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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
rincon 04
2yrs ago i had Lucile overheat on me ( red light come on ) and shes been running hot ever since.

That day2 yrs ago i pulled the plastic and pull the oil cooler ( pluged solid) cleaned it out.

Here i am last week clean the rad water/air drained flushed and put in engine-ice, spaced the oil cooler out 1/2.
I let her come up to temp with the cap off probing the upper hose rad and lower hose got to 200 on the rad.
so at this point the T-stat should be open. BUt i can't see any flow in the rad.
I shut her off let her cool add more coolant same test with the cap on.
190 on Tstat hose 200 rad 180 lower hose. fan came on turn off. i was like ok looks good for now.

went riding Sunday for 4hr NO problems till on the way back the fan was coming on and just staying on 5min+ I stopped shut her done and just let her cool off did this twice on the way home just to be safe.

Got home washed her out ( yes lots of mud all over the atv) but really did not get anything out of the rad. Was in a few clean water basins also ( deep)

Im gonna pull the T-stat tonight test it + order a water temp gauge

MY only real ? is dose the water pumps on the rincon flow enough to see it in the rad circulating ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
well heres what i found on the T-stat the piece it self says 83C but it did not open (pop open) till after 96c about 190F the Manuel says after 80-85 it should start to open 95C be fullly open. That tells me the t-stat is sticking.

Im gonna leave it out refill and check for flow next. Gonna just use plain water for this test.

? dose anyone make a after market T-stat with lower temps ?
 

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well heres what i found on the T-stat the piece it self says 83C but it did not open (pop open) till after 96c about 190F the Manuel says after 80-85 it should start to open 95C be fullly open. That tells me the t-stat is sticking.

Im gonna leave it out refill and check for flow next. Gonna just use plain water for this test.

? dose anyone make a after market T-stat with lower temps ?
try auto zone..advanced auto parts...napa..you may find one that will fit..hard to say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well i order one from the cycle shop fing 30$ should have it tomorrow. Today my HL temp gauge showed up gonna go install that now.

I think im gonna gut the old T-stat and put it back in just to add some flow resistance. and try it out i can allways put the NEW one in when the temps drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well the new t-stat is installed and working the water pump dose work. Idling it warms up to 210 before the fan kicks on. to me thats to hot. I did install the HL temp gauge.

well that only leaves the rad left and its been washed and air blow clean....... Im starting to get frustrated. Im gonna try relocating the air temp sender to the rad see if i can get the fan to turn on when it should not if the winds blowing n the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well i decided im gonna pull the rad and have it tanked then mount the sucker on the rack. Im gonna make my own, HL is to$$ and all the other ones i don't like them sticking strait up in the air looks ugly. Im gonna put this in its own build thread so its easy to find. " IM tired of being that guy"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
WOW i feel like a donkeys rear end. I swore the rad was clean this whole time all that washing/ air blowing. wanna see the back side ?

 

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Wow, it is filled up with mud. It should run cooler when you get that cleaned out.
 

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I have an 04 that is overheating as well. Radiator and oil cooler have been removed and completely cleaned with the exception of having the rad. boiled. Water pump is new, fan and idiot light not coming on, water/freeze boiling in overflow. I have checked connection and wires to the temp sensor and fan motor with test light and have power to both. I have applied power to the fan motor and seems to be working fine. Is there a relay between the temp sensor and the fan/idiot light that may have gone bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
ok good news the hose at the shop got must of my mud out and at lunch time i was picking the fins still got more cleaning to do/ also my 1" wheel spacers came in :)

ok jkhuntin im looking at my FSM wireing diagram ( wish i could post it )

THe fan gets power from the fuse box 10A blue wire> from the fan it gose to the engine control module, green with black tracer.
oil temp sensor gets power from the ECM grounds on moter light blue wire.
engine coolant temp sensor power from ECM black wire with blue tracer

Im gonna look threw the Manuel while sipping this beer i dont see yet how the air temp switch works look like its wired to a cab heater ? ( i tho it was for the fan i got do some reading bbl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow just learned something new. The sensor on the front of the rad is for the carb lol this whole time i thot it was for the fan.


Ok looks like The fan is controlled by the ECM so if U have no lights or fan im gonna say ECM......... is there a chance you shorted somthing ? and the ECM said OWCH
 

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Thanks for the time and info, I've got a shop manual that I am going to check out tomorrow. Will let you know what I find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well i can't make up my mind the fins are clean on the rad and I know if i put it back it will just get plug up .......... I have the plastic off and mounted the rack then the rad with fan on top to get a idea on placement........ U know what i think im gonna spend the 2clams on a kit and save my self frustration. now just what kit. i don't want a stupid animal i wand somthing normal and im not spending the ?? on HF think ill mail RDC
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well i found the secret sauce at napa $6 works great only takes a few secs just don't inhale strait up acid. Also i ordered a re-location kit+ snorkel from gorilla axles
 

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The radiators clogging up is a very common 'problem' for the Rincons, I say that in quotations because it really isn't a big deal. The guys I ride with all have water picks they can attach to a hose for a higher pressure spray, you can get them way up behind the radiator to get all the mud out. I spent 4 or 5 days in 95 degree heat exploring some trails down in Kentucky and every time you had to climb back up into the mountains it'd be a good 2 or 3 minutes at full throttle. There was some overheating but it was the guys who 'didn't need to wash the stinkin bike cause it was just gonna get dirty again'.

It's a pain in the butt, but think of it like brushing your teeth, spend 2 mins washing that radiator after a muddy ride and it will continue to do it's job for many years. If you leave the mud on there (as I'm sure you saw) it'll dry up and more mud will stick to it ride after ride, then you'll have to pull the radiator if you ever want it to have airflow again LOL. That's why the guys who mudbog all the time will relocate stuff to the front rack, easier access to cleaning. It'll still clog up if you never hose it off though.

And I'm not trying to be critical or anything, but when you refill the radiator you're using distilled water in there right? I can't recall if Engine Ice comes diluted already or not, but if you're using water from the hose or sink the minerals in the water can easily mess up your thermostat.

Also, jkhuntin I would check the fuses under the seat. If it's the temp sensor malfunctioning you'll get a code and it will blow the fuse as soon as you turn the key on, if it's something with the fan it will blow a fuse after the temp sensor reads about 190* or so. I have also heard the rubber shroud / mat thing near the radiator cap has been known to come loose and get wedged down between the fan shroud and blades. So after checking fuses, can you spin the fan by hand? You can also test it by unplugging it and connecting it straight to the battery.
 

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I can clean my radiator pretty good when its straight up in the air. I have yet to see my red light come on.
 

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I ended up bypassing the ECM and wired the fan to a toggle switch so that I can run it when I want. Works fine. Now I have to replace the tie rod end that I broke this weekend playing in the mud. Gotta pay to play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I do always rinse/wash the rad out after each ride+ my self. We have well water and the water pressure sucks bad. when i took the rad to work i had it clean in minuets. The engine ice is poor right in no mixing in fact they tell you NOT to add water.

I think it is a combination of accumulation and thick mud not being dislodge do to poor water pressure next time im in HF ill pick up a jet nozzle.
 

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I have an 07 Rincon 680 and have recently encountered a lot of overheating problems. Radiator is cleaned very well. I have 26 " Zillas which is the only mod I have done to this bike. When trail riding the light comes on every 2 miles or so even at 10-15 MPH. Is the bike working too hard to turn the tires? Do I need a gear reduction kit to handle the larger tires ? ( 25" are stock size)Perhaps the front screen is causing too much air restrictIon ?
 
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