[mpittman]

I would like to add lights to a 90 TRX. I have a low wattage LED light, but its pretty bright. What is the best way to wire this up?

2016 90 TRX

Thanks,

 

[UnkleRaRa]

Easiest way would be to get a wiring harness from somewhere and just connect it straight to the battery.

Make sure there is a fuse in the wiring harness.

You'll need to find a place to mount the light and switch, but otherwise it's pretty straight forward.

Good Luck!

 

[wheelsquad]

I would like to add lights to a 90 TRX. I have a low wattage LED light, but its pretty bright. What is the best way to wire this up?

Thanks,

What year is yours? This makes a difference, as the older 90's were not e-start, but the newer ones are and have a stator and voltage regulator already there to keep the battery charged.

 

[mpittman]

I would like to add lights to a 90 TRX. I have a low wattage LED light, but its pretty bright. What is the best way to wire this up?

Thanks,

What year is yours? This makes a difference, as the older 90's were not e-start, but the newer ones are and have a stator and voltage regulator already there to keep the battery charged.

Mine is a 2016. How do I tap into the stator, and I have heard I would need a regulator as well? Do you know what kind of regulator I need? I can do basic wiring but not sure about wiring up a regulator or which one I would need.

 

[wheelsquad]

I would like to add lights to a 90 TRX. I have a low wattage LED light, but its pretty bright. What is the best way to wire this up?

Thanks,

What year is yours? This makes a difference, as the older 90's were not e-start, but the newer ones are and have a stator and voltage regulator already there to keep the battery charged.

Mine is a 2016. How do I tap into the stator, and I have heard I would need a regulator as well? Do you know what kind of regulator I need? I can do basic wiring but not sure about wiring up a regulator or which one I would need.

2016 is good. That means you have a battery and can just wire directly to the battery and install a switch, like unclerara said. If you would have had an onlder non-e-start model, then you would have been needing a stator/regulator kit. Direct to battery and you're good to go.

 

[mpittman]

What year is yours? This makes a difference, as the older 90's were not e-start, but the newer ones are and have a stator and voltage regulator already there to keep the battery charged.

Mine is a 2016. How do I tap into the stator, and I have heard I would need a regulator as well? Do you know what kind of regulator I need? I can do basic wiring but not sure about wiring up a regulator or which one I would need.

2016 is good. That means you have a battery and can just wire directly to the battery and install a switch, like unclerara said. If you would have had an onlder non-e-start model, then you would have been needing a stator/regulator kit. Direct to battery and you're good to go.

Looks like the light I have is a 20W LED (1200 lumens). You don't think that will drain the battery or over load the stator?

 

[UnkleRaRa]

If it does it will just drain your battery, but I think you'll be fine.

I have 2 LED pods and a light bar with no issues

 

[wheelsquad]

If it does it will just drain your battery, but I think you'll be fine.

I have 2 LED pods and a light bar with no issues

And can plug into a battery tender between uses to be safe.

 

[Goober]

Try to use Ohms Law E=IxR and P=IxE
P (Power)= I (current) x E (volts)
Watts/Volts = Amps
20/12 = 1.7A each light
12/1.7 = 7 ohm resistance each

The stock headlamp on mine is rated at 60/55W 5A

I think you could easily splice into one of the accessory or ignition junctions with a bullet connector and two bullet plugs. This requires a Y-splice to first tap the power and connect to your original and now your new accessory.

Keep in mind the current draw on the same wire would be additive! Most accessory circuits are rated at 15A, the wiring/fusing has to be rated for all the goodies you have on the circuit. Based on your description you would not affect the charging system or overload the circuit.

 

[wheelsquad]

Try to use Ohms Law E=IxR and P=IxE
P (Power)= I (current) x E (volts)
Watts/Volts = Amps
20/12 = 1.7A each light
12/1.7 = 7 ohm resistance each

The stock headlamp on mine is rated at 60/55W 5A

I think you could easily splice into one of the accessory or ignition junctions with a bullet connector and two bullet plugs. This requires a Y-splice to first tap the power and connect to your original and now your new accessory.

Keep in mind the current draw on the same wire would be additive! Most accessory circuits are rated at 15A, the wiring/fusing has to be rated for all the goodies you have on the circuit. Based on your description you would not affect the charging system or overload the circuit.

Good info Goober. But the TRX90 doesn't have any stock lighting, which is why he'll have to go direct to the battery with a switch.

 

[M_Quick]

A good wire kit will have a relay & fuse, along with a on off switch. It will only use current when on, and I'd assume quad would be running so it shouldn't drain battery.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk

 

[retro]

You have 56 watts gross charging capacity @5000 RPM to work with. So if you try to keep all accessory loads (Your lighting in this case) below 20 watts or so you should be OK unless the bike is normally operated at low RPMs for long periods. I will generally leave more than 1/2 of the charging capacity available to recharge the battery and power the ignition system, indicator lights etc. Never stress the charging system by demanding full output, it leads to a smoked alternator stator eventually and battery life is shortened if it isn't kept fully charged.

 

[redtherocket]

I love it when the kids won't stop... Even for dark... lol

 

[UnkleRaRa]

Try to use Ohms Law E=IxR and P=IxE
P (Power)= I (current) x E (volts)
Watts/Volts = Amps
20/12 = 1.7A each light
12/1.7 = 7 ohm resistance each

The stock headlamp on mine is rated at 60/55W 5A

I think you could easily splice into one of the accessory or ignition junctions with a bullet connector and two bullet plugs. This requires a Y-splice to first tap the power and connect to your original and now your new accessory.

Keep in mind the current draw on the same wire would be additive! Most accessory circuits are rated at 15A, the wiring/fusing has to be rated for all the goodies you have on the circuit. Based on your description you would not affect the charging system or overload the circuit.

Thanks for the headache Goob, I wasn't ready to work my brain this hard this early in the morning haha