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On a TRX200SX. I adjust my clutch as per the manual. Loose the lock nut, turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel slight resistance, turn clockwise 1/4 turn from there. The thing is, when I do that, and you are rolling and about to shift gears, There is a spinning/rubbing/rolling noise heard from the clutch area when you put pressure on the shifter in the UP direction, right before it clicks in to the gear. To keep that noise from happening, I actually need to turn the screw 3/4 turn clockwise from when I feel resistance.
I cannot reproduce the noise with the cover off. What is this noise, is it normal, or is something in need of some R&R?
OK Guys, after all this work, which can be argued was unnecessary, It's back together. All the bangs and pops of the clutch are still there, as expected, but so is the clutch adjustment!
Things I learned:
An impact wrench on the transmission shaft WILL take off the staked nut, even if you are going the wrong way, it will strip the threads out of the nut, but maybe the shaft too. For me, it did not. I was lucky. So...CRANK SHAFT NUT IS REVERSE THREADED AND TRANSMISSION NUT IS NORMAL THREADED! If you remove the nut with an impact wrench and it takes more than a couple of bumps to dislodge it and spin it off, CHECK THE DIRECTION OF THE WRENCH AND NUT THREADS.
Second....The adjustment cam that is in the right side cover has a PEG...in the cover is a HOLE...those two go together. Whoever did mine did not align it and it was loose and sloppy, this resulted in the 'spinning' noise at shutdown. The cam was laying on the clutch drum and dragging during shutdown AND use. SO...check that first. Also, you CAN NOT COMPRESS the clutch springs without the cover on. If you want to check to see if your clutch plates are not frozen, simply loosen all of the nuts on the manual clutch springs until they are nearly removed. There is enough play to separate each and every disc/plate in that clutch for verification. May not be enough room to put a micrometer on the clutches to check service spec though. For me, I had already removed everything before realizing it, so I put in new clutch plates.
I also replaced the one-way clutch bearing. It is expensive, but it SEEMS to work now. Before it was hit or miss and when I got the centrifugal clutch off, I could occasionally make the one way clutch fail. Not often...but it was enough that when running it wouldn't engage sometimes. So that's fixed.
Also, she shifts a LOT better. It no longer bangs through the gears. She is also HARDER to shift, in that the pedal is a lot firmer and requires more force to change gears now that its all firmed up and spring loaded as its supposed to be.
The only issue I have now is it dying when you slam the throttle, but I have already noticed an improvement on that when I adjust the air screw, so that's probably all that is.
Also, It creeps forward at idle now, not much, not all the time, but a little. I accidentally turned the idle UP and have now adjusted it back down, and that seems to be solved too.
I also put in MOTORCYCLE oil. 10W-40. It is wet clutch compatible and I can already feel the clutches being 'stickier' than they were before. They are also new, and soaked in oil before hand, so that may break in really nice.
Anyway, when rolling down the road, you can shift the thing as per the manual and she goes into each gear really smoothly and nicely, better than before.
She also got a new used side cover. The old one had a crack and leaked oil. Hopefully this one won't. The original also looked like it had been repaired via weld in one spot. I torqued to about 7 foot pounds. Firm, but not over done.
Thanks everyone for your patience and undying support in this most stressful endeavour.
Next thing on this is the breather cover gaskets. Leaking a bit onto the exhaust and stinks. Also need to put my new STRAIGHT tie rods on. LOL.
I cannot reproduce the noise with the cover off. What is this noise, is it normal, or is something in need of some R&R?
OK Guys, after all this work, which can be argued was unnecessary, It's back together. All the bangs and pops of the clutch are still there, as expected, but so is the clutch adjustment!
Things I learned:
An impact wrench on the transmission shaft WILL take off the staked nut, even if you are going the wrong way, it will strip the threads out of the nut, but maybe the shaft too. For me, it did not. I was lucky. So...CRANK SHAFT NUT IS REVERSE THREADED AND TRANSMISSION NUT IS NORMAL THREADED! If you remove the nut with an impact wrench and it takes more than a couple of bumps to dislodge it and spin it off, CHECK THE DIRECTION OF THE WRENCH AND NUT THREADS.
Second....The adjustment cam that is in the right side cover has a PEG...in the cover is a HOLE...those two go together. Whoever did mine did not align it and it was loose and sloppy, this resulted in the 'spinning' noise at shutdown. The cam was laying on the clutch drum and dragging during shutdown AND use. SO...check that first. Also, you CAN NOT COMPRESS the clutch springs without the cover on. If you want to check to see if your clutch plates are not frozen, simply loosen all of the nuts on the manual clutch springs until they are nearly removed. There is enough play to separate each and every disc/plate in that clutch for verification. May not be enough room to put a micrometer on the clutches to check service spec though. For me, I had already removed everything before realizing it, so I put in new clutch plates.
I also replaced the one-way clutch bearing. It is expensive, but it SEEMS to work now. Before it was hit or miss and when I got the centrifugal clutch off, I could occasionally make the one way clutch fail. Not often...but it was enough that when running it wouldn't engage sometimes. So that's fixed.
Also, she shifts a LOT better. It no longer bangs through the gears. She is also HARDER to shift, in that the pedal is a lot firmer and requires more force to change gears now that its all firmed up and spring loaded as its supposed to be.
The only issue I have now is it dying when you slam the throttle, but I have already noticed an improvement on that when I adjust the air screw, so that's probably all that is.
Also, It creeps forward at idle now, not much, not all the time, but a little. I accidentally turned the idle UP and have now adjusted it back down, and that seems to be solved too.
I also put in MOTORCYCLE oil. 10W-40. It is wet clutch compatible and I can already feel the clutches being 'stickier' than they were before. They are also new, and soaked in oil before hand, so that may break in really nice.
Anyway, when rolling down the road, you can shift the thing as per the manual and she goes into each gear really smoothly and nicely, better than before.
She also got a new used side cover. The old one had a crack and leaked oil. Hopefully this one won't. The original also looked like it had been repaired via weld in one spot. I torqued to about 7 foot pounds. Firm, but not over done.
Thanks everyone for your patience and undying support in this most stressful endeavour.
Next thing on this is the breather cover gaskets. Leaking a bit onto the exhaust and stinks. Also need to put my new STRAIGHT tie rods on. LOL.