I always just bleed them by pumping up the brake lever and holding it down while loosening the bleeder screw. Tighten the bleeder screw back up before releasing the lever. Bleed each wheel until all the air is out. Make sure the brake drums are on before bleeding. Make sure you don't let the reservoir get even close to being empty or air will get back in the system. Also, before starting to bleed, make sure the brake shoes are adjusted up.I am very new to this. Do I need a bleeder kit for this job or can I get away without one
I use that method sometimes, if I have trouble bleeding them by pumping the lever.Agree^^^^^ another easy way is to remove the resi cap and loosen the bleeders stick a screwdriver in the little plunger hole in the bottom of the resivior and let it sit there for about 10 min. dripping fluid just make sure you keep it full. close off the bleeders and refill resivior to spec level.
Yeah, it should pump up and get harder to pump. Try pumping the handle real fast. Make sure you have the brakes adjusted up good or you won't be able to bleed them good.If I pump the brakes should they get harder and harder (like a cars)? After a few pumps should I not be able to pull them?
i got an 88 300 and we bleed the breaks and i still dont have near enouff presure but the pisstons mobeI had a similar problem recently on a 88 300 , the right side was get no fluid to the wheel cylinder , it was a rust clog inside the fitting at the end of the hose , it was clogged up that it took a drill and bit , the 88 didn't have banjo fittings on the brake hoses like the later models do , I would think your 87 350 would have the same style fittings , a straight fitting with a swivel connectors to join the hose and wheel cylinder , try pushing a drill bit by hand thru the fitting