[divedakota]

Bought a 02 rancher. The rear foot brake is locked up. Tried wheel puller, crow bar, heat, WD-40. Finally got it to move a little but unable to pull it off the shaft to clean it or replace if needed. Any other ideas?
Nick

 

[TRX2fiveO]

Can you get the adjuster to back off??? pull the rubber plug out and back off the drum and see what happens. Good luck and Welcome to the Forums

 

[mud99]

Have you loosened up the wing nuts on the back?

 

[cajun4]

Had the same problem with an '02 Recon I just bought. There are rubber dust boots on the front and back of that pedal housing. Dig the front one out (behind the cotter pin and washer). I used an ice pick and got it out. Then you'll be able to get some penetrating oil behind that seal. I used PB Blaster - it's good stuff. I was then able to start wiggling it slighly. I used a crow bar behind it and had someone put some weight on the crow bar while I banged on the footpedal till it got moving a bit. Once you get it moving up and down, it actually comes off pretty easy. Once off I took some sandpaper and ran inside that sleeve and on the shaft. I think some of that rubber had gotten up in there and clogged it up. Once I got it cleaned out it just slid right back on and works great. I didn't bother replacing the dust boots but I'm sure Honda would recommend that. Hope that helps!

 

[Redracer]

Had the same problem with an '02 Recon I just bought. There are rubber dust boots on the front and back of that petal housing. Dig the front one out (behind the cotter pin and washer). I used an ice pick and got it out. Then you'll be able to get some penetrating oil behind that seal. I used PB Blaster - it's good stuff. I was then able to start wiggling it. I used a crow bar behind it and had someone put some weight on the crow bar while I banged on the footpetal till it got moving a bit. Once you get it moving it actually comes off pretty easy. Once off I took some sandpaper and ran inside that sleave. i think some of that rubber had gotten up in there and clogged it up. Once I got it cleaned out it just slid right back on. I didn't bother replacing the dust boot but I'm sure Honda would recommend that. Hope that helps!

Excellent instructions, thank you very much for posting.:yeahbaby01:

 

[cajun4]

Getting that dust boot off is the key. Since you put heat to it it's probably good and melted in there! HA! I just read my post don't know why I spelled pedal "petal" - must have had flowers on my brain!

 

[TRX2fiveO]

Tulips or Dasies? LMAO good post I mis read. he's probably scratching his head looking for the drum behind the "petal" after reading my post. lol

I just read my post don't know why I spelled pedal "petal" - must have had flowers on my brain!

 

[mud99]

Moose is getting slow in his old age.LOL

 

[NC Rebel]

Great instructions cajun4. That is what I did on my '05 Rancher to free the pedal. Before I put the pedal back on I brushed some anti-seize inside the sleeve and on the shaft thinking that it may stay longer than grease or oil. I agree with you about the PB Blaster, great stuff.

 

[TRX2fiveO]

PB Blaster, Antisieze and Die-Electric grease a quad owners bets friends.

Moose is getting slow in his old age.LOL

:icon_ laughup::icon_ laughup::icon_ laughup: you're not funy Mud...

 

[divedakota]

Brake pedal

I have removed the rubber seal. I have used a wheel puller, crow bar, hammer, oil, penetrating oil, foul language (copious amounts) heat. Got it to come out about an 1/8 inch. Can only get it to move up and down about two inches with the help of a very large hammer. May have to cut the thing off and weld another shaft on a buy a new pedal. Is this a common thing on Hondas? I have never spent to much time and energy on anything without getting something to work.

 

[cajun4]

I have another friend with an older Recon and he had the same problem with his brake "petal". Sounds like a design problem or the rubber on those boots going bad and gumming it up so bad it will hardly move. Easy fix but not so easy getting that thing off. I kinda go with that philosophy that I read posted on here one time "if you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem".

 

[cajun4]

It's a two man job - one has to hit that thing with the hammer to move it up and down while the other applies pressure with the crow bar and shoots penetrating oil at it. I'd keep at it rather than cutting it off if you can. Once you get it to move a little more, I think it will slide on off.

 

[TRX2fiveO]

When you applied the Heat to i did you heat the shaft too? If so you can't heat both heat expands metal. Try heating just the knuckle on the pedal and when you heat it it will need to be Glowing for the metal to expand enough for it to do anything.

 

[divedakota]

brake pedal

Finally after three days of working on it I got it free enough to function good. Still cannot get it off the shaft but it now works. Plan on keeping it clean and well lubed. Thanks for all the help and ideas.

 

[TRX2fiveO]

Cool deal glad you got it going.

 

[darrengee]

I had the rear pedal freeze up on my 04 Rancher. I still never got the pedal to slide off the shaft, but I did free it up by drilling a small hole in the pipe part of the pedal enuff to squirt PB Blaster in there and let it soak. When I got it moving free, I filled the hole with some black RTV to keep the elements out. Works good so far!!

 

[tdi]

To whom it mat consern ,I have defeated several locked up brake leavers,twisted off rustey bolts or any thing rust fused together. Heat the afected area with a simple propane or map gass torch ,try to get things cherry red ,than douse with watter. when you cool the metal be sure to keep clear of the steam that will be produced!! it could scald skin rather quick. I have seen and repaired many rusted twisted off bolts in my time ,and have yet to see something I could not get apart.The theory behind the rusted pin in sleve is that when you heat a rusted pin in sleeve" wether or not there is threds present " when the assembly is heated than cooled the outer part shrinks when the watter is introduced because the inner pin is still red hot when the outer part is cooled. When this happens it makes rusted and previously twisted off bolts pins sleeves and what ever just come loose.

 

[08700xx]

I use a penetrating oil called "hilco lube". It is made by Hill Manufacturing. We have a rep that comes to the place I work, But I imagine you could buy it online somewhere. It beets the crap out of PB Blaster. I used to think that was the stuff until the Hillco rep came along. It was supposedly designed for the military It stays on whatever you put it on for a long time, while still penetrating well.
In my opinion the reason for this problem Is so many people ride with just their handbrakes. On a quad if you don't keep it moving it will stick..