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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled the rear end assembly from the 88 parts bike I got last week. I was supposed to ship it to someone. When I flushed the diff and checked the ring gear a few days ago while on the bike it seemed to look and turn great. Now that I've got it on the bench the shaft seems to bind. It turns freely in both directions a few inches but then binds slightly. You can keep going back and forth and it frees up in that spot until you go 180 degrees and then it binds again. Sound like wheel bearings? I removed the brake drum already, hoping it was just the brakes. There's no play in the pinion or in the axle shaft at the wheels.
 

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open the diff case, have a look at all the teeth on the pinion gear and ring gear, as well as the axle splines. with any luck, all it needs is new bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I can see the ring gear teeth through the fill plug. They look great. I assumed from that info the pinion gear is likely good too. Went back out to the shop and found that it's not really binding, there's just more resistance than there should be. It spins freely the more you work it. I haven't had to do bearing before on these. Guess I need to tackle it though.
 

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I can see the ring gear teeth through the fill plug. They look great. I assumed from that info the pinion gear is likely good too. Went back out to the shop and found that it's not really binding, there's just more resistance than there should be. It spins freely the more you work it. I haven't had to do bearing before on these. Guess I need to tackle it though.
you can not see all of the ring gear teeth with the cover on bro ?..only the outer ends you can see through the filler cap. the pinion gear teeth use up all of the ring gear teeth, not just the ends !. this is why I said to pull the case cover, and have a look, besides, if your gonna replace the bearings ?, you will need to do this anyway :).
 

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before you go tearing any bearings out ?..MAKE SURE YOU CAN GET A REBUILD KIT FOR IT !!!!!!.
 

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My .02 cents... I think its probably a standard case of factory axle runout. Everyone of those axles are slightly bent from the factory. Lay the axle in V-blocks and rotate it by hand and you'll see what I mean. I've never seen an SRA Honda axle that didn't measure having at least .020" of runout and most of them measure between .025" & .030" out.

Other than that it could be a dry wheel bearing contributing. If you suspect a dry bearing you can hit it with a heat gun or a hair dryer to find out... see if that fixes it. If so, repack and ship. :)
 

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I wouldn't put new bearings in there if there isn't play in the ones in there now. Pull the diff, unbolt the case halves, and pull the diff in two (make sure you keep up with the shims and keep them on the ring gear on the same side they're on now).

Clean out the casings and lube those bearings. They've probably been setting up for months if not years. Lube them up good with some gear oil, and grease the bearings in the brake housing and left axle tube, and put it back together. Those factory bearings are better than anything else you're going to get, so if there isn't play in them, clean them out and then re-lube them up and get them spinning freely, and leave them in there.
 

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You can repack those bearings? They look like the sealed kind from the pictures I'm seeing.
you don't repack differential bearings bro, they must be open, and ride in gear oil at all times :).
 
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Yep! But you can flush them (and the diff housing) out good and then put some clean oil in them and I'll bet they roll smoother!

But do repack the brake housing bearing and the left tube bearing with grease.
agreed ^^^^^^^^!!!!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No confusion, Retro. I was talking about the outer wheel bearings. They were rough. Too rough to reuse, especially after I destroyed a pair while pressing them out. One of the inner races had welded itself to the axle shaft. Got new bearings, dust seals and hub oil seals on the way. Haven't pulled apart the differential yet, but it seems fine.
 
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