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front , 300,fourtrax,4x4,1990, master cyl. rebuild , simple , but fluid wont bleed to wheels. system clean ! blew air through lines while apart . tried gravity bleeding all day , while gone , not one drop gone from master.tried priming master while off third time. nothing. tried to bleed with handle . nothing. master builds press. with thumb over hole but not after line is attached. SPOOKY ! clues ? no leaking fluid any place. had lines apart at wheels and at the tee under hood from master , were all blown out w/air. i never seen anything like it. bled lots o car and truck lines b-4 w/o trouble. even used pop bottle method b-4 but not on this thing.:wacko:
 

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If you unbolt the brake hose from the master cylinder and then fill the reservoir up, can you pump the lever and will fluid shoot out the hole where the brake hose bolts on?
 

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The hole in the bolt that holds the brake hose to the master cylinder isn't stopped up, is it?
 

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Bleeding brakes on quads is a pain!!! get you a oil squirt can the ones that have the spout the size of a pencil and the little can that unscrews so you can put break fluid in it you know the ones at autozone with the lever handle on them, find a piece of tubing that fits the allamite and the tip of the squirt can stick the hose on the allamite crack it oped and pump the fluid from the caliber to the master cylinder be sure to close the allamite after pumping, just keep doing this till all the bubbles are gone it is going to take a while, after that then start pumping the lever and holdind while loosing the allamite keep doing this till you get good feel on the brakes this is hoe i do mine works pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
brake

whole system clean . press. at master w/thumb over bolt hole and sm. amt. fluid when i remove thumb. will try oil can trick. maybe that will work. what r the air lines for on the wheel cyls. nevr seen that app. bfore. just wondering on that part. go to ea. wheel incl. rear also seem to go to rear axle housing.
 

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whole system clean . press. at master w/thumb over bolt hole and sm. amt. fluid when i remove thumb. will try oil can trick. maybe that will work. what r the air lines for on the wheel cyls. nevr seen that app. bfore. just wondering on that part. go to ea. wheel incl. rear also seem to go to rear axle housing.
Those lines are just vent lines.
 

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Bleeding brakes on quads is a pain!!! get you a oil squirt can the ones that have the spout the size of a pencil and the little can that unscrews so you can put break fluid in it you know the ones at autozone with the lever handle on them, find a piece of tubing that fits the allamite and the tip of the squirt can stick the hose on the allamite crack it oped and pump the fluid from the caliber to the master cylinder be sure to close the allamite after pumping, just keep doing this till all the bubbles are gone it is going to take a while, after that then start pumping the lever and holdind while loosing the allamite keep doing this till you get good feel on the brakes this is hoe i do mine works pretty good.
69Quadracer what a great tip.I tried bleeding the brakes forever and got nowhere.Your idea with the squirt can worked great and now i have front brakes.Thanks again.
 

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Vacuum bleeder is the easiest way.
 

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Bleeding brakes on quads is a pain!!! get you a oil squirt can the ones that have the spout the size of a pencil and the little can that unscrews so you can put break fluid in it you know the ones at autozone with the lever handle on them, find a piece of tubing that fits the allamite and the tip of the squirt can stick the hose on the allamite crack it oped and pump the fluid from the caliber to the master cylinder be sure to close the allamite after pumping, just keep doing this till all the bubbles are gone it is going to take a while, after that then start pumping the lever and holdind while loosing the allamite keep doing this till you get good feel on the brakes this is hoe i do mine works pretty good.
69Quadracer what a great tip.I tried bleeding the brakes forever and got nowhere.Your idea with the squirt can worked great and now i have front brakes.Thanks again.
Glad to know it worked for you, i have a better way know got to AutoZone and get a MightyVac Pump follow directions for bleeding motorcycle breaks works great, about 35 bucks and no more problems bleeding brakes and no mess.
 

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Bleeding brakes on quads is a pain!!! get you a oil squirt can the ones that have the spout the size of a pencil and the little can that unscrews so you can put break fluid in it you know the ones at autozone with the lever handle on them, find a piece of tubing that fits the allamite and the tip of the squirt can stick the hose on the allamite crack it oped and pump the fluid from the caliber to the master cylinder be sure to close the allamite after pumping, just keep doing this till all the bubbles are gone it is going to take a while, after that then start pumping the lever and holdind while loosing the allamite keep doing this till you get good feel on the brakes this is hoe i do mine works pretty good.
69Quadracer what a great tip.I tried bleeding the brakes forever and got nowhere.Your idea with the squirt can worked great and now i have front brakes.Thanks again.
Glad to know it worked for you, i have a better way know got to AutoZone and get a MightyVac Pump follow directions for bleeding motorcycle breaks works great, about 35 bucks and no more problems bleeding brakes and no mess.
This...vacuum bleeder. I wouldn't try it any other way.
 

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best way i've found..when it comes to bleeding brakes..spec if you have taken the system apart..after it 's all back together..take a pair of vise grips..clamp them on the rubber sheath that wraps around the line..about 3 or 4 inches from the master cylinder..pump the master cylinder up..until you start to fill pressure..then while holding the lever in..release the vise grips..this forces fluid down the lines..reclamp the vise grips..pump the handle up..rinse and repeat..in no time at all.you will force the air down to your brake cylinders...do not open the brake bleeding screws while doing this.
 

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Gravity bleeding works pretty good too. Just don't let the reservoir get low.
 

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best way i've found..when it comes to bleeding brakes..spec if you have taken the system apart..after it 's all back together..take a pair of vise grips..clamp them on the rubber sheath that wraps around the line..about 3 or 4 inches from the master cylinder..pump the master cylinder up..until you start to fill pressure..then while holding the lever in..release the vise grips..this forces fluid down the lines..reclamp the vise grips..pump the handle up..rinse and repeat..in no time at all.you will force the air down to your brake cylinders...do not open the brake bleeding screws while doing this.
I'd be afraid of damaging the hoses, and I wouldn't even consider it on stainless braided lines. The part that confuses me about this method is 1) why are you only 3-4 inches from the master cylinder? There is a lot of line between there and the slave/caliper. 2) How do you get the air out without opening the bleeder screws?

Gravity bleeding works pretty good too. Just don't let the reservoir get low.
It does, but it also takes a while.

One more method that works great, I guess it's pretty much the same as the pop bottle method, but can use a lot of brake fluid:

1. Get a couple feet of clear tubing, ID should be the same as your bleeder screw nipple (tight fitting).

2. Put one end of the tubing over the nipple. If the tubing is the right size, this will take a bit of force. The object is to get a good seal between the tubing and the nipple...I've used a small zip tie around the tubing to add a little extra assurance.

3. Get a large CLEAN glass jar...pickle jar, quart jar, etc. Set it on the ground below your bleeder screw. Cut the tubing long enough so the end of it sits in the BOTTOM of the jar.

4. Pour a couple inches of brake fluid into the jar.

5. Fill the reservoir.

6. Crack the bleeder screw...just enough that when you squeeze the lever you see air bubbling into the jar of fluid, or you see brake fluid being forced into the tubing.

7. Pump the brakes while monitoring the fluid levels in the jar and reservoir.

8. Continue this process until you no longer see air in the tubing / bubbling up in the jar.

Important: DO NOT let the reservoir run dry...you'll just pump air into the system and have to start over. If the jar fills with fluid, close the bleeder screw before removing the tubing from the jar. I personally don't reuse the fluid from the jar, I dump it out and continue with fresh fluid from a sealed container. You may have to do this for 5 minutes, let the air settle for 5 minutes, and so on...depending on the length of your lines and the amount of air in them.

What this does is forces air out into the jar of fluid, but instead of sucking air back in when you release the lever, it sucks fluid back in.

Brake fluid cab degrade many types of tubing, so throw it away when your done. I've always used vinyl tubing since it's available anywhere...but I never reuse it.
 

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One more method that works great, I guess it's pretty much the same as the pop bottle method, but can use a lot of brake fluid:

1. Get a couple feet of clear tubing, ID should be the same as your bleeder screw nipple (tight fitting).

2. Put one end of the tubing over the nipple. If the tubing is the right size, this will take a bit of force. The object is to get a good seal between the tubing and the nipple...I've used a small zip tie around the tubing to add a little extra assurance.

3. Get a large CLEAN glass jar...pickle jar, quart jar, etc. Set it on the ground below your bleeder screw. Cut the tubing long enough so the end of it sits in the BOTTOM of the jar.

4. Pour a couple inches of brake fluid into the jar.

5. Fill the reservoir.

6. Crack the bleeder screw...just enough that when you squeeze the lever you see air bubbling into the jar of fluid, or you see brake fluid being forced into the tubing.

7. Pump the brakes while monitoring the fluid levels in the jar and reservoir.

8. Continue this process until you no longer see air in the tubing / bubbling up in the jar.

Important: DO NOT let the reservoir run dry...you'll just pump air into the system and have to start over. If the jar fills with fluid, close the bleeder screw before removing the tubing from the jar. I personally don't reuse the fluid from the jar, I dump it out and continue with fresh fluid from a sealed container. You may have to do this for 5 minutes, let the air settle for 5 minutes, and so on...depending on the length of your lines and the amount of air in them.

What this does is forces air out into the jar of fluid, but instead of sucking air back in when you release the lever, it sucks fluid back in.
I've used this method too, but I always had trouble keeping the hose on the bleeder valve. Personally, I've never had any trouble just pumping the brakes up and loosening the bleeder screw. But if I've had the lines loose to change a caliper or something, then I usually gravity bleed them first. It's just whatever works best for each person, I guess.
 

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hey guys ive bleed the lines and it still has no pressure unless i pump the handle. when i waz bleeding them fluid was comeing out of all the bleeders with no air but still no pressure.
 

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hey guys ive bleed the lines and it still has no pressure unless i pump the handle. when i waz bleeding them fluid was comeing out of all the bleeders with no air but still no pressure.
Have you adjusted the brake shoe adjusters perfectly evenly until the brake shoes are stopping the drums,and then backed em off a few clicks until the drums will just turn with some drag??? Do this,then bleed the brakes one side at a time making certain the master cylinder stays full of clean,new appropriate numbered brake fluid...:icon_gd:
 

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One more possibility - are you sure you got the seals facing the right direction on the plunger when you rebuilt the master cylinder? If you have one of them backwards then you won't get good pressure.
 

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hey guys ive bleed the lines and it still has no pressure unless i pump the handle. when i waz bleeding them fluid was comeing out of all the bleeders with no air but still no pressure.
Have you adjusted the brake shoe adjusters perfectly evenly until the brake shoes are stopping the drums,and then backed em off a few clicks until the drums will just turn with some drag??? Do this,then bleed the brakes one side at a time making certain the master cylinder stays full of clean,new appropriate numbered brake fluid...:icon_gd:
Like deeper said check your brake adjustment never take the po's words for they have just done it when I was working on my uncles 98 fourtracks they told him they had just adjusted the brakes and still work working after I bled the system you still had to pump them so I adjusted the brakes and it will stop on a dime now
 
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