[Glynn863]

Hope to post some pics soon. I got my TRX300FW about 3 weeks ago. It was running / driving, but had a idle issues and no battery. Also, (1) 25" front tire and rim (from a Foreman I think) and (1) stock 23" front tire (looks original). Back tires are 24" and look original too.

So far, I have removed the gas tank and am de-rusting it now. The petcock was shot; it wouldn't turn off gas in any position and the cup was full of rust. I decided to tear down the carb. Carb bowl had some rust too and primer pump was screwed up from rust. Idle was wonky because plastic threads on choke / starter valve were gone, so it was practically inoperable and acting like the choke was on mostly. The mixture screw was also missing the bottom o-ring and washer. I got a Moose kit off walmart.com (hey - free shipping) and a new petcock, starter valve set, and primer pump from ebay.

I got a replacement rim from Willies Cycles with a may-pop tire on it, hopefully to be replaced soon.

The ATV also has a working Warn A2000 winch, but a lot of the wiring is pieced together with twists and electrical tape. Solderless connectors, some re-wiring, and heat shrink will fix most of that. Alos got a NOS TRX300-specific roller fairlead off ebay for a reasonable price.

ATV needs a few bits and pieces here and there. Still need to check brakes, but they seem to work. Fluid in crankcase, transfer case, and diffs are good and clean. Outer CV joints need to be re-greased because bands on both have been opened at the small end, so they click some. I realize that this may only be a temporary fix.

An ongoing endeavor.

 

[shadetree]

welcome to the world of atv repair huh ?!..lol. sounds like you got it under control !. you can post this in the DIY/build section if you want to start a thread there ?, lots of members love seeing others work !. bunch of pic perv's around here !..lmfao.

 

[shadetree]

when I get my hands on a project ?, normally it's a full tear down, top to bottom, front to back, I try not to miss anything ?. this way, I will know what all was done to it ?, and what parts got replaced ?.nothing like bringing a dead atv back from the dead !..lol. I love doing it, got about 20 years into it ?, the one thing I have learned the most ?, they don't come cheap in the long run as far as parts ?!..lmfao. but..it's worth it !!!, spec when your doing it yourself, learning, AND SAVING MONEY !.

 

[Glynn863]

Finally got the old girl running again. Took a while because I was re-wiring the winch as described in another thread, and was running new wires along the frame, underneath the gas tank. Gas tank was reinstalled with a new petcock, and the carb rebuilt with the Moose kit. I set the mixture screw at 2-1/2 out until I can get an inductive tachometer to set the idle and mixture properly. After a slight adjustment with the idle screw, it idled good, and didn't stumble when given more throttle. Didn't get to ride because a rear tire had leaked down, and it was dark and getting colder.

 

[shadetree]

Finally got the old girl running again. Took a while because I was re-wiring the winch as described in another thread, and was running new wires along the frame, underneath the gas tank. Gas tank was reinstalled with a new petcock, and the carb rebuilt with the Moose kit. I set the mixture screw at 2-1/2 out until I can get an inductive tachometer to set the idle and mixture properly. After a slight adjustment with the idle screw, it idled good, and didn't stumble when given more throttle. Didn't get to ride because a rear tire had leaked down, and it was dark and getting colder.

hang in there !, sounds like your making progress !!.

 

[Glynn863]

Got a lot done yesterday after work. What I really like is that I just touch the electric start and she fires right up. (1) Pumped up the tire and did a little test riding around the yard. Still need to inspect / re-grease CV joints in front axles because they click some, on turns. I know I may need to replace the axles, but since I don't plan on mud-riding or other real aggressive driving, I may see if I can get by with my re-grease plans. (2) Finished battery compartment wiring arrangements, especially to accommodate winch power wiring leads. (3) Swapped the winch motor leads to have winch rotation correspond to switch operation properly. (4) Re-wound the winch cable, under tension. I hooked to the back of my jeep, and used the winch to pull the ATV while in neutral. (5) Got the roller fairlead installed. I just need to get a cable stopper or whatever they're called so I can retract the cable more and don't have to hook to the frame or front rack for storage. (6) Ordered a steering shaft bushing off ebay. (7) Most importantly, put up tools.

 

[cmanningjr]

Good progress! Pictures or it didn't happen... lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shadetree]

I use a tennis ball as a hook stopper, cheap, but works !!. just drill a hole through the center of a tennis ball, run your cable or rope ?, through the center, re-attach hook, all done !. works for me any way .

 

[Glynn863]

Got my steering bushing installed today. Not something that I'd want to do a lot, but not too difficult. Greased it up before installing, and that added a little to installation "follies", but I didn't drop it in the dirt or lose the clamp bolts. Also made a cable stopper for free from a gray powerade bottle top. I just cut a "X" in it and passed the cable through, then pulled it tight to the cable loop swage. Looks like a mini-stopper. It serves the purpose and doesn't pass between the rollers. ******* engineering I know. But wait, there's more. I also made a winch hook strap from an orange dog leash I got at Dollar Tree. It already had a loop at one end, and I put it around the cable hook, marked it, and used a pop rivet and small washer to hold it, and cut off the excess, used a lighter to seal the ends. I know, pics or it didn't happen. Maybe soon, I'm working, not taking pics, haha.

 

[_Wilson_]

Good progress! Pictures or it didn't happen... lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shade calls us a bunch of pic pervs ...... Lol

Gylnm, congrats on the nos 300 winch line fairleeds ! Great find!

Sounds like you making good progress tuned in!

 

[Glynn863]

Finally a few pics after riding some today around the yard:

1st Pic: Right rear quarter view. Overall good shape, for a 1998 model. Still has original rear tires.

2nd Pic: Rear view. I cleaned up the rear axle some and added the 3-way Coleman hitch from Wally World. My winch solenoid is located in the upper left wheel well.

3rd Pic: Left front quarter view. Shows Warn winch switch I rebuilt / re-wired. Also shown are some used front tires and rims I got off a facebook forum last weekend. The seller said they were off a 1990 TRX300FW, but they are only 5.5 inches wide. They still fit okay and I didn't notice any issues while riding.

4th Pic. Front view, showing my NOS Warn roller fairlead I got off EB, "******* Engineering" cable stopper and hook strap. I need to clean headlight bulb terminal connections I think; left high beam is intermittent and I have to thump the front with my hand.

 

[Goober]

Yeah! Looks good. The wheel track width looks even from the pics and the rears don't stick out from the fenders.
I like the big old dry boxes in these things--where'd you put the winch contractor?
If a pic is worth a thousand words then these pics must be worth a dozen quotes?

 

[Glynn863]

The winch contactor / solenoid is a sealed Camdec unit, with 3 posts, (+) supply, (+) load, trigger post. It is grounded (-) by the mounting bracket. I found it mounted in the upper left rear wheel well, secured by a rear carrier rack mounting bolt. The cables to it are secured by heat-shrink covered ring connectors, and further covered by rubber boots. Maybe not completely waterproof (I don't plan on doing submarine-type stream crossings), but water resistant.

I rode around the yard for a little while to "exercise" the ATV and see the steering improvement created by the bushing. Also checked brake operations. Made several "hard" stops from moderate speeds, testing front and rear brakes separately. Front brake handle seemed stiff at first, but loosened up after several stops, so maybe the wheel cylinders just need cycling. No funny noises or smells or leakages. Rear brakes work better with the foot pedal, but still need adjusting. I need to check the foot pedal cable because the pedal doesn't return without pulling it up. I have sprayed the springs with Kroil on the pedal shaft and drum pivot shaft to dissolve and rust and give some preliminary lube. I plan to remove the foot pedal cable and check it for binding, etc.

Next repair will probably be outer CV joints. I have found a good price on Interparts CV joints, which I have seen mentioned in a few other posts. Any issues with those?

 

[cmanningjr]

Looks good!!!

 

[tinkerman]

Nice project. I have restored a couple of 300fw's myself. Be sure to check your right rear axle bearing that is located in your rear brake panel. Jack it up and remove right rear tire and give the axle a good wiggle. If there is play, replace the bearing and seals and inspect rear brakes at the same time. Continued operation will ruin your rear diff. Common problem on the 300fw.
















c

 

[Glynn863]

Well, too many things lately have kept me from working on the Fourtrax. Today was my first opportunity. One pump from the carb primer and half choke and it fired right up. Rode a little around the yard. I was bothered by the fact that the foot brake would not return when depressed. I removed the rear cable to check for binding. Aside from being a little dirty it was fine. I pulled the rubber seals back to expose the inner cable and used a syringe to put some Marvel Mystery Oil in. I have used this stuff a lot over the years and it works for me. Your experience may differ. Anyway, the culprit was actually the foot brake lever on the shaft; it was stiff even with the brake cable removed. I had to remove the right foot rest to disengage the return spring and get it off. I cleaned the plastic bushing on the shaft and the inside of the lever tube. I used never-seize on both (a little goes a long way) and re-assembled. No more binding! Reconnected the cable and test rode it. Worked fine, so I put it and the tools up. Next job may be front brakes; they were semi-stuck when I first tried to ride.

 

[billybob69]

I was bothered by the fact that the foot brake would not return when depressed. I removed the rear cable to check for binding. Aside from being a little dirty it was fine. I pulled the rubber seals back to expose the inner cable and used a syringe to put some Marvel Mystery Oil in. I have used this stuff a lot over the years and it works for me. Your experience may differ. Anyway, the culprit was actually the foot brake lever on the shaft; it was stiff even with the brake cable removed. I had to remove the right foot rest to disengage the return spring and get it off. I cleaned the plastic bushing on the shaft and the inside of the lever tube. I used never-seize on both (a little goes a long way) and re-assembled. No more binding! Reconnected the cable and test rode it. Worked fine, so I put it and the tools up. Next job may be front brakes; they were semi-stuck when I first tried to ride.

That is one 'trick of the trade' that I've never heard of before. So will add it to my ever expanding knowledge bank.

These cable oilers are often a cheap and simple solution -
Universal Clamp Type Cable Oiler Lubricator Tool Motorcycle Throttle Brake | eBay

I'm be surprised if the front brakes are as easy to fix!

bb69