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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Outlaw Racing ORCKA28 ATV Clutch Kit With Gasket

Comes with clutches, friction rings, springs, and gasket for $57.

My third and 4th gear is slipping so it’s time to put a clutch in. I don’t want the $34 caltric clutch because I’ve bought a few caltric things before and I know better. My driveline is stock so I don’t need anything beefy. Just a good replacement will do. There is only a third option on ebay that is more expensive and is clutches only so I’m not looking at that one. Just specifically looking at the one I’m asking about. Anyone use it?
 

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I bought EBC replacement clutch, my clutch wasn’t in bad shape at all so I’ve only replaced friction plates and springs. If your steel plates are fine (not discoloured or look baked) then you’d be fine just replacing friction plates. Springs, I’d just change them as a matter of course, your in there so why not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I put it all back together and it went down the road and back twice and then started slipping I'm pulling it apart right now but I haven't figured out the exact issue. The only thing I can figure is from a picture I took before I put it back together. It appears as if one of the Rings is not seated
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I must not have gotten that last disk lined up. Its bowed up. I'm not sure if I'll get it back flat without warpage. I may end up having to use one if my old disks. These have imprints for traction and are slightly thicker thsn the old worn ones but it's better than a warped disk tearing the clutch pad up.
 

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I didn't realize you had changed your discs one1. I musta missed that somewhere speed reading...? Getting pinched discs is generally caused by uneven screwing/tightening of the pressure plate/hub bolts as it is assembled. Basically, start each of the bolts, then alternate (criss-cross pattern) turning them about 1 to 1.5 turns each until they are all in. Then final torque each of them.

If you turn any one bolt too far at a time, the hub gets cocked and pinches a disc. You can check your work as you go by looking for gaps in the discs like you found... but you know that now. Always soak new frictions in motor oil before installing, else the facings will stick & can get stripped off as soon as engine torque is applied to the clutch.

Personally, I would replace that pinched friction. Straightening stretched metal is always a gamble... and the bonding glue that holds the cork/paper friction material on might fail right away and ruin the entire pack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I always cross tighten. This time i didn't seat it correctly. I took a test run everything is back to perfect. It's still a pain to get out of reverse, and always has been. Just feels locked in hard. I've got it to shift smooth as butter though with the screw and nut.
 

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When I bought the blue 300 , it felt like it was slipping in higher gears , it has a 54% reduction in it so really felt weird , one of the disc was pinched in it , I didn't use the disc that was pinched as it was bent pretty good , used a use one out another clutch ----- I got burned with pinching the disc on my own before , have learned to always check for looseness or a gap between the disc and frictions before putting the cover back on
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Definitely a reminder in this case for me to make sure the final one in the back is seated. I didn't think I'd get it back flat but i had some wood left from the trailer build so i sandwiched it and sledghammered it back flat without damage.

Edit: here is that kit incase anyone else buys it.
 

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