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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

A video speaks a thousand words: here is a video of what my 350D is doing (link)

As noted in another thread, I did a major rebuild on this machine and as part of the rebuild, did a valve adjustment. Now before the rebuild, I had zero valve noise but the timing was off on this machine. A new timing chain later and countless other pieces, I hope to have fixed that, but now I just have so much valve noise I can't tell anything at the moment.

Valves were adjusted at TDC to fit a 0.003" (0.076mm) feeler gauge at ~16Nm torque, with the gauge barely able to fit the gap when I was done and dragging through. I've tried it with a little bit bigger of a gap than that (where it slid and almost no resistance was felt at all), but neither way makes a difference.

What is with all this clanging guys? I'm concerned because this noise never happened before on this machine!

Please advise, thanks!
 

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Well actually the setting is .08 mm; does your feeler gauge go to .076mm? because mine is stamped 0.08 mm 0.003 inches. If i have two instruments I always use the instrument with the smallest increment which in this case is mm not inches. If your valves are 0.076–tight—that could explain some noise.
When you installed the header did you use the two copper gaskets? Sometimes exhaust leaks sound like valve train rattle
 

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Even if you were off by a few thousandths on your valve clearance there is no way they would be that loud!

Sounds to me like you mustve adjusted these on the wrong stroke. check again to make sure your on compression stroke. the cam lobes should be facing down.

Could be worn out cam journals, but you should've seen this upon disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Goober @Manny - turns out the issue was that when I adjusted to TDC, I was fiddling around too much trying to get the cam into the sprocket by rotating it that i ended up putting in the cam upside-down and jacking up the timing lines. That'll do it every time!

When I fixed that and reset the valves (to 0.003"), she's as quiet as a church mouse.

Now I just need to figure out why she's smoking out of the front of the jug. The exhaust pipe joint nuts are tightened to 30Nm just as the Service manual says, so I don't know why I'm even able to see smoke!

Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
deleted - duplicate post
 

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oil leaking from the front valve set access cover? Flip the gasket over but don’t over tighten those small bolts—only snug!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oil leaking from the front valve set access cover? Flip the gasket over but don’t over tighten those small bolts—only snug!
No - I have white smoke coming from where the the exhaust manifold piping interfaces with the cylinder head. Each pipe is secured via a bracket which slides over two studs and then has two nuts which fasten it down flush against the head.

Turns out, there is a "special way" those studs need to go in - flat-side first. So I removed all of them (which damaged those studs), retapped them (FYI - it's 8mm x 1.25), and I have (4) new studs arriving tomorrow. I also have the (2) new copper washer / seals in there, but they just lay in there (they aren't snug), so I imagine once I tighten everything down that it'll flatten itself out and form the seal that's required.

I'll know for sure in 24 hours!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
She's all fixed and ready to roll! Running like a champion!
149157
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