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First post here. Sorry if its long.

My inlaws have a 1987 Forman 4x4 that has essentially been in a time capsule for o 23 years or so.... My father in law passed away about 10 years ago, and he was the one who knew what was done to it.. Since then it has been riden/used for about 4 hours in total in the last 10 years

I would estimate that this has about 20 hours or so on it in total. It was at a cabin and only used for plowing snow in the winter, The family was at the cabin for 2-3 weekends the entire winter. so you get the idea.

It is complete, all original, and with the exception of the snow plow, no other modifications.

The front headlight that comes off still has the original cable tie holding the extra slack.. and I opened the spare tools kit last week for probably the first time.

Anyway. I know it needs a battery, I put a new one in about 6 years ago and it has since died. I will try to charge it and see if that works.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but want to get some opinions on what I need to do to get it in a better running condition.

I know for a fact, I will need a new spark plug, new air filter element. and will need to change the oil and oil filter. How much oil and what kind would you recommend? Honda dealer stuff, or aftermarket?

I will probably need to take apart and rebuild the carb, new gaskets, float, clean everything real good. etc. I have an 86 honda spree and successfully cleaned the carb on that, so I know what Im doing for the most part.. I have carb dip as well to drop the parts in. (not the rubber ones)

The gas tank is rusted, a decade ago it was not and I left it full hoping that it would prevent some of the rust from forming. In laws rode it, left it half empty and here I am.

Will need to clean the tank, and new fuel filter or two. What would you suggest for cleaning the tank? Im not really into acid baths. Was thinking vinegar and BBs.

What else am I missing here?
and does anyone have torque specs on the nuts which hold the carb to the intake? and for the spark plug?

This thing doesnt leak any oil, or have any other apparent issues. It was stored inside always, and I cant see where any seals have worn or have started to become brittle.

It currently only runs poorly on half choke, and has little to no throttle response. so I am leaning toward at least getting the fuel delivery system operational, and clean, and getting some gas in there from this decade.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I would put a new battery and spark plug in it and take the carb off and clean it good. Change the fuel filter. Put some fresh gas in it. Clean the air filter. I wouldn't worry too much about torquing the carb nuts or spark plug. Just snug them down good, but just don't over tighten them and strip the threads. You can always go back and recheck them and retighten them, if needed. I don't really know how much oil it would hold. Just add a little at a time, until it comes up to the full mark on the dipstick. I would use the Honda brand. (GN4). I can't remember if those models had an oil filter or not. They may have just had the screen on the inside of the block. Check the gear oil in the front and rear diffs. Also, I don't really know what would be best to clean the gas tank out with. It might be hard to get all the rust out. Maybe someone else will have a better answer for you on the tank.
 

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It holds about 3 quarts if memory serves, maybe at bit less. It has an oil filter on the right side of the engine.
 

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Sounds good, I will pick up some oil from the dealer when the parts come in.

The foam part of the air filter is coming unglued. somewhat dirty, and a few mice decided it would be a good place to live for a while.
 

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I usesd steel sling shot BBs which are a little bit bigger that bb gun bbs and carosean(spelling?) it cleaned it well enough that I havent had any problems yet and that was almost two years ago.
 

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I had an 86 and just kept an eye on the filter. If your filter isn't clear/white, replace it with one that is and you can see if it gets real dirty. Could also carry a spare with you just in case. I didn't buy the $25 honda filter, I went to trak auto and bought a $8 filter that fit.
 

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If the tank is rusted pretty bad, try a product called Kreem. It's a 3 stage process and if you follow the instructions religiously it works great. I've done a couple of motorcycle tanks and a few kerosene lanterns that I restored and the stuff seems to last. Google Kreem and there are other products too.
 

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First post here. Sorry if its long.

My inlaws have a 1987 Forman 4x4 that has essentially been in a time capsule for o 23 years or so.... My father in law passed away about 10 years ago, and he was the one who knew what was done to it.. Since then it has been riden/used for about 4 hours in total in the last 10 years

I would estimate that this has about 20 hours or so on it in total. It was at a cabin and only used for plowing snow in the winter, The family was at the cabin for 2-3 weekends the entire winter. so you get the idea.

It is complete, all original, and with the exception of the snow plow, no other modifications.

The front headlight that comes off still has the original cable tie holding the extra slack.. and I opened the spare tools kit last week for probably the first time.

Anyway. I know it needs a battery, I put a new one in about 6 years ago and it has since died. I will try to charge it and see if that works.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but want to get some opinions on what I need to do to get it in a better running condition.

I know for a fact, I will need a new spark plug, new air filter element. and will need to change the oil and oil filter. How much oil and what kind would you recommend? Honda dealer stuff, or aftermarket?

I will probably need to take apart and rebuild the carb, new gaskets, float, clean everything real good. etc. I have an 86 honda spree and successfully cleaned the carb on that, so I know what Im doing for the most part.. I have carb dip as well to drop the parts in. (not the rubber ones)

The gas tank is rusted, a decade ago it was not and I left it full hoping that it would prevent some of the rust from forming. In laws rode it, left it half empty and here I am.

Will need to clean the tank, and new fuel filter or two. What would you suggest for cleaning the tank? Im not really into acid baths. Was thinking vinegar and BBs.

What else am I missing here?
and does anyone have torque specs on the nuts which hold the carb to the intake? and for the spark plug?

This thing doesnt leak any oil, or have any other apparent issues. It was stored inside always, and I cant see where any seals have worn or have started to become brittle.

It currently only runs poorly on half choke, and has little to no throttle response. so I am leaning toward at least getting the fuel delivery system operational, and clean, and getting some gas in there from this decade.

Thanks in advance.
first off..glad to be here with the honda people !..anyway..moving along..you have one rare hard to get your hands on bike...hold onto to it !..it's a rare bike, first off..over haul the carb < new jets will do wonders >..second..you can do the gas tank one or two ways..either take it out..and do the coating thing..or..you can do it the easy way..and take out the drain plug that is in the bottom of it..drain the old gas out..and put fresh in..me..i took my gas tank out all the way..and done a real good cleaning....as far as the oil filter goes..yes..it does have one..right side case..near the kick starter...and it is running poorly on half choke because it needs new jets...sorry..forgot to mention this :)..i use 10w-30 in mine..penzoil works great.., < no need in wasteing money for dealer oil...if your fuel pump is shot..you can forget about getting a new one from the dealer..it's pretty much discontinued..sooo..if you want to make it work..here's what i did..go to advance auto parts store..tell them your looking for a 12v low pressure fuel pump..wfp502 is what you need..should drop right into the same fuel pump bracket < you may need to get longer fuel hose to carb >...sorry for the long repsonse..but..i'm telling you all this..because i just restored my 1989 honda trx350d foreman..and yes..i started with stripping it to the frame..and built her all the way back up..all i'm waitting on is my seat to be recovered..it took me awhile to get parts for this bike..and it is one tough machine !..soo..do yourself a very big favor..hold onto it !..if you got any questions about this bike..please feal free too shoot me a line..i'll be more than happy to answer any questions you have on this bike..as i said..i totally restored mine..new rings..piston..fuel pump..front and rear diff..yeah..took me some time..but..it was well worth every hour !..she's a wonderful bike..honda called her the '' tank'' !
 

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That sucker looks nice bro.
 

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Those machines are tough as nails. The problem, however, as mentioned is that parts are becoming hard to find. It's OK if it's something that can be substituted, like a fuel pump. The problem is that there might be something that can not be substituted and can't be found. If that happens you'll be out of luck.

I had an 86 and sold it last fall because of the growing problem of finding replacement parts. If it's a project machine and you have others, that's one thing. Or, if like in your case you have a hardly used machine, then it may be worth keeping. Just go into it with eyes open.
 

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That sucker looks nice bro.
thanks !..i posted the day i brought her home..and the almost finished picture..as i mentioned..all i need is my seat redone..as mentioned from post above me..yes..IT IS BECOMMING HARDER TO LOCATE PARTS..LOL..soo..if you cant find them..you have to make something work...or...you make it yourself..other than that..she's a tough machine !
 

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I chose to sell my machine while it was still running because I didn't have the interest or time to search for used parts or fabricate something if it broke down on me. But, there's no doubt they are 'bullet proof'.

Here's the one I sold.
 

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I would use Honda oil (GN4). I definitely would not use Penzoil. Every time I have tried to use Penzoil, my clutches start slipping. It has friction modifiers in it. You are not supposed to use oil with friction modifiers in a wet clutch system. This is based on personal experience. It took me 2 or 3 times of destroying the clutch to figure this out. You can use Castrol, though. I have used it and my clutches were fine. I was even told by the Honda dealer that you can use Castrol, but Honda GN4 is recommended. I would spend the $1or $2 extra, if I could, and get the GN4 and not worry about the clutches going out.
 

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Pennsoil makes a atv oil I think.Maybe they meant that.
 

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Pennsoil makes a atv oil I think.Maybe they meant that.
He may have meant that. I was just going by the fact that he said, "no need to spend money on dealer oil". I would say that any ATV oil is just as high as dealer oil, I could be wrong, though. As long as it is for ATVs, you shouldn't have any problems. If it don't say that is for ATVs, I wouldn't use anything but Castrol.

I just didn't want anybody to have the same problems with the clutches that I did.
 

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I only use castrol but they don't make an atv oil.Wish they did.Well they do but it doesn't say anything about wet clutch protection.So I use Amsoil.
 

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I only use castrol but they don't make an atv oil.Wish they did.Well they do but it doesn't say anything about wet clutch protection.So I use Amsoil.
Regular Castrol will work fine in an ATV. I have used it a lot, but I would rather use ATV oil. Seems like every time I need oil, it is late or on a Sunday and the local Honda dealer is closed. If they are closed, that's when I use Castrol. The local Honda dealer even told me you could use Castrol.

The funny thing is, you know how you have to soak the new fiber clutch discs in engine oil, before you install them. Well, every time I used Penzoil and the clutches went out, I would soak them in Penzoil and install them. A couple days later, my clutches would start slipping again. So, I couldn't figure it out. It took me 2 or 3 times replacing the clutch discs, before I figured it out and the only reason that I figured it out was that I asked the guys at the Honda dealer. As soon as I told them about my problem, they knew what I had done. That's when they told me to use GN4 Honda oil or that I could also use Castrol. They told me I could use either one, but no other kind, unless it was an ATV oil.

Another funny thing is that before they started making 4-wheelers in 1984, I rode dirtbikes a lot. I've probably owned, at least 50 dirtbikes, and back then, I never used Honda oil or anything like that. All I ever used was different kinds of automotive oils. I don't think I ever had a problem with my clutches slipping or going out. I can't figure that out, unless they weren't putting the additives in the oils back then.
 

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Probably not.Thats a different era.Oil didn't seem as important then I guess.
 

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umm..nooo..i meant reg penzoil..been using it in every 4 wheeler i've restored..never had any problems or bikes comming back for clutches slipping..but..i will ask my main honda mechanic if it does in fact hurt the clutch..soo..for now..i'll keep you posted..i haven't rode my rebuilt bike yet..soo..for now i'm safe...lol..i need to change the oil anyway..i've ran her for testing..but not hard riding yet..but..i'm glad you mentioned this topic..i will in fact find out from my honda mechanic buddy before i ever take her out for a hard ride..thanks for the tip :)
 

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I'm glad someone told me a while back to.
 
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