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Finally came across one of those $20 or $50 bargains I read about on this site! Found a 95' 300fw that hit a tree on the front right side, ripped off the A-arms, hub and wheel and broke the mounts on the front differential. Have all the parts (diff, axle and hub/wheel) and from handlebar rearward complete. For $50 it was too good to pass up for parts but once I got looking at it I think it can be fixed. But now I have found a 98" 300 2wd, everything but engine, rearend, seat and tank for
$200. My question is probably stupid or at least wishful thinking, but are they the same, or close enough that the 98' frame might have useful parts? I know there are experts on this site will know the answer! Also does anyone know any product that loosens seized cables? Thanks guys.
 

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Edit- 2x4 and 4x4 frames are different no matter the year!!! A lot of other parts will interchange between those years, but 2x4 has no mounting for the front diff and I believe some other differences as well such as steering and maybe a Arms.

I have had some success freeing seized cables just using regular cable lube and forcing it down with the cable
Lube tool. On really seized ones, it hasn't always worked. I have also heard of people soaking them in marvel mystery oil in a plastic bag. Sometimes just best and cheaper to replace them depending on how bad they are.
 

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Congrats on the smokin' deal!

Cables usually seize because of rust, so if you have the cable off you can work your way along its length, bending it sharply every couple inches with your fingers until you find a stiff, rigid section of it... that stiff part is probably a rusted sheath. If its a short section thats not rusted bad yet, sometimes you can bend the cable there, every which way you can, and get the rust broke loose. Then flush the cable with lube real good from one end to the other. Real bad ones may require that you cut the outer plastic off so you can put lube/solvent into the sheath at the rusty area, again by bending/stretching it to open it up enough for lube to seep into it. Good used OEM cables are cheap though, sometimes it isn't worth the trouble to try to save them. Could buy you some time though...

I tried to look those frames up but there are no part numbers listed for either of them. Only clue I saw was "Frame (93-95) 93-95" see the attached screen shot...
 

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Thanks guys! I figured there was no way, but the BikeBandit drawing looked the same and I am susceptible to wishful thinking! And Retro I thought that TSI 321 might do the trick on the cables, but yeah just get new. I'm cheap but particular about things working the way they're supposed to. By the way I enjoyed the conversation between Retro and Shadetree about changing the ignition timing on the 350d machines. I found a company that remans CDI units and when I get that far will contact them about the possibility. Course I'm just looking for a 10 or 12 degree advance to help burn propane better. Anyway, thanks again everyone. This site is fantastic!
 

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Yeah, hang in there! I'm going to bump the initial timing on mine when I tear the motor down in a while here. I'll post pics -- before & after timing, how its done etc.

EDIT:
TSI 321 will work on that rusty cable if you can get it free and push some oil through it. Rust will dissolve over time and you'll have to chase it all out of there with fresh oil for a while. :)
 

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Thanks guys! I figured there was no way, but the BikeBandit drawing looked the same and I am susceptible to wishful thinking! And Retro I thought that TSI 321 might do the trick on the cables, but yeah just get new. I'm cheap but particular about things working the way they're supposed to. By the way I enjoyed the conversation between Retro and Shadetree about changing the ignition timing on the 350d machines. I found a company that remans CDI units and when I get that far will contact them about the possibility. Course I'm just looking for a 10 or 12 degree advance to help burn propane better. Anyway, thanks again everyone. This site is fantastic!
just a thought ?, but have you and retro considered advancing the timing by off-setting the flywheel ?. the reason I ask is, is because the flywheel is what triggers the pick-up coil, which, triggers the spark plug coil through the c.d.i. the flywheel has a metal piece on it, it is made onto the flywheel, this is some of the timing made for these, maybe even all of it , not sure ?, but I do know this piece on the flywheel is what triggers the spark and timing. scratch that, you can't off-set the flywheel, it has a woodruff key made in them..lol..sorry..tired right now..lol.
 

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Ya, I thought about an offset key... they come with a choice of 1 or 2 degrees, advance or retard... but I'm gonna see if there is enough space for the entire pulse coil to be slid a bit... by slotting the pulse coil mount. That way the initial timing could be adjustable. Won't know until I get in there if there is enough space, or if that idea is even practical or not? In about 3 weeks or so I'll put eyeballs on it... if my current project gets done on time.


EDIT:
The woodruff key is removable, just a snug fit in the crank I think. I was just looking at it a few days ago on my spare crank.
 

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Ya, I thought about an offset key... they come with a choice of 1 or 2 degrees, advance or retard... but I'm gonna see if there is enough space for the entire pulse coil to be slid a bit... by slotting the pulse coil mount. That way the initial timing could be adjustable. Won't know until I get in there if there is enough space, or if that idea is even practical or not? In about 3 weeks or so I'll put eyeballs on it... if my current project gets done on time.
you will have to slot the bracket on the pick up coil. they have holes made into the bracket to keep it in one place.
 

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Ya, two screws hold the pulse coil down. The airgap between the flywheel and the coil pole has to be maintained if its modded, so I'll measure that before doing anything, so when its slid I can check that the airgap is still correct. I'll use a dial indicator in the spark plug hole to locate top dead center and see where the coil pole matches up with the metal trigger on the flywheel and mark that. And verify that the TDC mark on the flywheel is accurately marked from the factory, so I can trust my timing light when I'm testing. LOL It should be fun...
 

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From what I've read and understand, some things on those will interchange, but not sure what will and won't, but shadetree or manning would be a few good ones to ask. As far as getting cables unseized, the only thing I've found is called Kroil Oil, it's a penetrating oil and have had awesome luck with it just for that purpose.
 

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I hear you on the Aero Kroil , best out there as far as I am concerned , but don't be fooled with the new formula they came out with called Sili-Kroil , it is ok but not as good as the original --------this week I worked at a plant and the plant mechanic helped me pull a catalytic muffler off a machine for baking it out and the bolts were bad rusted , I had the Kroil and he pulled out some 3M 5 in1 penetrant and I'd say it is good stuff , he told me to keep the 1/2 of can so I can try it out some more
 

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there are quite a few different frame configurations between years and 2wd and 4wd , some things I know are the 2wd steering shaft bearing retainer plate is on bottom the frame tubes and the 4wd is on top so the steering shafts and steering arms are different , the 2wd frame doesn't have the mount brackets for the front diff , the swing arm mount is also different between 2 and 4 wd
 

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the single biggest problem I would see with the swap would be fabricating a new steering stem bracket for the bearing so the front differential could clear.

for some this is near impossible, for others, its just half a days job cutting and welding.

do some talking with neighbors/fabricators in the area. you may be surprised to find a good fabricator.

@$50, I would be doing everything I possibly could to make it work.
 
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