[Boomerstrx250x]

Hi, I have a trx250x that has been sitting around 5 years. It blew a stator when I was in the desert years ago. Recently I have replaced the stator, cdi, ignition coil, and did an oil change. Also with the help of old forums I have jumped the reverse switch and pulled the cable above the brake pedal tight. This gave me good spark. When I spray starter fluid in the carb it starts right up. I have tried to put the gas tank on and then spray starter fluid. This works barely and I have got on the machine to run for a minute or two. The machine won’t start with just gas. Also the idle screw on the carb is missing so I have to hold the throttle with my thumb( this used to work fine 5 years ago time after time) is this a carb issue? Or maybe valves idk

 

[retro]

You'll have to begin with a complete OEM carburetor with OEM parts in it. No parts missing... and no china knockoffs will work. Buy what you need for your carb before beginning. A genuine Shindy carb kit will probably work if you need one.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1992/trx250x-a-fourtrax-200x/carburetor

Clean out the fuel tank and petcock. Then disassemble the carb completely and soak the metal parts in a tub of Berrymans for at least 24 hours. Search for @Goober threads on carb cleaning to learn about what you'll need to buy to get passages clean. Get a copy of the service manual here:
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...nual-help/50817-service-manual-downloads.html

Follow the manual word for word as you assemble and set up the carb. Adjust all cables when you reinstall the carb. Take your time, work thoroughly and keep us posted on your progress if you can.

 

[Goober]

Sounds like a couple things carb and electrical.

A varnished carb can cause the vacuum piston to stick in the bore. Hard to tell if your enrichment circuit is working if you can’t get it to run—start with the carb.

You can buy parts or whole carbs pretty easily on fleabay or Partzilla/Rocky Mtn. Once you have a complete and cleaned carb it’s easier to continue the troubleshooting.

Also consider restoring those safety features you’ve disconnected. Will help you with diagnostics. If it were my quad, there’s the regulator/rectifier, fuel relay to test, which you didn’t mention so don’t know if your unit has them

 

[Boomerstrx250x]

Why should I not just buy a 55$ eBay carb. My carb is broken where the idle screw is.i could buy a used carb and rebuild it. Anyway a lot of people jump the reverse switch as it is a problem affecting good spark in the 92 Trx 250x. The key has been removed as it is not needed out on my acreage. There are many forums supporting what I have done so far. If no one thinks it is a valve issue ( I don’t think so because it runs every time on starter fluid) then I will look for a carb.

 

[Goober]

Main problem with aftermarket carb is they often don’t fit the throttle or choke cables very well. And the fuel hose may be on the wrong side of the carb.

 

[retro]

...and china carbs rarely work on Hondas. Those that do run, run poorly until the carb fails... which does not take very long. Buying china means you'll be buying again (OEM next time), so unless you are very wealthy you are gonna feel some pain.

 

[Goober]

I just took an aftermarket carb off a quad. the choke cable would bow up but the plunger never moved; the throttle cable had a knot tied in it; the throttle cable nut was 6mm but the carb had a 10mm fitting. That carb turned into a parts donor.

Now, here’s a proper carb for this 92; I’ve seen better, but it ain’t bad.

 

[Boomerstrx250x]

Ok good advice. I’m going to try and buy the same one you showed me I only have 93.43 in my paypal so I hope he accepts my offer.

 

[Goober]

You asked about valves and compression. Well yes you can do a compression test and that’s a great idea.

Let’s get some thoughts from the other members about how to do that. You’re supposed to open the throttle completely (max airflow thru carb) while you’re cranking.
My question is “can you do the compression test with the carb off?” I would think no because you want to replicate the airflow of the assembled system

Hope you get your OEM replacement carb.
Very good! There’s a great tutorial on cleaning and rebuilding carbs here. Have you done it before?
I always start by spraying all the screws with Deep Creep a day or two before I try to take it apart. also like to take the dirty solvent I used on my last carb, and try wash down the outside of the carb to remove all the big particles.