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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally busted a bolt on my trx200sx.

I even used my torque wrench, but I put too much on the 6mm bolt, thinking it was a 10mm. The threads twisted off. Fortunately, the bolts are soft and the threads twisted off where I could back it out with a pair of pliers. I don't think the threads in the cylinder head are damaged. I torqued the leftover one down in the hole to 7lb ft and it seems to hold and spec.

Question is.....


What is the damn torque on this bolt? It is one of the two that hold the cylinder head cover to the block. Its a 6mmx55 bolt. The service manual just says to tighten it down. I'm thinking 7lb feet max?

Second question...since this 20 minute gasket job just turned into a week long project, can I get a different kind of bolt that will be OK without waiting for Honda parts? I need a 6x55 flange bolt, but no one has that locally. Hex heads, sure, but that needs an additional washer to be legit.

Should I order what I need and wait, or just get something else locally?
 

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Await a reply on here, I know I have a used bolt so surely somebody near you will have. If your happy with a used bolt that is.
Have you looked for a service manual on here? Torque settings will be in there, I should imagine they will only be 'nipped' up though.
 

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If you don't have the OEM flange bolt, you can put a replacement in it from the hardware store with a hardened washer. If it is one that normally seals with a copper washer or o-ring, just put some Ultra black sealer on it. I wouldn't worry about using a torque wrench on those cover bolts... just snug them up evenly and tight in a criss-cross pattern like the FSM shows and ride it. You can pull that bolt back out later if you ever get an OEM flange bolt to put back in it, so basically use what ya got on hand for now and ride it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have time. I can wait on the part. I am in the middle of playing with lighting options too, and I'm waiting on some lights. Wiring it is a LOT easier without the fuel tank on it, so its just as well. Plus, I HAVE been riding it. I just ride it for a while until I get parts for whatever the next thing on the list is. I wouldn't worry about this leak, but it runs down the front onto the exhaust pipe and makes a mess after a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Got it back together. Wow. I WAY overtorqued it. I put the bolts in this time, and just using my 1/4" ratchet I tightened them to snug...and even that was at least 80 INCH POUNDS...which is about 7 FOOT LBS. Thats plenty tight to hold. I did not realize my own strength. I took the other bolts to about the same and they too are firm, but not slammed. Now that I know what I know, It looks again like the previous mechanic wrenched all of those down way too tight as well, which may be the cause of the oil leak. That is a RUBBER O RING GASKET....they need to make contact and just kinda spread out a little. Smashing it down is not good and the old gasket was definitely flat and no longer round.

ANyway....I need to adjust valves now and I have trouble. I found the T mark on the fly wheel. However, I cannot get it to line up with the index mark. I can get it within 1/4". Is that good enough? I have the plug removed to avoid compression, but once I get close to it and try to line it up, the whole motor 'falls over' to a resting position. That position is with the T mark 1/4" to the front and the index mark in the valve adjustment cover perfectly straight up. I believe this is suitable.

Next question....the service manual says to move the adjusted counterclockwise until i feel resistance, but how much resistance? I can move them until they touch something, but then they can be pushed a little more pretty easily until they don't move any further. So...I don't know where to move them 1/2 index mark clockwise from. LOL. Upon further observation, I think this issue is related to the brand new o-rings I put in those valve guide shafts. They are lubricated but provide some resistance on their own. I think I have them adjusted right....I just don't want to damage anything.

Any advice?
 

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Got it back together. Wow. I WAY overtorqued it. I put the bolts in this time, and just using my 1/4" ratchet I tightened them to snug...and even that was at least 80 INCH POUNDS...which is about 7 FOOT LBS. Thats plenty tight to hold. I did not realize my own strength. I took the other bolts to about the same and they too are firm, but not slammed. Now that I know what I know, It looks again like the previous mechanic wrenched all of those down way too tight as well, which may be the cause of the oil leak. That is a RUBBER O RING GASKET....they need to make contact and just kinda spread out a little. Smashing it down is not good and the old gasket was definitely flat and no longer round.

Frankly, I don't use a torque wrench on small bolts. On those cover bolts I use a 1/4" drive ratchet like you did and tighten them all evenly by hand. With clean oiled threads you can feel the bolts stretching when they are tight... The generally accepted rule for proper bolt torque is to achieve .006" of stretch with a grade 8 (or better) bolt or stud. Lesser grades won't tolerate that much stretch without compromising their holding ability. So when you feel small bolts stretching a bit stop turning them right there. With experience you'll use a torque wrench a lot less often... I torque critical bolts/nuts/studs using a torque wrench when building motors because every one in the motor is usually an ARP with the recommended lube on them. On stockers... I'm a bit more confident in my own hands and common sense than I am using an awkward tool that is rarely precise from bolt to bolt.

ANyway....I need to adjust valves now and I have trouble. I found the T mark on the fly wheel. However, I cannot get it to line up with the index mark. I can get it within 1/4". Is that good enough? I have the plug removed to avoid compression, but once I get close to it and try to line it up, the whole motor 'falls over' to a resting position. That position is with the T mark 1/4" to the front and the index mark in the valve adjustment cover perfectly straight up. I believe this is suitable.
That should be fine... just make sure you are on the compression stroke (both camshaft lobes facing down) as you are approaching the "T" mark. If you jack the machine up so all four wheels are off the ground then shift into 2nd gear to provide some drag on the crankshaft, you should be able to creep up on that "T" mark and get a perfect alignment. But getting close is definitely good enough, as long as both cam lobes are facing down.

Next question....the service manual says to move the adjusted counterclockwise until i feel resistance, but how much resistance? I can move them until they touch something, but then they can be pushed a little more pretty easily until they don't move any further. So...I don't know where to move them 1/2 index mark clockwise from. LOL. Upon further observation, I think this issue is related to the brand new o-rings I put in those valve guide shafts. They are lubricated but provide some resistance on their own. I think I have them adjusted right....I just don't want to damage anything.

Any advice?
I'm lost... are you talking about the change clutch adjustment? If so, loosen the locknut and crank the screw until it stops, then back it up the recommended amount and hold it still while you tighten the locknut. Of course you don't want to turn the screw too far before backing it up... Turn it until firm resistance is felt (all the slop and "give" in the mechanism has been taken up) is all.

It can become a trial and error exercise though... So, once you get it set test it by starting the motor up... then put it in gear without releasing the shifter lever. Just put it in gear and hold onto the shifter. Then while still holding the shifter lever, rev the motor up as if you were going to drive the bike. If the bike tries to move at all anytime while you are testing, the change clutch is dragging and needs to be readjusted.

If you are talking about the valve adjustment rather than the change clutch...? You simply use a feeler gauge to adjust each one of those valves. The slot in each rocker arm shaft should have been aligned vertically and held in place by dowels (those cannot be turned if installed right) when you assembled the rocker cover.

If any of this makes no sense shout me out... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I am talking about adjusting valves. The user manual and service manual make no service adjustment using feeler gauges. It is using the designed adjusters. I have no idea how you would even use a feeler gauge on this machine. 1/2 a hash mark is .003...which is the recommended gap. You are saying I should use a feeler gauge? If so...I need a lot more direction on how that is accomplished on this motor.

As for feeling the stretch on a bolt, while I don't do this for a living, I have turned a LOT of bolts with a wrench. However, I'm not confident in my ability to feel stretch before I feel a broken bolt. Given that information, do you think that going 80 inch pounds on a calibrated wrench is suitable for a 6mm bolt? Frankly, a don't laugh, my method is typically to put my thumb adn forefinger on the head of the ratchet and use my pinky about halfway up the handle. When it becomes uncomfortable to turn the bolt, its tight enough. That's where I'm as on these. I do that, because I can gaurantee you I can break that bolt with a 1/4" ratchet used with full leverage. :(
 

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Ya, you tighten small bolts similar to the way I do. 80 inch lbs is perfect on a 6mm bolt.

I'm not familiar with your valve adjusters... You are probably doing everything right though. I think you may be a better mechanic than you let on... :)
 

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You work carefully and deliberately... I like that! If it isn't a lot of trouble to do....? I recommend that you check and readjust the valves after a good warm up of the motor and moderate speeds ride. Let it cool off after that work and heat cycle and recheck those cover bolts for tightness and readjust the valves. Then I'd ride the snot out of it. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I work carefully and methodically...yet somehow I break things. LOL.

Its no trouble, but this is a toy with no deadlines or customers. I got nothing but time, which is what makes it worse when a mistake happens.
 
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