[mwemaxxowner01]

I have an '08 rancher 4x4 e.s. I have always kept the oil changed and the air filter clean, but that's about all the maintenance I've done. Even still, it has served me well.

I'll be flushing the coolant soon, and I plan to replace the fuel filter with the updated unit. I guess it's a good time to replace diff fluid front and rear also.

What else, if anything, should I be looking to do at this point? Lube, grease, check, adjust, etc. Also, is there a good maintenance or shop manual available to us mere owners?

Spanks!

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[mac102004]

How many miles/hours are on it?

It's 9 years old, probably time for a valve adjustment, change out the spark plug, check the brake pads/shoes, definately change the diff fluids. There is no grease zerks or anything on these, but it's a good idea to check your CV boots for holes or cracks starting to form. Then there is the typical suspension bushings, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings etc. that would be a good thing to check. Depending on milage of course, if the thing has 500 miles on it I probably wouldn't bother....

There is a factory service manual available for download on this forum somewhere.

 

[mwemaxxowner01]

I got a link for the manual which I will download yesterday. I still prefer a paper manual. I might try scouring Amazon and whatnot. I'll have to check the hours. It's really not that much for an '08.

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[alloutdoors]

I got a link for the manual which I will download yesterday. I still prefer a paper manual. I might try scouring Amazon and whatnot. I'll have to check the hours. It's really not that much for an '08.

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Great advice above and found this for you, https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/honda-rancher-recon-trx250ex-atvs-editors-of-haynes-manuals/1119254978?ean=9781563927782&st=PLA&sid=BNB_DRS_Core+Shopping+Books_00000000&2sid=Google_&sourceId=PLGoP78860

 

[mwemaxxowner01]

Thank you all so very much. It's been a great ATV. Since I bought it new, I've always thought of it as being pretty new.

It has sat still for about two years (we had a baby, boy that changes things) and yesterday I serviced it, put a new battery in it, and a new spark plug. I was just kind of realizing as I was servicing it that it's starting to get some age on it, it's probably time for some more maintenance above that.

I'll likely take it somewhere for the valves. Hopefully that won't be terribly expensive, and that's something I'd prefer to leave to the pros I think.

The brakes are still in good shape, but the cable for the rear brakes is seized up. It still works great off the pedal, but that means no parking brake. Ive tried to free it up, it's going to take a new cable though. That I've got under control, I just have to get around to finding the part number and ordering it.

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[mwemaxxowner01]

251 hours/890 miles.

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[alloutdoors]

Thank you all so very much. It's been a great ATV. Since I bought it new, I've always thought of it as being pretty new.

It has sat still for about two years (we had a baby, boy that changes things) and yesterday I serviced it, put a new battery in it, and a new spark plug. I was just kind of realizing as I was servicing it that it's starting to get some age on it, it's probably time for some more maintenance above that.

I'll likely take it somewhere for the valves. Hopefully that won't be terribly expensive, and that's something I'd prefer to leave to the pros I think.

The brakes are still in good shape, but the cable for the rear brakes is seized up. It still works great off the pedal, but that means no parking brake. Ive tried to free it up, it's going to take a new cable though. That I've got under control, I just have to get around to finding the part number and ordering it.

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Congratulations on the baby and who knows that little boy may end up with a little brother or sister....

Having been stored for 2 years, I would consider removing the tank cleaning it, lines, etc., and putting in fresh fuel. Also, you might consider running a product like STA-BIL because you may need to park it again for 2 years. The only reason I mention cleaning the tank is some "ugly gremlins" could start showing up as bad/stale fuel moves around through the system.

 

[mwemaxxowner01]

Oh yeah, I know all about that from old trucks. It was stored with a full tank of non ethanol and stabil, so I hope it will be fine. I am running techron additive through this tank. When I change the filter I think it'll be a good time to pull the tank as well. It won't be used much in the meantime. As a rule I try to run 93 non ethanol in all my toys and small engines.

I should have specified, the new one is a girl, and boy does she love being outside!

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[shadetree]

adjusting the valves is simple. there is a sticky in the repair section by me, I explain in detail the easiest , and fastest way to adjust/set valves on most 4-stroke motors.

 

[mwemaxxowner01]

adjusting the valves is simple. there is a sticky in the repair section by me, I explain in detail the easiest , and fastest way to adjust/set valves on most 4-stroke motors.

I've seen that, but it seems if I don't have the piston top dead center and the intake valve open I can goof it up?

The ATV in question here is an '08 Rancher electric shift. An '08 Rancher is a 420.

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[Jeepwm69]

adjusting the valves is simple. there is a sticky in the repair section by me, I explain in detail the easiest , and fastest way to adjust/set valves on most 4-stroke motors.

I've seen that, but it seems if I don't have the piston top dead center and the intake valve open I can goof it up?

The ATV in question here is an '08 Rancher electric shift. An '08 Rancher is a 420.

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It's not hard. If someone like me can learn, ANYONE can learn.

Pull spark plug.

Pull timing plug on right side of motor (6mm hex IIRC)

Undo rear crank bolt cover (3 10mm bolts)

Put 17mm socket on crank bolt and slowly turn motor over while watching through the hole under the timing plug. Stop when you see a T

Now's when you do Shade's little trick of turning the crank bolt a hair back the other way while watching the valve. If it moves, turn it back until you're on the T again.

Remove gas tank and plastic protector plate, take off valve caps.

Get your feeler gauge and slide it up under the tappet. If it's loose, loosen the locknut and tighten it down a bit with a flathead screwdriver, and then tighten the lock nut. Do same thing on other valve.

Put it back together.

Pulling the tank and plastic crap takes more time than adjusting the valves, and once you do it, you'll know how to do it.

Save you a lot of money over time.

 

[mwemaxxowner01]

Looks like this point on the lower ball joint has some play.

Anyway I'd say those and the front wheel bearings need to be done soon. I can hear something up there turning.

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