[86Hondatrx350]

Hello,

I have not used my 1986 Honda trx350 for a while and it’s just been sitting. Today I needed to use it for some utility work around the house and noticed that the brakes were still dragging a little from when I adjusted the brakes. As the driving went on the dragging wore off and the farther I had to pull the lever. When I was done for the day the brakes were not dragging anymore and I have to now pull the lever all the way to get the brakes to come on just a bit.

I took a vice grip and put it on the clutch side front brake line and pulled the brake, the left mag side tire wouldn’t move and it was hard to pull the lever. When I put the line on the mag side brake line I still had to pull it about half way.

It’s seems as if I can’t push enough fluid through or there’s not enough pressure. I remember about 6 months ago I rebuilt both of my brake cylinders on the clutch side front brake, I also remember not remembering what way the inner seal goes in and put it in a way that looked the best. I forget what way I put the seal but if I put it in backwards could this be my problem? what way does the seal go in?

Thanks!

 

[retro]

If you put a wheel cylinder piston seal on backwards fluid gets forced past that seal... so you'd see a gusher every time you apply the brakes. So thats not the problem... it probably has air in the system that needs to be bled out. Or the brake shoes need to be adjusted tighter on that side. Or the master cylinder is junk.

 

[86Hondatrx350]

If you put a wheel cylinder piston seal on backwards fluid gets forced past that seal... so you'd see a gusher every time you apply the brakes. So thats not the problem... it probably has air in the system that needs to be bled out. Or the brake shoes need to be adjusted tighter on that side. Or the master cylinder is junk.

I’ve already tried all of that at least three times. I pinched the line before the master cylinder and on the two lines near the tire and the lever would not move both times, does That mean the master cylinder is good?. I have bled the brakes and pumped new DOT3 fluid in each time so there is no air in the system. Don’t think I have the brakes adjusted wrong because both the sides were dragging a good amount so as it wore off wouldn’t they get to about the same distance on each side.

Next time it rains I’ll try to bleed the brakes again then adjust the brakes on each side again, hopefully after the fourth time it’ll work.

 

[retro]

It sounds like the master cylinder is fine. That leaves brake shoe adjustments and air in the system as the two most likely remaining possibles.

Do you use two clear vinyl hoses on the loosened bleeder (teflon tape wrapped threads prevent air from re-entering around those loosened bleeders) nipples, looped over the top of the knuckles with those hose ends submerged in a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom of two small containers? If not, try it next time you bleed the brakes, you'll like it!

 

[fishfiles]

....I have seen where it gets rusted inside the brake hose fitting and creates a blockage... disconnect the fitting at the brake and pump it , see if a good flow is coming out

 

[SamUK]

Adjust the shoes until there solid against the drums and bleed the system again. Bleeding Honda brakes is a real pain in the butt! To me it sounds like you have air in the system. I’ve had terrible luck bleeding my old 300 brakes and then great luck bleeding my 450 brakes. I’ve always used dot 4 fluid and bled a side at a time

 

[LedFTed]

Bleeding those breaks, is bout a two man job, or two ladies. PC talk.
[politically correct]

 

[_Wilson_]

Dead wrong Ted, It's one man job!

I reckon some lack in mechanical skill .......

 

[86Hondatrx350]

....I have seen where it gets rusted inside the brake hose fitting and creates a blockage... disconnect the fitting at the brake and pump it , see if a good flow is coming out

Adjust the shoes until there solid against the drums and bleed the system again. Bleeding Honda brakes is a real pain in the butt! To me it sounds like you have air in the system. I’ve had terrible luck bleeding my old 300 brakes and then great luck bleeding my 450 brakes. I’ve always used dot 4 fluid and bled a side at a time

Bleeding those breaks, is bout a two man job, or two ladies. PC talk.
[politically correct]

Dead wrong Ted, It's one man job!

I reckon some lack in mechanical skill .......

Huh, never though of air going back into the system, will use some Teflon tape to seal the nipple next time. Will also try the hose and bottle.

Don’t think it’s a blockage because wouldn’t the lever become more stiff? If nothing else works I’ll try it though.

I’ve always pumped my lever than released the nipple instead of adjusting them out but will do that this time.

One hand on the lever and one hand on the wrench, that’s the way I do it at least!

Thank you everyone for the quick and helpful responses!

 

[retro]

Each shoe has to be adjusted out tight against the drum as SamUK mentioned, else air stays inside the wheel cylinders when bled.

 

[86Hondatrx350]

Each shoe has to be adjusted out tight against the drum as SamUK mentioned, else air stays inside the wheel cylinders when bled.

This could be my problem then. How is it possible to do this if when I adjust one out it pushes against the drum stopping me from turning the drum hole to the other cylinder adjustment on the opposite side?

 

[retro]

I do the final adjustments before I bleed... it saves a step. It goes like so...

1) Tighten up an adjuster until the shoe locks the drum up tight, AND you feel resistance to turning on the adjuster.

2) Loosen that adjuster 3 clicks. That shoe is done, final... you won't have to come back to it later.

3) Turn the drum until the opposite adjuster is lined up in the window.

4) Repeat steps 1 through 3 on each of the remaining adjusters.

5) Bleed all of the air out of the system.

6) Ride it.

 

[SamUK]

I do the final adjustments before I bleed... it saves a step. It goes like so...

1) Tighten up an adjuster until the shoe locks the drum up tight, AND you feel resistance to turning on the adjuster.

2) Loosen that adjuster 3 clicks. That shoe is done, final... you won't have to come back to it later.

3) Turn the drum until the opposite adjuster is lined up in the window.

4) Repeat steps 1 through 3 on each of the remaining adjusters.

5) Bleed all of the air out of the system.

6) Ride it.

^^ This ^^

Even if the brakes drag afterwards just ride it until they don't, the only alternative is a brake disc converstion which will set you back a few hundred dollars.

 

[86Hondatrx350]

....I have seen where it gets rusted inside the brake hose fitting and creates a blockage... disconnect the fitting at the brake and pump it , see if a good flow is coming out

Bleeding those breaks, is bout a two man job, or two ladies. PC talk.
[politically correct]

Dead wrong Ted, It's one man job!

I reckon some lack in mechanical skill .......

On Sunday I got up and did exactly what you guys said and I think it’s really fixed this time! Before making my response I wanted to make sure it was a permanent fix unlike before where it went back. But it hasn’t gone back in the few hours that I’ve ridden it. If it still wasn’t fixed it would go back in the first hour. The lever lost a little bit of tension when the brakes stopped dragging but hasn’t changed since.

Thanks to everyone who helped me fix this annoying problem!