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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello everyone,
i am new to the forum and i have a major starting issue with my '99 4x4 fourtrax 300. the four wheeler starts fine with the kick starter but will barely even turn over with the starter. i have changed the brushes in the starter, put a new battery in it, and checked the battery with a multimeter while the bike is running and not running. all of that stuff is fine. any suggestions on what to check next? thanks for the help.
 

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Welcome to the forums. Are all the connections in good shape no corrosion. You could try a jumper wire to see if that will start it. If so you have a wiring problem. I have come across this problem before not enough amps getting to the starter.
 

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Are you reading my post mud???? LMAO i posted the exact same thing in his other post...lol
 

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well...... depends if you leave them laying around then yes I will take your cookies. I actually didn't see the double post until I posted up my suggestions... but hey...great minds think alike right?
 

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Jump across the solenoid terminals I reccomend using a remote starter button but some use a screw driver the button don't arc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so i jumped across the solenoid connections with the same result. the starter will click and maybe turn the engine over one time very weakly. would my next step to be to check the wiring from the switch to the solenoid. when the bike is running the batter shows about 13.8 volts. How can i test to see if the solenoid is good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
We put a new battery on it about a month ago and it did fine for about 2 weeks then stared have the symptoms it has now. Could there be something that is ruining the battery that quick or could it just be a bad battery?
 

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We put a new battery on it about a month ago and it did fine for about 2 weeks then stared have the symptoms it has now. Could there be something that is ruining the battery that quick or could it just be a bad battery?
Do you hae access to a tool called a DC Amp-probe? If so clamp it around the main hot wire to see how many amps the starter draws when it tries to crank? Tell us what the cranking amps were if you did this.

Also it could be the bushings on the starter ends. If they are worn? The armature will bottom out on the stator as it tries to spin.

You said you installed new brushes? Did you check the mica between the copper segments on the armature? If the mica is higher than the copper? The brushes can't make proper contact.

If the starter sounds like it labors when it trying to crank? I'd almost bet the bushings in the end caps are worn and need replacing. One way to check this is to remove the starter and remove the stator. Look at the stator carefully to see if you find any drag marks on eith the rotor or stator magnets. If you do? The bushings are bad.

But to sum this up. A bad contact or cable end can cause your problem. This is why the easiest and fastest way to check for a problem like this is use a DC Amp Probe.
 

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Can I use a multimeter? Should I check it on the starter hot wire or the battery hot wire?
I've never seen anyone use a regular multimeter that is able to do this if this feature wasn't built into the meter already. But that doesn't say it can't be done either. It's just I don't know how if there is a way? I've only used the DC Amp-probe to do this or a high end multimeter with this feature built in to it.

Something you can do to take the selonoid and big wires out of the equation. Use a big auto type jumper cable (but please be careful) go from the starter where the main wire goes to the positive side of the battery (make sure you wear safety glasses, and there is no battery acid around the top of the battery). Any sparks can cause the battery to explode is why you need to be very careful.

If you do this? It takes all of the heavy wiring from the battery to the selonoid, and from the selonoid to the starter. If the engine cranks like it should? The problem is in the jumped out area. If the engine does the same thing. I'd look at the starter.

One big question. You say a new battery was installed? Did you add the acid and then slow charge it for 24 hours before using it? If not? The battery may not have taken a full charge like it needed to. And this could be the problem....A weak battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The local four wheeler shop put the battery in the last time my bike was there (they were trying to fix the current problem and obviously didn't do it) so I'm not sure if the battery was charged properly.
 

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The local four wheeler shop put the battery in the last time my bike was there (they were trying to fix the current problem and obviously didn't do it) so I'm not sure if the battery was charged properly.
The unfortunate thing about shops is they will usually repair the problem? The trouble enters into this when it's not their own ATV, so they wouldn't go over everything like someone would if they owned it (again, usually). But we have to keep in mind it's a production situation. The more you produce, the more you make. Now warranty work? That's another story.

Hey, can you remove the starter and take it to AutoZone so they can put it on their starter machine? All they do is hook up a ground, and then a hot wire to the starter to see if it works?

If you'd like? Take the starter off and send it to me. I'll check it out and replace the bushings. FREE OF CHARGE! But you pay for the return shipping, and the parts? Plus I'll get on it as soon as it gets here.

It's up to you? If I look at it and can tell it's bad. I'll let you know so you can buy a new one, or do what you can with this one.

The choices are yours?

Let me know. I'd be more than happy to help out.
 

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I would be reluctant to carry anything to an autozone or advance they change employees so much. I would fiind a local alternator/starter repair shop and carry it to them they deal with these things everyday, every min of every hour, and they usually won't charge anything for a test. most of the time they can get your business that way.
 
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