Honda ATV Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
While I am waiting for some things on my 86 TRX, thought I might go over the possibilities for my Recon. I am guessing it's got a vacuum leak somewhere but here goes.

It starts and runs good, but if I set the idle adjustment mixture for summer it will not idle in the winter. This prob does not make sense, I am having trouble putting it to words. If I set it to idle at the correct speed for winter, when the it gets warmer, then the idle goes way too fast as the engine warms.

Carb's are not my forte and this sucker has a million vac hoses on it. One thing I did do was disconnect the CA idle control. The one that when you hit the throttle and let it down, it SLOWLY comes back to idle. I hated how long it took. Now it acts normally, in that respect.

Back to the summer/winter idle. The weird part is as the engine warms, especially in the summer heat, the idle will gradually climb till it's too fast to put it into gear without possibly damaging something.

I have a carb kit, but am a little intimidated by all the vac lines, honestly. I have done a few carbs in my lifetime, and most have turned out OK but this one has me concerned.

Any ideas from experienced Recon folks? We've had this a few years now and would like to get this straightened out. Otherwise the bike is fantastic.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
38,518 Posts
I don't think that year model has one single vacuum line on it ?. most of those year models have only vent lines, one on each side, a drain tube on the bottom of the carb. now when you get into the newer models ?, they have one added line, and this is for the air cut-off, but other than this ?, they all are pretty much the same.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Really, there's a lot of rubber lines coming off this thing. Not near it to take a pic but IIRC there was about 5, counting the one I blocked for the idle let down. I have dealt with that before, it is CA's design to not allow unburned fuel to come out the exhaust, but it makes engine braking interesting, if not scary when going down steep hills.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
38,518 Posts
Really, there's a lot of rubber lines coming off this thing. Not near it to take a pic but IIRC there was about 5, counting the one I blocked for the idle let down. I have dealt with that before, it is CA's design to not allow unburned fuel to come out the exhaust, but it makes engine braking interesting, if not scary when going down steep hills.
ok, well, I don't know much about CA carbs ?, but I know they are very strict about pollution there !..lol. I would need to see a pic to tell you which is which ?, but most carbs do have vent lines on them, as well as the drain tube on the bottom of the float bowl.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will try to get one soon, but the lines I remember are on the top. I might be remembering something that doesn't exist, but pretty sure they are there.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,956 Posts
I just browsed through section 5 of the FSM for your Recon... coverage is pretty comprehensive... includes CA (all Recons have CA carbs from 98 up) and every vent/vacuum hose on the machine... should be a walk in the park to fix yours. Beyond what the FSM covers, the only other thing I can think of to be on the lookout for are any vacuum leaks such as cracking carb boots, leaking o-rings or gasket at the manifold/head joint, broken/loose hoses etc. If you have any problems getting the carb set up 100% as the FSM says... let us know about them.

EDIT:
Hope you got an OEM carb kit...? China made knockoff kits are gonna make things worse if you go that route.

Keep us updated if ya can,
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,062 Posts
@retro is absolutely spot on with what he has said above. I would replace all vacuum hoses then try again. If that has no affect then I'd be looking at the rubber inlet boot (carb to engine) you can spray easy start around this to check for leaks, the rpm will pick up if there is a leak.
All the above is pretty much useless though if you fitted a Chinese carb rebuild kit, they really are junk. If you did go this route I'd get an OEM or known good brand and fit it before I went any further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK thanks for the feedback. That brings backs methods I once knew but have forgotten, so a good reminder in the leak tests. Sam I haven't put the carb kit on cause mostly it runs pretty darn good. It's just the idle issue that needs to be fixed. But honestly I never knew there were good and bad kits.

I will keep you guys posted. My priority list seems to never sit still. On our last RV trip I noticed the fan clutch on my Duramax kicked in about 25 deg too high, so a new one is sitting in the shop waiting for me to install it before our next trip. That got pushed back by having to put wet bolt kit in the trailers suspension system.

I won't even go into all the oak trees that have fallen on my property waiting to be cut and split. I regress.

My truck is first on my list, getting my '86 Fourtrax's brakes bled and wheel bearings done, then I hope to get to the Recon. I need to get a job, retirement is too much work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
396 Posts
There is a diaphragm on the recon carb right on top that must operate properly. If you haven't opened it up to check and see if it is torn or the tiny hole it feeds is plugged that's a safe bet you could be experiencing issues there. It's critical to the idle. Be careful a small spring should be in there that will run from you.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
38,518 Posts
I hear ya on those wet bolts for your trailer !, I was looking at them for my camper ?, wasn't worth the cost..lol. keep us posted on your recon !.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top