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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing the CV axles on my '88 Foreman 350D and while tearing one side down today I noticed the drum water seal on the side I tore down today is in pretty bad shape, brittle with some pieces missing. Surprisingly the inside of the drum, wheels cylinders and other brake parts are pretty good shape. So I ordered a couple new drum seals thinking I'd replace them both when I put it back together. But then I checked out that procedure in the service manual and wow! Any tips or advice on getting them replaced? How difficult is it to get them right?
 

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I'm replacing the CV axles on my '88 Foreman 350D and while tearing one side down today I noticed the drum water seal on the side I tore down today is in pretty bad shape, brittle with some pieces missing. Surprisingly the inside of the drum, wheels cylinders and other brake parts are pretty good shape. So I ordered a couple new drum seals thinking I'd replace them both when I put it back together. But then I checked out that procedure in the service manual and wow! Any tips or advice on getting them replaced? How difficult is it to get them right?
I'm a girl and I did it, so there is hope for you! LOL. It's really not that hard. @shadetree told me to use a punch and a hammer to get the seal out. Reach into the drum and place the punch on the inside edge of the seal and tap. Go around and around the seal with taps until it pops out of the drum. You use this same process to remove bearings.

If you can't reach through, then you'll have to work at prying it out. I took a box cutter with a new blade and cut into the seal enough to be able to get a heavy duty pick under the inside edge of the seal to pry it out. You can also use a small screw driver to pry it out.

Getting the new seal in is the easy part. Grease the edge of the new seal and place it on level. Then, use rubber mallet to gently tap the outer edge a little at a time, going round and round the edges, util you get it seated in there. Then, take an old socket, place the edge against the outer edge of the seal and finish tapping it down a little at a time around the edges.
Hope this makes sense.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, but I think you're talking about the seal in the hub or seals in the knuckle?

I'm referring to the big water seal around the outside of the drum that presses up against to the brake backing plate. I'm with them through the measurements but then get lost where the manual says apply water the new seal and everything that follows. Are saying to lay the new seal on a 1/2" by 6" diameter piece of steel plate, fill the inside of the seal with water and then push the drum down onto the seal?
 

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Ok, so we might not have been talking about the same part. LOL. I swear, I looked at the schematic. I have blond hair.
Yes, I know the part you're talking about, now.

I think they are talking about using a hydraulic or other type of press to insert that seal.

I replaced mine and simple put some anti-seize as lubricant and worked in on by hand. I started by laying the drum over the seal and got one section on, then slide it to the edge of the table and pulled a small section at the time until I worked it all the way around. It wasn't easy but it worked.

The anti-seize does not heat up and get slung into places it should not be, unlike regular grease.

That's my story and I'm going to stick to it this time. :)
 

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Okay, I just read the manual to double check. It's typical Honda broken English that serves to confuse mere weekend warriors.

Their technique is to ensure that the lip of the seal touches the edge of the back plate to incredible tolerances. I think when your seal arrives and you use your eyes and some common sense you'll see how it fits and be able to get it on without too much trouble.
Do be sure to fill the groove with grease per the manual. That adds another barrier to water.

I've seen it stated many times on this forum that seals are good but if you ride in water most of the time then nothing is going to keep water out. So, you can't convince me that if you're off by a mm or two on your seal you will have catastrophic failure. LOL

If I'm wrong, I'll buy you a new seal. Deal? LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After reading the instructions a half dozen times, I think you are correct. They are saying to lay the seal on a flat surface under a press, fill it with water, place the drum on top of the seal, a steel plate on top of the drum and then press the seal onto the drum. At least I think that's what they're saying. Still not sure what the purpose of the water is though.

I may have a friend that has a press, will have to check into it. Or I may just do like you're suggesting and tap it on. I doubt it's going to be waterproof even it it's perfect. Thanks for and suggestions.
 

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the backing plate water seals are never going to keep water out..no matter how well you get them on there. the factory presses them on, while glue it applied to the backing plate to keep them from turning.
 
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