[Caddo1371]

First off, thanks everyone for your time. I dont plan on running off after my issue is resolved, I will keep everyone updated.

Anyways, I have a 95 300 that is giving me starting issues. It will kick start, but nothing on the electric start.

Battery was bad, replaced it.
No neutral light, installed a new nuetral switch, still no light.
Both nuetral and reverse female ends when grounded to block light up both lights.
It will turn over when I jump the posts on the solenoid.
Headlights work.
Both 15a fuses by the battery are good. Contacts cleaned.
I thought replacing the nuetral switch would get it but it didn't. I'm stumped.
Fyi, I dont have a lot of mechanical experience but I've been doing alot of research and trying to learn.

Thanks everyone again.

 

[shadetree]

welcome to the forums. from the way you described ^^ ?, sounds like to me your neutral switch is not working ?. I know you said you replaced the switch, but !!, are you getting 12 volts to the switch ?. if you are ?, then you have a problem with the end of the shift drum behind/inside the right hand cover. if the part that is not good that bolts to the end of the shift drum ?, it won't ground the switch from the inside ?, if this is the problem ?, you wont get a neutral light.

 

[shadetree]

# 7 ----> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1995/trx300-an-fourtrax-300/shift-drum-gearshift , is the part I am talking about, that makes contact on the inside of the cover, and grounds the neutral light .

 

[hodge5]

Welcome to the forum!

 

[fishfiles]

I would think , that by you grounding the wire and the neutral light lights up , then your wires and the light bulb of the neutral light are OK , so the problem would have to be the switch , even though it is new or the problem is inside the case --- Shade mentioned 12 volts , but I think the neutral light works on a ground on the 300's ----maybe check the ground to the case from the battery

 

[shadetree]

I would think , that by you grounding the wire and the neutral light lights up , then your wires and the light bulb of the neutral light are OK , so the problem would have to be the switch , even though it is new or the problem is inside the case --- Shade mentioned 12 volts , but I think the neutral light works on a ground on the 300's ----maybe check the ground to the case from the battery

yes the switch works from ground, but !..the wire leading to the switch is always hot !. it has 12 volts to it all the time. so when you go to neutral, it grounds inside through the switch with the part I posted ^^^. don't believe me ?, take a 12 volt dc test light, unhook your wire to your switch, turn the key on, put the test light to engine, then to switch wire, i'll bet ya a cold one the test light , lights up !..lol.

 

[fishfiles]

I would think his problem is inside the case

Most of my neeutral switches are by-passed , the neutral wire is grounded to the frame because of the reductions , and they will start in gear which is dangerous , I almost pee-ya'ed my oil/fuel cabinet recently on a start up ----on the 450 build I am doing now , I am playing around with a hydraulic conversion , the master is off a GoldWing 1000 and has two micro switches on it , I am thinking about using one to have to press the brake pedal to start , having to step on the brake at least it will make me think about being in gear or not ----90% of the time I put it in neutral before killing it , my wife is the best at killing the engine in 5th gear and have to rock it back into neutral , she had reduction on hers and I took it out , she was going to kill herself or someone else

 

[shadetree]

I would think his problem is inside the case

Most of my neeutral switches are by-passed , the neutral wire is grounded to the frame because of the reductions , and they will start in gear which is dangerous , I almost pee-ya'ed my oil/fuel cabinet recently on a start up ----on the 450 build I am doing now , I am playing around with a hydraulic conversion , the master is off a GoldWing 1000 and has two micro switches on it , I am thinking about using one to have to press the brake pedal to start , having to step on the brake at least it will make me think about being in gear or not ----90% of the time I put it in neutral before killing it , my wife is the best at killing the engine in 5th gear and have to rock it back into neutral , she had reduction on hers and I took it out , she was going to kill herself or someone else

which means your neutral light is either on all the time ?, or you pulled the bulb ?. as for starting in gear ?, yeah..very bad idea !. if the throttle ever sticks wide open, and you or a kid jumps on it ?..well..it wont end pretty !..lol. many moons ago, I was working on a atc 185, had it on a bench, cranked it up, it decided to go into gear..while the throttle was stuck wide open, lets just say..it made a mess of the shop that day !..lol.

 

[retro]

Unplug the ignition switch and test it as the manual shows. Look for corrosion or moisture in the plug and clean it up. Also check the plug on the CDI... clean it and carefully fit it back together. Check & clean the grounds on the frame as well. You can test the neutral switch using a test light or a multimeter. Grab a copy of the service manual for reference if you haven't yet. And keep us posted if you can.

 

[shadetree]

Unplug the ignition switch and test it as the manual shows. Look for corrosion or moisture in the plug and clean it up. Also check the plug on the CDI... clean it and carefully fit it back together. Check & clean the grounds on the frame as well. You can test the neutral switch using a test light or a multimeter. Grab a copy of the service manual for reference if you haven't yet. And keep us posted if you can.

just a FYI, he's not having spark issues, or anything like that ?, he changed battery, all fuses checked/replaced. from reading his first post ^^^, the problem he's having is he's not getting the starter to work. and the reason his starter won't crank is because the neutral light won't come on until he grounds the lead to engine ?, or jumps starter solenoid ?. he also said he replaced the neutral switch, all this tells me the part that bolts to the end of the shift drum, that I linked above ^^^, is worn down, and not making contact to the switch on the inside of the engine cover to ground the switch .

 

[retro]

Aye OK, I thought he was having both issues. I'll leave the excessive info for now though... while I rush my coffee pot one more time. Thanks shadetree.