulic pressure system location only, can only mean air is the cause.
As far as taking a guess where the problem(s) might be in your case? I can't. I didn't take it apart or put it together... so no clue.
At this point I would take everything back apart that you have had ever had apart and look for possible damage that has occurred. Inspect and scrutinize everything. Take your time and be thorough... use the service manual constantly. Look for bad or missing seals or o-rings, broken or missing gaskets, missing washers, thrust washers installed in the wrong place, or in the wrong order. Make sure the aftermarket parts you installed are compatible with the motor AND are compatible with each other. Are they known high quality parts or cheap china...? Etcetera. Question and verify everything thoroughly.
Take the valve body back off and check for stuck valves and metal debris. When things go sour in a hydraulic system the debris gets trapped in the most confined spaces... which generally means valves become stuck, check valves and bleeds get plugged and valve bodies get scored and damaged. Handle it carefully, clean everything thoroughly and use a torque wrench (see the service manual for the order in which bolts must be tightened and tighten them in more than one step) to reinstall it.
Since the problems began as soon as you took the motor apart there may have been some critical mistakes made... in fact you know all about some of them, because you've been chasing them down and finding them one at a time. You are in a real tough spot now. Some things that might help you:
Assume the worse and hope for the best. It helps you concentrate and study, it slows you down and forces you to be methodical. And dump the ego, its useless... assume nothing. Keep a smile on too...
Take the valve body back off and check for stuck valves and metal debris. When things go sour in a hydraulic system the debris gets trapped in the most confined spaces... which generally means valves become stuck, check valves and bleeds get plugged and valve bodies get scored and damaged. Handle it carefully, clean everything thoroughly and use a torque wrench (see the service manual for the order in which bolts must be tightened and tighten them in more than one step) to reinstall it.
Since the problems began as soon as you took the motor apart there may have been some critical mistakes made... in fact you know all about some of them, because you've been chasing them down and finding them one at a time. You are in a real tough spot now. Some things that might help you:
Assume the worse and hope for the best. It helps you concentrate and study, it slows you down and forces you to be methodical. And dump the ego, its useless... assume nothing. Keep a smile on too...
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