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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a well used '95 300 fourtrax a couple years ago. It has been burning some oil at start up so decided to try to do a valve seal job on it. So one of the long 10mm bolts broke clean off down in the head. Wondering if I have any other reasonable options other than taking it to a machine shop to dig out the broken threaded part? I think someone has done this job at some time in the past and they probably used thread lock on some of the bolts. A couple other bolts were also very tight but did not break. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Bought a well used '95 300 fourtrax a couple years ago. It has been burning some oil at start up so decided to try to do a valve seal job on it. So one of the long 10mm bolts broke clean off down in the head. Wondering if I have any other reasonable options other than taking it to a machine shop to dig out the broken threaded part? I think someone has done this job at some time in the past and they probably used thread lock on some of the bolts. A couple other bolts were also very tight but did not break. Any help would be appreciated!
This is a 10mm bolt or one that takes a 10mm socket?

Regardless in all the years if tried to drill, extract or tap, the extraction process gave me a better than 50% success rate and the drill and tap success rate would be about zero in this situation. Take it to a machine shop. I'm a dyed in the cotton do it yourselfer but for this one I'd gladly pay the pros.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
This is a 10mm bolt or one that takes a 10mm socket?

Regardless in all the years if tried to drill, extract or tap, the extraction process gave me a better than 50% success rate and the drill and tap success rate would be about zero in this situation. Take it to a machine shop. I'm a dyed in the cotton do it yourselfer but for this one I'd gladly pay the pros.
Thanks, that was going to be my choice also I think. I would probably just end up to make it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is a 10mm bolt or one that takes a 10mm socket?

Regardless in all the years if tried to drill, extract or tap, the extraction process gave me a better than 50% success rate and the drill and tap success rate would be about zero in this situation. Take it to a machine shop. I'm a dyed in the cotton do it yourselfer but for this one I'd gladly pay the pros.
Wondering if I just didn't do anything with that broken 10mm head long bolt from the valve cover and put it back together? There are plenty of other bolts that should be enough to secure it i would think? I know it would not be the best thing to do but maybe it would work fine that way. I just got the head off and all the rest of the head bolts were very tight but they did come out.
 

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Wondering if I just didn't do anything with that broken 10mm head long bolt from the valve cover and put it back together? There are plenty of other bolts that should be enough to secure it i would think? I know it would not be the best thing to do but maybe it would work fine that way. I just got the head off and all the rest of the head bolts were very tight but they did come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Had that happen on a 250 recon. It just leaked oil. Otherwise was fine. I would just leave it, use a little brake cleaner when it gets really oily.
Thank you for the reply! I was hoping to hear something like that from someone here! I figured I couldn't be the only one to try that. But I am bringing the head to a shop this morning. But if they can't fix it I am going to try that!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just got it back together and running. The new valve seals seemed to do the trick as far as stopping the oil burning. However I discovered that the cam chain tensioner is nearly all extended out when I put it back together. Thus the cam chain must be fully stretched. I am wondering how long it could go that way if the wheeler was treated gently?
 
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